Hex heads of doom
- Thread starter 2bmws
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
Nor do I anymore - it was good while it lastedNice video, very jealous, I don't have a bog in my garage
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Not seen that happen before. It should be welded on.
It was welded on, going to hacksaw the head off tomorrow as its too close to the petrol tank to use the disc cutter then when I put the new part on gonna have to take the sill cover off and put a nut behind it, this isn't going well
I am just a little concerned at what corrosion may be lurking behind the sill cover. It's unusual for the brackets to rot out and it's possible corrosion caused the nut to fall off. But it doesn't necessarily follow.
Those nuts are pretty welded in there I hope that’s the case you’ve managed to crack the weld and not rot behind there but saying that it would have easily turned earlier. You can get access through on of the holes in sill to hold a nut there when you come to bolt it up. I would use some loctite when you come to bolt it in and get the nut tack welded later. I hope you have a better session next time.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
- Points
- 95
Maybe a rectangular plate with a suitably drilled and tapped hole. You could hold the place on a magnet while someone else threaded the bolt in.
This way you wouldn't have to try and clean the inner sill up for welding and if it is rusty it will spread the load. If you do need to remove the bolt and you have worked out the correct size of the plate, it will become trapped and won't turn when you remove the bolt.
I suspect that these bolts are fitted with loctite, to remove them successfully the bolt needs to be heated first to soften the loctite. I work quite a bit on Harleys and Triumphs, almost all the bolts are fitted with locktite, any allen or torx bolts that are not heated first will strip, I always heat them first before attempting to undo them, saves a lot of time and hassle in the long run.
This way you wouldn't have to try and clean the inner sill up for welding and if it is rusty it will spread the load. If you do need to remove the bolt and you have worked out the correct size of the plate, it will become trapped and won't turn when you remove the bolt.
I suspect that these bolts are fitted with loctite, to remove them successfully the bolt needs to be heated first to soften the loctite. I work quite a bit on Harleys and Triumphs, almost all the bolts are fitted with locktite, any allen or torx bolts that are not heated first will strip, I always heat them first before attempting to undo them, saves a lot of time and hassle in the long run.
You might have to take the sills off to gain access to the threads behind (as seen in Pingu's Video) if you do this you can just replace with a nut n bolt.
All done
new push rods on, just got to do that bolt now. It wasn't rotten behind the bracket must have been hitting it too hard, should of use a set of mole grips or something once I cracked it with a hammer and chisel
new push rods on, just got to do that bolt now. It wasn't rotten behind the bracket must have been hitting it too hard, should of use a set of mole grips or something once I cracked it with a hammer and chisel