Mirror disassembly?

buze

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So, should I be able to disassemble the mirror unit? I've taken it out, but it's *completely* seized, no amount of brute force wants to rotate it, let alone attempt at disassembling it!

How to proceed? I'd love to have in 2 bits to help cleanup and painting... I think I saw @Sean d had his disassemble prior to priming...

 

Sean d

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Yes it should twist out, that mirror looks in really good condition, get plenty of freeing oil on there and maybe apply some heat via a hotgun
 

Sean d

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You could also try to jar it free by tapping with a small drift on the metal interior part
 

t-tony

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I read somewhere that you really need the mirror fixed to a door to be able to rotate it.

Tony.
 

mrscalex

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To dismantle it the starloc will have to come off.

If it's seized you can dremmel a relief slot in the outer collar to get the stem out. The slot allows the collar to flex just enough to free the shaft.

If the pin won't cone out you'll have to drill it with a 10mm drill bit.

Have done both successfully. The slot doesn't affect reassembly.
 

g8jka

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I read somewhere that you really need the mirror fixed to a door to be able to rotate it.

Tony.
You can rotate them off the car, but you need arms like Popeye! If they were stiff trying to rotate them on the car then there is not a lot of hope doing it off the car.
 

mrscalex

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There is also a very realistic chance of snapping if it appears seized.

The reason so many break isn't spontaneous destruction. They get a glancing blow off a passing car, the mirror can't flex as it's seized, so it snaps. That's also why it's more often than not driver's side people want.

I think people often choose to spray still assembled. Slotting and in particular drilling the pin out is not for the faint hearted.

You will also need to source replacement starloc and pin possibly.
 

mrscalex

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Btw. You know you got to use acid etch for the first coat? And make sure you wear protection as it's nasty stuff.
 

buze

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Yeah I already practiced with etch primer outside on another bit...

For that mirror, might be quicker to buy a replacement aftermarket one really. given the time already spent on it, and ti's nowhere near ready to pain, and I can't even unlock it. I'm all for 'all OEM' but I still value my time :)
 

mrscalex

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Yeah I already practiced with etch primer outside on another bit...

For that mirror, might be quicker to buy a replacement aftermarket one really. given the time already spent on it, and ti's nowhere near ready to pain, and I can't even unlock it. I'm all for 'all OEM' but I still value my time :)
Maybe. The German who does the plastic ones will sell you them in various states. From arm only, to arm and base, to fully assembled and painted base in your choice of colour. He will also supply the pins, springs and starlocs separately for rebuilds.

You might get £50 for your mirror as it stands.

Personally I'd have to persevere. I lost count of how many hours I spent doing my first one. But there was a lot of learning there and the next was quicker. I can't walk away from a challenge like that!
 

mrscalex

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I'll see if I can find the post showing you how to do the dremmel cut. It's not difficult but needs a deep breath. It's very clever and I wished I'd thought of it.

I used the same method to get my exhaust manifold to system studs out. Something that normally needs an oxy-acetylene torch.

The drilling out - if you need it, I did figure myself as no how to for that I'm aware of. I just drilled carefully and straight.
 

Davyhoogy

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I have both German fibreglass replacements and I'm terrified to fold them. They're taking far too much effort, more than I'd like to use.
Never been able to fold them.
 

mrscalex

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I forgot I contributed to that thread. It's a reminder I used a 12mm bit to drill out not 10mm.
 

gookah

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I separated mine by cutting through the locking washer.



then I got some new ones from eBay


and with a long bolt (that was small enough to go through the mirror mounting sleeve) a nut, and small collar I was able to re-assemble


By tightening the nut and bolt and the collar pushed the new lock washer into position









 

buze

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@gookah fantastic post and pics, thanks for that! So I just need to dremmel that washer out and it should me (it DOES move, about 1/2mm when I .... persuade it with a hammer)

Small question: M13 starlock washer don't seem to exist on ebay..?!?!? I can find 12, 14 in countless quantities, but not 13!
 

t-tony

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If he collar/sleeve is 13mm. dia. the groove where the"clip" fits will likely be 12mm.

Tony.
 

mrscalex

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@gookah fantastic post and pics, thanks for that! So I just need to dremmel that washer out and it should me (it DOES move, about 1/2mm when I .... persuade it with a hammer)

Small question: M13 starlock washer don't seem to exist on ebay..?!?!? I can find 12, 14 in countless quantities, but not 13!
Cutting the starloc off is step 1. And if you are lucky it will be the only step - if the arm stem is not seized.

If it is seized you are into the relief slot. And possibly drilling out the pin.
 

mrscalex

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If he collar/sleeve is 13mm. dia. the groove where the"clip" fits will likely be 12mm.

Tony.
I drilled the pin out with a 12mm bit. That left a very thin wall which then collapsed in. So an M12 sounds about right.
 

buze

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@mrscalex (and actually, *everyone else*) thanks as well for your input, and the thread related to cutting the axis side...

I'm /fairly/ sure I should be ok once the washer is cut, the two parts move a little bit, given enough persuasion. won't rotate, but they 'rock' a bit, so they are not entirely seized. Seriously that mirror assembly is both completely overbuilt AND fragile at the same time, hard to beat :)

Anyway, I'm glad I planned a bit longer than a few hours for that job ;-) Also had to repair the inside of the door card that has been 'pulled' bit too carelessly before, and superglue&clamp some of the leather trim.
 
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