Do you have a link to the leds please
Little MAU
- Thread starter Clockwatcher
- Start date
Sean,
Of course: LEDs: https://www.rapidonline.com/4-8mm-low-profile?Attributes={"Forward Voltage Typical":["12V"]}
Order Code: 55-2878
MPN: OSW4G456F1A
Of course: LEDs: https://www.rapidonline.com/4-8mm-low-profile?Attributes={"Forward Voltage Typical":["12V"]}
Order Code: 55-2878
MPN: OSW4G456F1A
My next post is going to be how to strip apart the AC and recycle air switch assembly to change the bulbs for LEDs....
AC and Recycle Switch: LED Upgrade.
Both bulbs had blown, so it was either replace with filament bulbs, or LEDs. LEDs won, so I used the same ones as the HVAC, 12V white LEDS with inbuilt current limiting resistors.
If you do this, make sure you do it slow and methodically, there are a lot of small parts that tend to fly off as you dismantle, modify and then reassemble. So, for a switch that is currently £120 from a dealer, be careful! Take lots of pictures, make notes, or ensure you have a good memory!
The 2nd orange condom (it makes the filament bulb glow BMW orange) broke when i tried to remove it! Smallest condom I have ever broken!
PS, its in the top left of the picture below, its brother survived. I will save that one for later!
When you pull the bulbs out, be firm but gentle as the bulbs easily break. To replace my broken plastic condom I used plastic orange sheet and inserted discs cut to size inside both buttons. The grey bulb holder holes which are too small for the LED's legs, so they had to be opened up with a pin (the bulb holders holes, not the LED's legs!
). Note the orientation of the LED when you put it in. I marked the -ve (cathode) with a black pen. When you trim the legs then bend them over, look for the very small indents on the grey bulb holder, ensure these are the sides you bend the wires into as they form a "bump" which ensures the bulb holder and LED is held firmly in the switch body when inserted.
I placed the white body on a small metal post when I pushed the LED and bulb holder back inside. This ensures you do not accidentally force the bulb holder retaining clips and contacts out from bottom. Orientate the LED -ve to the same side as the smallest (copper coloured) spring, which I had also marked with a black line. If the small spring falls out, the picture shows the orientation of the curved part of the wire for insertion.
If you succeeded, applying ground to pin 6 and +12V to pins 2 and 8 should prove your LED upgrade / modification works before you reinsert it into the car.
Parts:
LEDs: https://www.rapidonline.com/4-8mm-low-profile?Attributes={"Forward Voltage Typical":["12V"]}
Order Code: 55-2878
MPN: OSW4G456F1A
UPDATE: The LEDs are too bright. I will either have to limit the current, place a filter in button cap or source LEDs with a lower luminosity.
Both bulbs had blown, so it was either replace with filament bulbs, or LEDs. LEDs won, so I used the same ones as the HVAC, 12V white LEDS with inbuilt current limiting resistors.
If you do this, make sure you do it slow and methodically, there are a lot of small parts that tend to fly off as you dismantle, modify and then reassemble. So, for a switch that is currently £120 from a dealer, be careful! Take lots of pictures, make notes, or ensure you have a good memory!
The 2nd orange condom (it makes the filament bulb glow BMW orange) broke when i tried to remove it! Smallest condom I have ever broken!
PS, its in the top left of the picture below, its brother survived. I will save that one for later!
When you pull the bulbs out, be firm but gentle as the bulbs easily break. To replace my broken plastic condom I used plastic orange sheet and inserted discs cut to size inside both buttons. The grey bulb holder holes which are too small for the LED's legs, so they had to be opened up with a pin (the bulb holders holes, not the LED's legs!
). Note the orientation of the LED when you put it in. I marked the -ve (cathode) with a black pen. When you trim the legs then bend them over, look for the very small indents on the grey bulb holder, ensure these are the sides you bend the wires into as they form a "bump" which ensures the bulb holder and LED is held firmly in the switch body when inserted.
I placed the white body on a small metal post when I pushed the LED and bulb holder back inside. This ensures you do not accidentally force the bulb holder retaining clips and contacts out from bottom. Orientate the LED -ve to the same side as the smallest (copper coloured) spring, which I had also marked with a black line. If the small spring falls out, the picture shows the orientation of the curved part of the wire for insertion.
If you succeeded, applying ground to pin 6 and +12V to pins 2 and 8 should prove your LED upgrade / modification works before you reinsert it into the car.
Parts:
LEDs: https://www.rapidonline.com/4-8mm-low-profile?Attributes={"Forward Voltage Typical":["12V"]}
Order Code: 55-2878
MPN: OSW4G456F1A
UPDATE: The LEDs are too bright. I will either have to limit the current, place a filter in button cap or source LEDs with a lower luminosity.
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Nice work!
Have no idea the 12v LED exists! I thought the only voltage is 2and 3v...
A little bit jealous on the condition of your Zed's body...
Have no idea the 12v LED exists! I thought the only voltage is 2and 3v...
A little bit jealous on the condition of your Zed's body...
Zeti,
Many thanks for your kind words.
LEDs are normally the voltages you mentioned, typically 1.8V to 2.5V, with slight variations for the exotic materials they use. The 12 V LED is just a normal LED, the "extra" voltage is taken by a resistor which is inside the LED's body. It is usually called a current limiting resistor due to its primary function, which is to prevent too much current flowing in an LED and destroying it.
Internal resistors saves space as you don't need to solder an external resistor on. You can get higher values LEDs too!
Many thanks for your kind words.
LEDs are normally the voltages you mentioned, typically 1.8V to 2.5V, with slight variations for the exotic materials they use. The 12 V LED is just a normal LED, the "extra" voltage is taken by a resistor which is inside the LED's body. It is usually called a current limiting resistor due to its primary function, which is to prevent too much current flowing in an LED and destroying it.
Internal resistors saves space as you don't need to solder an external resistor on. You can get higher values LEDs too!
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Excelent!
Because of this operation (solder external resistor ) i was always frustrated when i intended to replace bulbs with LED.
Now i know and i know what to ask in the shop , or at least what to ask them to bring for sale!
Thank you again!
That makes a forum brilliant! You never stop learning!
...and i love working on small pieces mechanisms...
Dan
Because of this operation (solder external resistor ) i was always frustrated when i intended to replace bulbs with LED.
Now i know and i know what to ask in the shop , or at least what to ask them to bring for sale!
Thank you again!
That makes a forum brilliant! You never stop learning!
...and i love working on small pieces mechanisms...
Dan
Zeti,
This is a range of coloured LEDS and available in different voltages. For these LEDs, you only need a current limiting resistor for the 2V versions. There are many other makes available from different companies.
https://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/1297108_da_en_01.pdf (For these LEDs, it looks like you may also be able to remove the coloured cap to save on space.)
Website: https://www.rapidonline.com
The difficulty in choosing LEDs is they measure brightness and viewing angles in different ways. So if you are trying to match them to your other car lights there can a be a lot of trial and error.
This is a range of coloured LEDS and available in different voltages. For these LEDs, you only need a current limiting resistor for the 2V versions. There are many other makes available from different companies.
https://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/1297108_da_en_01.pdf (For these LEDs, it looks like you may also be able to remove the coloured cap to save on space.)
Website: https://www.rapidonline.com
The difficulty in choosing LEDs is they measure brightness and viewing angles in different ways. So if you are trying to match them to your other car lights there can a be a lot of trial and error.
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I've really enjoyed reading this thread, and just need to research a little bit more before having a crack at this.
Automatic Gear Shift Wiring
The picture below shows a coiled wire which distributes power to an LED in the gear shift. The LED lights up PRND321. Unfortunately, age, wear and tear or some other factor has caused the insulation to start breaking down. It is unlikely to cause a fire, I would hope a fuse would blow first, but its better to be safe than sorry. As a replacement wire, I used the 12V cable of an old power transformer.
The cable was slightly larger in diameter and was three core (yet the power supply was a 12V DC lead!) and straight. I wound it tightly on a metal rod then heated it gently to try and encourage the cable to take on a coiled form. I cut back the uninsulated 3rd wire and just used the black and red wires for the rewire.
Because the plastic is old and potentially brittle, care had to be take in dismantling the mechanism. Gentle pressure will allow you to pop the black rectangle which houses the PRND321 LED from its tracks. All the lights are LEDs, so no replacing old filament bulbs. I marked out the -ve and +ve terminals on the PCB and the existing LED to ensure I soldered the right joints to the red and black wires. Ensuring the new wire coil did not foul the SEM switch when you move the selector is also important. In this case tightening the coil around the metal shaft worked perfectly.
Job done!
The picture below shows a coiled wire which distributes power to an LED in the gear shift. The LED lights up PRND321. Unfortunately, age, wear and tear or some other factor has caused the insulation to start breaking down. It is unlikely to cause a fire, I would hope a fuse would blow first, but its better to be safe than sorry. As a replacement wire, I used the 12V cable of an old power transformer.
The cable was slightly larger in diameter and was three core (yet the power supply was a 12V DC lead!) and straight. I wound it tightly on a metal rod then heated it gently to try and encourage the cable to take on a coiled form. I cut back the uninsulated 3rd wire and just used the black and red wires for the rewire.
Because the plastic is old and potentially brittle, care had to be take in dismantling the mechanism. Gentle pressure will allow you to pop the black rectangle which houses the PRND321 LED from its tracks. All the lights are LEDs, so no replacing old filament bulbs. I marked out the -ve and +ve terminals on the PCB and the existing LED to ensure I soldered the right joints to the red and black wires. Ensuring the new wire coil did not foul the SEM switch when you move the selector is also important. In this case tightening the coil around the metal shaft worked perfectly.
Job done!
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Thanks Jjim,
I used Tesa Fabric Tape sourced from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B012NSYH5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It makes the loom look a lot tidier and gives it a bit of protection. It should also help minimize noise from cables hitting panels. I blame another forum member, when I saw their posts of their wiring looms in fabric tape it triggered a "I must do that too" in my small brain.
I used Tesa Fabric Tape sourced from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B012NSYH5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It makes the loom look a lot tidier and gives it a bit of protection. It should also help minimize noise from cables hitting panels. I blame another forum member, when I saw their posts of their wiring looms in fabric tape it triggered a "I must do that too" in my small brain.
Might have been my old post - https://zroadster.org/threads/jims-z3-journey.19286/page-8
I can't stand all the wires going everywhere, bit of fabric tape does wonders
Hardtop Derust!
The hardtop we bought was in excellent condition and came with the fitting kit and demister switch. For some unexplained reason, when I was gummi pflege'ing the Hardtop's rubber seals, I decided to take them off to give them a good going over. I am glad I did:
The roof itself is fibreglass, but the rails the rubber seals sit in are metal. I can find no stock number for the rails, and no recognisable part number is stamped on them. So ensuring they last is paramount. (Update, The rails may be available after all: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CH72-EUR-08-1998-Z3-BMW-Z3_19&diagId=54_0204 Thanks to @Mazza for posting that link in @ZedHead's thread: https://zroadster.org/threads/for-the-love-of-my-zed-novice-vs-car.24769/page-10#post-422017)
The side ones can be removed, although the screws were very tight. The rear rail has some form of fitting that looks partially like a rivet or security bolt. I did not want to force its removal for fear of causing damage to the rail or Hardtop, therefore I left the rear rail in place for treatment.
Warning, occasionally cats may think Z3 Hardtops are cat baskets!
After treatment with Bilt Hamber https://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/hydrate-80 the parts were refitted.
If you have a hard top, it may be worth checking. The seals are easy to remove and refit.
The hardtop we bought was in excellent condition and came with the fitting kit and demister switch. For some unexplained reason, when I was gummi pflege'ing the Hardtop's rubber seals, I decided to take them off to give them a good going over. I am glad I did:
The roof itself is fibreglass, but the rails the rubber seals sit in are metal. I can find no stock number for the rails, and no recognisable part number is stamped on them. So ensuring they last is paramount. (Update, The rails may be available after all: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CH72-EUR-08-1998-Z3-BMW-Z3_19&diagId=54_0204 Thanks to @Mazza for posting that link in @ZedHead's thread: https://zroadster.org/threads/for-the-love-of-my-zed-novice-vs-car.24769/page-10#post-422017)
The side ones can be removed, although the screws were very tight. The rear rail has some form of fitting that looks partially like a rivet or security bolt. I did not want to force its removal for fear of causing damage to the rail or Hardtop, therefore I left the rear rail in place for treatment.
Warning, occasionally cats may think Z3 Hardtops are cat baskets!
After treatment with Bilt Hamber https://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/hydrate-80 the parts were refitted.
If you have a hard top, it may be worth checking. The seals are easy to remove and refit.
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Well spotted
A Rattle From the Parking Brakes
We had heard a rattle on an occasional basis from the rear, but we could never pin it down. My brother in law, a garage technician with over 40 years under his belt, knew exactly what it was. The parking brake shoes and handbrake cable needed adjusted!
TIS Instructions: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...manuals/34-brakes/34-41-parking-brake/A8cePiq
Things to note:
1. I have an automatic, so I made sure it was in neutral before I started otherwise I would have had difficulty turning the rear wheels.
2. The alignment of the wheel and toothed adjuster is closer to the top, the picture below shows the left wheel. The right wheel is similar, but to the left of the vertical line.
3. This picture below shows the toothed adjuster you are trying to rotate with a screw driver. Pelican Parts' website has a better image: https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Ebrake_Adjustment/pic5.jpg
4. The diagram above from TIS shows the direction you move the screwdriver, not the direction of turning the toothed adjuster. Direction "a" is to initially lock the left rear wheel, direction "b" is to initially lock the right rear wheel.
5. Instead of the special tool 34 1 030 to loosen and tighten the cables I used a 9mm socket and a 12mm spanner.
Hopefully the rattle is now gone for good.
We had heard a rattle on an occasional basis from the rear, but we could never pin it down. My brother in law, a garage technician with over 40 years under his belt, knew exactly what it was. The parking brake shoes and handbrake cable needed adjusted!
TIS Instructions: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...manuals/34-brakes/34-41-parking-brake/A8cePiq
Things to note:
1. I have an automatic, so I made sure it was in neutral before I started otherwise I would have had difficulty turning the rear wheels.
2. The alignment of the wheel and toothed adjuster is closer to the top, the picture below shows the left wheel. The right wheel is similar, but to the left of the vertical line.
3. This picture below shows the toothed adjuster you are trying to rotate with a screw driver. Pelican Parts' website has a better image: https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Ebrake_Adjustment/pic5.jpg
4. The diagram above from TIS shows the direction you move the screwdriver, not the direction of turning the toothed adjuster. Direction "a" is to initially lock the left rear wheel, direction "b" is to initially lock the right rear wheel.
5. Instead of the special tool 34 1 030 to loosen and tighten the cables I used a 9mm socket and a 12mm spanner.
Hopefully the rattle is now gone for good.
Grill or Not to Grill?
After seeing @Sean d's grill on his latest project, and then seeing them in the flesh at @t-tony's September drive, we bought one. My main reason was to protect the radiator from stones, the fact it looks great is a secondary effect.
Because the car is silver, a chrome finish would have been too bright across the large gap, so we chose black. (Do not mention the fact the kidney grills are chrome, that does not count!) It arrived within a couple of days ordering and the fit and finish are high quality. The radiator is now officially safe from stones.
After seeing @Sean d's grill on his latest project, and then seeing them in the flesh at @t-tony's September drive, we bought one. My main reason was to protect the radiator from stones, the fact it looks great is a secondary effect
. Because the car is silver, a chrome finish would have been too bright across the large gap, so we chose black. (Do not mention the fact the kidney grills are chrome, that does not count!) It arrived within a couple of days ordering and the fit and finish are high quality. The radiator is now officially safe from stones.