Loom of doom

Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
0192DB57-E300-446F-8483-F107532C46C9.jpeg
This arrived today so I will be busy this weekend.
How easy is this to fit? Are there any videos I can look at?
 

colb

Zorg Guru (V)
British Zeds
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Points
178
Location
Newport, South Wales,UK
Model of Z
Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
Should be easy to do, strip back old loom and cut out bad bit and fit new loom between to two cut ends. I see these are crimp connectors, personally I would have gone for soldering the joints and shrink wrapping each individual wire.
I repaired another members loom and managed to just cut out the bad part, there was enough slack to rejoin by soldering the joints, rewrapped the loom when completed with some plastic split wiring conduit secured with cable ties.
 

Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
Should be easy to do, strip back old loom and cut out bad bit and fit new loom between to two cut ends. I see these are crimp connectors, personally I would have gone for soldering the joints and shrink wrapping each individual wire.
I repaired another members loom and managed to just cut out the bad part, there was enough slack to rejoin by soldering the joints, rewrapped the loom when completed with some plastic split wiring conduit secured with cable ties.
Thanks for the advice. I will solder them as you suggest as it sounds like a more secure join.
 

colb

Zorg Guru (V)
British Zeds
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Points
178
Location
Newport, South Wales,UK
Model of Z
Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)

Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
Thanks again..... I will order some of those.
I love this forum!!!
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
Is that the genuine BMW repair part or a 3rd party one? Mind me asking how much?

I repaired my LoD recently with solder, shrink tubes, and TESA tape. The broken wires kept blowing the central locking fuse. Full functionality now restored (unsurprisingly)
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E8945280-2679-487F-BB9B-42B828F6E45C.jpeg
D7B6B215-E708-42F4-923E-D1735D7E2EE1.jpeg
 

colb

Zorg Guru (V)
British Zeds
Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Points
178
Location
Newport, South Wales,UK
Model of Z
Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
Looks like third party replacement loom to me, your breaks looked preety clean and bright copper, the one I repaired was quite bad with green gunge on the wires and dull copper strands, had to cut back to find clean copper so the solder would stick. This is a classic fault for our Z's. Over time the loom fatigues hence the breaks. Most common symptom is the central locking playing up when the breaks happen causing wires to short out with each other. Replacement loom should last a fair amount of time before it breaks down again due to fatigue.
 

Dalek

Zorg Guru (III)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Points
145
Location
Highworth, Wiltshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.2i Auto
Is that the genuine BMW repair part or a 3rd party one? Mind me asking how much?

I repaired my LoD recently with solder, shrink tubes, and TESA tape. The broken wires kept blowing the central locking fuse. Full functionality now restored (unsurprisingly)
View attachment 103227 View attachment 103229 View attachment 103231
It is a 3rd party one by Vemo. Found it on eBay for £32.99 plus £5 postage. Posted from Latvia.
A bit expensive, but looks to be good quality.
 

Jack Ratt

Zorg Expert (I)
Supporter
British Zeds
The West Country
Joined
Dec 3, 2013
Points
200
Location
TRURO, CORNWALL
Model of Z
2.8i AUTO and 2.8i MANUAL
When I did my repair I modded the grommet where the wires go into the boot. Now I haven't got such a tight bend when I close the boot lid.
 

Mario

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jun 18, 2014
Points
95
That's the loom that I recommended and the one I was going to fit to mine but I ended up repairing mine with extra cables, I agree with the recommendation to solder the joints - the only thing you need to be aware of is that (if I remember correctly) the sensor for the boot light switch and another lock sensor share the same wire colors, please make sure you don't get them confused - I think you get two cables for the 3rd brake light, two thicker cables for the power lock actuator - another thin pair for the boot lock position sensor and one last pair for the boot light switch
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
The bit I repaired on mine is now stiffer and thicker (ooo-err) at the critical point where it passes through the clip due to the extra solder and shrink wrap there. I daresay it's now stronger and should last longer than the original as the loom now hardly moves when opening the boot. The bit where it passes through the clip is now in a sort of semi-permanent kink, i.e. there seems to be less rubbing/contact with the clip compared to before
 

t-tony

The Legend
Deceased
Supporter
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
If the loom ends up thicker and stiffer you'll likely just have moved the "bend point" of the wires and it could end up breaking again in less time than the original one.
By fitting a longer repair section and moving the joints further apart will give the loom it's original flexibility and lessen the likelihood of breakage. (This advice given by a very experienced Auto Electrician I might add.)

Tony.
 

DrWong

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 8, 2017
Points
125
Model of Z
3.0i
I can see that, good point Tony. Although if the 'bend point' has indeed moved somewhere else, it wouldn't be rubbing against the plastic clip which was the original cause of failure.?

Time will tell, although if/when it goes again I'll just chop in a replacement section.
 
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