Help needed from an electrickery person

[Brian H]

Two things spring to my mind, the symptoms do sound as if your passenger side door lock actuator is goosed however there is a small chance that the loom of doom is playing tricks here, the loom of doom is the small loom that sits between the boot lid and the car, these are prone to becoming brittle over a few years and the wiring fails which in turn can cause issues like you have. You can visually inspect the loom of doom my removing the outer sheathing.

 

[Axelf]

I read something about this this morning it had something to do with the fact the battery was disconnected and a door locking state being changed while the battery was disc meaning the alarm / locking sits out of phase.
He disc'd the battery and changed the locking state this resolved .
I'll find a link....

Ok well tried this first... No luck apart from having to retune the radio in..... Haha

Also check wiring loom as it enters the boot - a wiring break there can throw up all sorts of odd sequences.

Had a look here and found a wire broken blue/red.... Connected it and tried again.... Still nothing.....

You don't have to "register" your battery with the ECU on a Z3. Forum folklore that's not true.

There are a number of signals the central locking needs to work correctly:

- Door position status, tells if the door is open or closed, both open and closed are required. This switch is on the body work side of the lock behind the latch pin. Check that the switch is moving freely. With the door closed, push on it a bit more and try the central locking. If it works then you need a new switch. Also try turning the plastic around on the latch pin as it may be worn and stopping the travel needed to activate the switch. If you have to change the switch, only fully remove one screw at a time. The backing plate is not fixed and will drop if all screws are removed. If this happens you'll learn how to take more of your interior apart than you would want to, just to retrieve the backing plate.

- Door lock status, both locked and unlocked are required. This switch is in the door lock actuator inside the door.

- Trunk locked/unlocked. Usual fault here is in the cable that goes from the body to the trunk lid. The wires break inside the sheathing.

From your symptoms, I would look at the passengers door, check the door position switch first.
Muzz

Tried all this still no good... I have came to the fact it is going to stay the way it is... Thanks any way

 

[jonco]

..................Tried all this still no good... I have came to the fact it is going to stay the way it is... Thanks any way

Think blue/red is third brake light - if you decide to have another go then target passenger door actuator/solenoid as previously suggested.

 

[Axelf]

Think blue/red is third brake light - if you decide to have another go then target passenger door actuator/solenoid as previously suggested.

Well the brake light worked before I reconnected it.. Thanks

 

[jonco]

Well the brake light worked before I reconnected it.. Thanks

Magic

 

[jonco]

Magic

Just noticed you have the 1999 model - the 1998 ETM shows red/blue as 3rd brake light - can't find a 1999 version maybe somebody else has one.

 

[NZ00Z3]

Hi

Suggest you find someone local with INPA. I used it to confirm that the status signals of all contacts were present at the GM4 (ZKE) module when I was fault finding my central locking and alarm system problems.

The alternative approach that requires a bit more technical ability, is to use a pin out for the GM4 (ZKE) module and test with an ohm meter (connectors removed) back towards the doors and boot to confirm the presence of all status signals. You need to see each change status e.g. if only open it there and no close, then you have a fault. Testing at the connector is easier if you take the cover off the connector. Its held in place by a couple of small tabs.

Its fixable. Work with Electrickery is like learning how to roll your spaghetti with a spoon and fork. Its easy once you have done it a couple of times.

Hope this helps

Regards

Muzz

 

[jonco]

Good information @Murray Wall - I already had the pinout.pdf but not the other which is very good.

I have INPA but have found its use on remote locking is very limited (power on/off error codes only) on my 12/97 build as the 3G EWS was a dealer install and not factory fitted on earlier versions. Any views?

 

[Brian H]

Had a look here and found a wire broken blue/red.... Connected it and tried again.... Still nothing.....

I would be really surprised if only one wire was broken, although the outer sheath of the wire would look in tact the copper inside could be broken.

Having a look at the ETM it does suggest that the Blue (BL) and Red (RT) cable is the third brake light.