Hi guys need some advice please, my z3 failed on the push rods? Think that's right 1 of them is rotted through read a few threads and gonna buy erbauer nut remover from screwfix now when I pop up gym, is there anything else I can try. I tried a 6mm hex head and it started rounding so tried a torque in it, also tapped it with hammer sprayed the guts out of it with wd40 and there not budging.
Hex heads of doom
- Thread starter 2bmws
- Start date
Access to a welder? Could grind those back to some bare metal and weld a nut on to it. Those erbauer or Irwin nut removal kits are quite good though.
If you buy the Irwin kit (other brands are available) you want to knock the socket onto the bolt head before trying to turn it.
If you have an Impact Driver use that in conjunction with the socket.
Tony.
If you have an Impact Driver use that in conjunction with the socket.
Tony.
Those nut extractor sets are worth the money for situations like this. As Tony says they need hammering on so it bites into the head. I bought the us pro version from Amazon and had been a saver from ball ache.
Picked up those extractors and got 3 out straight away brilliant just can't get the last one closest the petrol tank, there's not enough room to give it a good wack with the hammer, tried different size ones but can't get it to stick on, going to have another go tomorrow, have you guys got anymore ideas please thanks
Stick an extension bar on the socket head so it clears the canister pipework and whack that.
Will try that tomorrow thanke
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
- Points
- 231
- Model of Z
- Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
You're dropping the rear beam out?
'Pushrods?' A very odd description for a socket screw - where did you dream that up?
Diesel is a better penetrating oil than WD-40. It is a long time since I removed these plates, but have a feeling that the socket screws have a 7 mm drive. If you cannot get a decent grip in them, get a suitable socket/Torx key and drive it into the socket head. While applying some effort to the screw, hit it witha 2 pound hammer and see if it comes loose - I find this usually works on corroded socket screws.
If you have a tiny blowtorch some heat will help.
Failing that, drill the heads off, and after removing the bracing plates attack the screws with a stilson wrench.
Diesel is a better penetrating oil than WD-40. It is a long time since I removed these plates, but have a feeling that the socket screws have a 7 mm drive. If you cannot get a decent grip in them, get a suitable socket/Torx key and drive it into the socket head. While applying some effort to the screw, hit it witha 2 pound hammer and see if it comes loose - I find this usually works on corroded socket screws.
If you have a tiny blowtorch some heat will help.
Failing that, drill the heads off, and after removing the bracing plates attack the screws with a stilson wrench.
Push rod or thrust rod is the name of the brackets I'm trying to get off, 
you'd have to ask bmw where they got that name from.
I will try all that later thanks, last one is the one closest the fuel tank not a lot of room to swing a hammer in there, spent 2 hours on that 1 bolt last night.
you'd have to ask bmw where they got that name from.I will try all that later thanks, last one is the one closest the fuel tank not a lot of room to swing a hammer in there, spent 2 hours on that 1 bolt last night.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
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- Jan 9, 2017
- Points
- 95
Blowtorch+plastic fuel tank=warm and toasty garage!
I have an induction heater gun (about £200 off eBay)
Heats a bolt held in vice grips to cherry red in about 15 seconds, if in metal it takes about 30 seconds. Cool the bolt down with water before trying to undo otherwise if it is still red hot you will just break the bolt. Not a tool you will use every day but so very useful when you do need it. Great for nuts on exhaust manifolds.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0N7D8q2YHec
I have an induction heater gun (about £200 off eBay)
Heats a bolt held in vice grips to cherry red in about 15 seconds, if in metal it takes about 30 seconds. Cool the bolt down with water before trying to undo otherwise if it is still red hot you will just break the bolt. Not a tool you will use every day but so very useful when you do need it. Great for nuts on exhaust manifolds.
Pushrod is BMW's name for those brackets. Having removed several sets of these the Irwin removers or similar are the way to go. But they need to be struck on very firmly and the bolt removed in one go as they won't grip quite the same second time around if they come off.
By all means try the hex socket first as it won't compromise the outer surface for the Irwin removers. But it's nowhere near as effective in my view.
Personally I'd advise against cutting slots into the bolts for a screwdriver or cutting the heads off. Both are more time consuming than the Irwin removers. They are very quick and very easy as long as you get the socket on firmly. A set is not expensive and will find use elsewhere over time.
I do put penetrating fluid on for good measure. I use Sea Foam Deep Creep which is expensive but on another level. However these bolts are held in with very little torque and once started come out easily. In other words they are (surprisingly) not usually crusted in around the thread. It's just getting a socket on the head. That said I've never seen a set of brackets deteriorated like yours so maybe on this occasion who knows about the bolts. But I would avoid bothering with heat unless you really need to - I don't think it will be necessary and the fuel tank is nearby.
By all means try the hex socket first as it won't compromise the outer surface for the Irwin removers. But it's nowhere near as effective in my view.
Personally I'd advise against cutting slots into the bolts for a screwdriver or cutting the heads off. Both are more time consuming than the Irwin removers. They are very quick and very easy as long as you get the socket on firmly. A set is not expensive and will find use elsewhere over time.
I do put penetrating fluid on for good measure. I use Sea Foam Deep Creep which is expensive but on another level. However these bolts are held in with very little torque and once started come out easily. In other words they are (surprisingly) not usually crusted in around the thread. It's just getting a socket on the head. That said I've never seen a set of brackets deteriorated like yours so maybe on this occasion who knows about the bolts. But I would avoid bothering with heat unless you really need to - I don't think it will be necessary and the fuel tank is nearby.
It's just the last one on the drivers side at the front I'm having trouble with, all the other are out hopefully I can bang one of them irwin removers on it with an extension bar later when I finish work because I couldn't last night when I just put a socket over it
Yes that I'm quite sure will get you out of the pickle. Be aware the Irwins are 3/8" if you are using a 1/2" wrench. Converters easily/cheaply available from 3/8" to 1/2".
Rest of info was to dump my thoughts down in one place for anyone else for future reference.
Btw don't buy the original parts to put back, ie with allen head. Put some hex head bolts back in for future ease of removal (for next poor soul in 20 years time). But do use the closest sized BMW part so you get the correct grade of steel (8.8). These are 22mm bolts but a 25mm bolt goes back in fine (from memory). Don't put DIY store bolts back in as they won't be the correct grade (4.6).
M8 FLANGED BOLTS FULLY THREADED FLANGE HEXAGON HEAD SCREWS A2 STAINLESS STEEL | eBay
M8 Flanged Hexagon Screws. M8 flanged hexagon head set screws. A2 Stainless Steel Hexagon. Stainless Steel Flanged. M4,M5,M6,M8 A2 Stainless Steel. Hexagon Head Fully Threaded. A2 Stainless Stee l. Manufactured from A2 grade stainless steel for improved corrosion resistance.
www.ebay.co.uk
Bought these ones?
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2014
- Points
- 174
- Model of Z
- 2.2i Sport
So long as they're 8.8s they'll save this happening next time. For my fourth and final bolt that just would not come out I cut a small slot with my Dremel-a-like and a thin disc and got a thin chisel into it, came loose with the first whack. Now, why couldn't it have done that to begin with? Answers on a postcard please.M8 FLANGED BOLTS FULLY THREADED FLANGE HEXAGON HEAD SCREWS A2 STAINLESS STEEL | eBay
M8 Flanged Hexagon Screws. M8 flanged hexagon head set screws. A2 Stainless Steel Hexagon. Stainless Steel Flanged. M4,M5,M6,M8 A2 Stainless Steel. Hexagon Head Fully Threaded. A2 Stainless Stee l. Manufactured from A2 grade stainless steel for improved corrosion resistance.www.ebay.co.uk
Bought these ones?
Stainless Steel is generally lower grade than regular steel and has it's own grading system. So you won't find any Stainless Steel bolt referenced as 8.8. Indeed I'm not even sure Stainless Steel would come as hard as an equivalent 8.8. The stainless part I would imagine adds something that becomes an impurity to the structural integrity.
The very first big job I did on a Z3 I also thought to myself, ah stainless - that will stop the rusting. But then learned I should stick with the regular steel and of the appropriate grade. It's much harder and BMW picked it for a reason. You'll also find some 10.9s on a Z3 suspension. That said those nuts are still holding the propshaft to the diff on the car 6000 miles later.
The very first big job I did on a Z3 I also thought to myself, ah stainless - that will stop the rusting. But then learned I should stick with the regular steel and of the appropriate grade. It's much harder and BMW picked it for a reason. You'll also find some 10.9s on a Z3 suspension. That said those nuts are still holding the propshaft to the diff on the car 6000 miles later.