Lowering isnt lower?

t-tony said:
The next time you have a rear shocker removed, before you fit the new one to the top mounting try bolting it to the lower mounting sticking out the back, level to the ground, and tighten the bolt. Lift on the other end, as high as it will go, release it and see what happens.

Tony.
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Ok I get that but that's extreme Tony and you wouldn't do that, we are talking fractions of possible misalignment in a rubberised mounting system that's designed to move . But point made, don't think I will worry about it too much. But thanks for the explanation. :thumbsup:
 
I have to agree Niall, a rear shocker mounting is not a good example. It was just a way of explaining. Some years ago I made this point regarding bushes in a lower suspension arm where you can get in the region of 40 degrees of movement, and these definitely do need to be "locked" at the centre of the swing to prevent premature tearing off the rubber.

Tony.
 
Like tony says, it's all to do with the rubber bush at the bottom of the shock. If you tighten it while the suspension is at full droop, when you get to the normal ride height there'll be a built-in twist to the bush, and it'll wind up destroying the bush. Whereas if you drive the car over a few bumps and settle the suspension down first it'll be at the midway point of it's movement and will be much happier. But if people insist on doing it wrong, let 'em, I say, just means more work for a proper mechanic eventually.:thumbsup:
 
I fit the shock absorber with the arms hanging but leave the bottom mount just a bit loose. When the car is back on the ground there's room to reach under and tighten up that bottom bolt.
 
The hardest ones to do are the rear arms.

With the spring off and the damper disconnected, I jack up the rear hub until it is at the correct height, then tighten the nuts on the bolts. Most people would tighten the bolt on the nut, as that is easier - but it's the wrong way to do it.

Carefully, press the rear arm down to accept the spring. The alternative is to try to work around the spring to tighten the rear arm nuts whilst the suspension is loaded.

Jack the hub back up to the correct height to allow the damper bolt to freely screw into the hub until it is just a bit more than finger tight.

Tighten the damper bolt to the correct torque when the car is on the ground and suspension is settled.

I can afford the time to do it properly. A normal garage mechanic would just horse the bolts up in any way to ratchet-gun-tight and chuck it out the door, and very few would even notice.
 
Pingu said:
I can afford the time to do it properly. A normal garage mechanic would just horse the bolts up in any way to ratchet-gun-tight and chuck it out the door, and very few would even notice.
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Same as pretty much every tyre shop. They put the wheels on and waz the bolts in with their heavy duty air gun to f'in-much-tightness. Then make a show of pointlessly clicking each one with a torque wrench
 
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