Little MAU

[Clockwatcher]

Introducing Little Mau

After many years of my good lady asking for a convertible and looking at various options from different manufacturers, we bought a Z3. Although she initially wanted a TT or MX5, the minute she finished test driving MAU her first words to the dealer was "So, lets talk money!". Being a long time BMW owner, this was music to my ears.

After a week of enjoying her it was time to ensure she was protected for the many years we intend to keep her. The content on ZRoadster has proved valuable in the progress we have made to date.

So, first job first, how rusty was she......

Removing sills: https://zroadster.org/articles/bmw-z3-sill-removal-and-protection.67/ (thanks Gaz)

 

[Jack Ratt]

Looks like she just rolled off the production line. I assume she's a Japanese import? They don't put salt on their roads so cars come here looking like new underneath

 

[roadvoyager1]

Looks in great condition. Get it put back together and drive it!!
Apply rust protection to the sill and wings before the winter and the car will be good for many years.

 

[Clockwatcher]

A Wee Bit of Rust Proofing

Thanks for the kind comments. She is Japanese, late 1999 with 48500 miles on the clock when we picked her up. Although there are a few stone chips and minor scratches, she looks like she was well cared for.

Carried out rust proofing using Bilt Hamber products. This included the inside of the outer sills, front and rear quarter panels and box sections.

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/

 

[Clockwatcher]

Rust Removal for the Spare Wheel

As for the spare wheel, it still had the original tyre from the factory! Although it showed the only slightest hint of crazing in the rubber, it was definitely past its sell by date and needed replaced. The wheel itself was in reasonable condition.

 

[Clockwatcher]

And a New Spare Tyre

So, a new spare tyre, and rust treated. Any tips of a good quality paint to finish the job? Finish is not priority for the spare wheel, but long term protection is.

 

[t-tony]

Hi @Clockwatcher welcome from near Lincoln. Many people ditch the spare wheel on a Z3 and prefer to carry an aerosol of tyre sealant and a 12v compressor (the only option with a Z4). The car looks in very good condition corrosion wise. Where are you located?

Tony.

 

[Clockwatcher]

Hi @t-tony, Lincoln, so not too far from you.

CW

 

[t-tony]

Hi @t-tony, Lincoln, so not too far from you.

CW

A local, good news mate. If you're passing call in and say hello.

Tony.

ps. If you fancy coming to this please let me know.

https://zroadster.org/threads/september-2nd-2018-something-will-be-happening.19945/

 

[Clockwatcher]

Cheers Tony. Is there a cut off date for putting names down for a place? CW

 

[t-tony]

No not really as an odd meal won't be an issue at the White Swan.

Tony.

 

[Clockwatcher]

The panels are back on... with new rubber at all four corners.

 

[Clockwatcher]

Fitting a Hard Top Demister Switch and Tidying the Wiring

However, in a bid to put the hard top demister switch in the rear of the center console, I got carried away.... I blame another user on the forums for putting their OCD cable husbandry idea in my head.... I wonder who it was?

I have deliberately not tightened down the top wood panel which has left a temporary gap. It has a slight warp I need to sort out first.

Removing the center console: https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/te...cement/97-BODY-Center_Console_Replacement.htm

NOTE: There are a few differences on my car (Facelift, late 1999)

1. Removing the HVAC is a different process, Pelican Parts figures 18 and 19, which I will document elsewhere and place a link in here.
2. I did not have the driver knee support, figures 3, 4 and 5.
3. My OBD plug is under the driver's knee trim panel, this will need to be removed.
4. I had a large green gong (BMW speak for warning sounder/speaker) in the same place as the OBD socket in the Pelican Part's figure 22, you will need to unplug this

 

[Clockwatcher]

Fitting a New Radio and Modifying the Locating Pin

The radio was a BMW C33, cassette player. Unfortunately the stereo was made for the Japanese market so the FM range only went up to 90 MHz rather than 108 MHz we use in the UK.

We decided to change the radio rather than fit a bluetooth/DAB adapter, choosing a Pioneer DEH X8700DAB. Normally £200, but for some reason you can get it from Half*rds for £120!! All you need is a harness adapter, DAB antenna and an aerial adapter. It will runs DAB, FM, CD, Bluetooth (phone and music) USB (music) and Aux. And for audiophiles, it will play Flac files too. Synched to our phones simply and easily, and they are not iPhones or Androids! It will auto dim when put the lights on and it does not look to flashy. The chrome volume/control matches the chrome rings on the HVAC and computer.

Most importantly, all the display colours can be adapted to match BMW orange perfectly! Unfortunately the night shot is not good. Plus I need to replace the HVAC bulbs. I plan on doing a DIY LED retrofit for these by making new ones using the old bulb holders.

The one modification made was to take the rear locating pin out of the old radio and transfer it. Luckily the heatsink unbolts from the Pioneer allowing me to safely drill and tap a screw hole for the locating bolt. If you do this, be careful you do not damage anything on your radio! The new radio fits perfectly and securely at the front and rear. (The first picture is borrowed from the Internet, I forgot to take a pic of the old radio).

CW

 

[Clockwatcher]

Replacing Door Handle Gaskets

Replaced the door handle gaskets seals. The old one literally fell apart as I removed them. I obtained the handle seals from Ebay rather than pay BMW for a new handle surround plus the gasket. Before putting the new rubber gasket in place I made sure to pre soak in Nextzett Gummi Pfledge.

Handle gaskets: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-STOCK-X2-Door-Handle-Gasket-Rubber-Seals-for-BMW-E36-E34-E32-Z3-3-5-7-Series/401362983748?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Nextzett Gummi Pfledge: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gummi-Pfle...020517&sr=8-2&keywords=Nextzett+Gummi+Pfledge
How to get the door handle surround off (and on): http://www.eatsleeptinker.com/2015/01/14/e36-door-handle-trim-replacement/ (thanks Chad)

 

[Clockwatcher]

I have started to add links to my installments so I can give credit to the sources I have used. Moderators, if I have unwittingly transgressed any rules, my apologies.

 

[Clockwatcher]

New Foils Sir?

The foils for protecting the body when you close the bonnet were becoming worn. I ordered new ones from BMW Sopers for around £5 (and a billy bonus, you get 2 left and 2 right in the pack!)

51148410661 - LEFT PROTECTION FOIL
51148410662 - RIGHT PROTECTION FOIL
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...-1999-Z3-BMW-Z3_28&diagId=41_0036#51148410661

It was a pain removing them. I used label remover and a plastic trim removal tool. Instead of repainting the worn area I used Bilt Hamber HYDRATE 80 to form a protective barrier.

 

[Clockwatcher]

HVAC Bulb Replacement: But With LEDs!

It was time to replace the pesky lamps in the HVAC, but I was not prepared to pay silly prices for a plug with a soldered in bulb.

Plus, maybe LEDs are the way forward. So, I sourced white 12V LEDs, the resistors are built in, identified which was the ground wire on the car sockets, its brown and white, and went to work.

The pictures below are the 3 versions of mod, first version was cutting away to reveal the soldered connection to finally deciding that you can pull the pins out one side, then remove the bulb from the other. The bulb plug on the left shows the final version. I have also shown the one bulb I manged to remove complete with soldered pins. I can only assume BMW did this to stop bulbs falling inside the HVAC control unit!

The LED legs were tinned to add a bit of bulk so they made a good connection with the car's plugs, then trimmed the legs to length. One leg is penned in black. This is because new LEDS have the +ve identified by a longer leg. When I trimmed them to length, you lose this identifier! There is another way of identifying it though, the -ve normally links to the largest metaled area inside the LED.

After triple checking the LED cathode and anode (-ve and +ve) were correctly orientated, glued the LED in place with hot glue, using the LED's legs to replace the soldered pins shown on the right. The sharp eyed amongst you will spot that the middle plug (where the plug was cut shorter than the later versions) has the LED inserted the opposite way to the other 2. This is because the ashtray plug was wired incorrectly at the factory.

I attempted to ensure the element of the LED that generates the light was roughly in the same place as the bulb filament. These pictures shows the LEDs fitted and working. The only limitation is that the LEDs used have a narrow viewing angle with leaves parts of the HVAC with poorer light coverage. This will be remedied when I source a 12v LED with a wider viewing angle. (Or use lower voltage LED with a wider viewing angle and an external current limiting resistor)

Cost? circa £18 for 30 LEDs which included postage and packaging which works out at roughly 60p each!

LEDs: https://www.rapidonline.com/4-8mm-low-profile?Attributes={"Forward Voltage Typical":["12V"]}

 

[Sean d]

It was time to replace the pesky lamps in the HVAC, but I was not prepared to pay silly prices for a plug with a soldered in bulb.

View attachment 85857

Plus, maybe LEDs are the way forward. So, I sourced white 12V LEDs, the resistors are built in, identified which was the ground wire on the car sockets, its brown and white, and went to work.

The pictures below are the 3 versions of mod, first version was cutting away to reveal the soldered connection to finally deciding that you can pull the pins out one side, then remove the bulb from the other. The bulb plug on the left shows the final version. I have also shown the one bulb I manged to remove complete with soldered pins. I can only assume BMW did this to stop bulbs falling inside the HVAC control unit!

View attachment 85856

The LED legs were tinned to add a bit of bulk so they made a good connection with the car's plugs, then trimmed the legs to length. One leg is penned in black. This is because new LEDS have the +ve identified by a longer leg. When I trimmed them to length, you lose this identifier! There is another way of identifying it though, the -ve normally links to the largest metaled area inside the LED.

After triple checking the LED cathode and anode (-ve and +ve) were correctly orientated, glued the LED in place with hot glue, using the LED's legs to replace the soldered pins shown on the right. The sharp eyed amongst you will spot that the middle plug (where the plug was cut shorter than the later versions) has the LED inserted the opposite way to the other 2. This is because the ashtray plug was wired incorrectly at the factory.

View attachment 85859

I attempted to ensure the element of the LED that generates the light was roughly in the same place as the bulb filament. These pictures shows the LEDs fitted and working. The only limitation is that the LEDs used have a narrow viewing angle with leaves parts of the HVAC with poorer light coverage. This will be remedied when I source a 12v LED with a wider viewing angle. (Or use lower voltage LED with a wider viewing angle and an external current limiting resistor)

View attachment 85860 View attachment 85861

Cost? circa £18 for 30 LEDs which included postage and packaging which works out at roughly 60p each!

LEDs: https://www.rapidonline.com/4-8mm-low-profile?Attributes={"Forward Voltage Typical":["12V"]}

CW

Great idea, do the led pins go all the way through into the connecting plug, I didsomething similar but soldered them, it was a pain, I take it you have a number of spare bulbs you may be selling at lets say a £1 each

 

[Clockwatcher]

Sean,

The pins go all the way through the plug to make the connection to the socket on the car. I may not have any spares though, my next mini project (definitely not on your scale) is to see how I can do the same with the instrument panel.