Help needed from an electrickery person

Axelf

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Joined
May 2, 2016
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84
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Co Durham
Model of Z
2.0
Hope some one can shed some light... Since owning the car I have had this problem...
If I use the key in passenger door it will unlock both doors and boot also lock both doors and boot.
If I use key in drivers door it will only lock and unlock drivers door and boot.
If I use the alarm key fob it will only lock and unlock the drivers door and boot....
Any ideas what it could be???
 

Grumps

Always happy, apart from when I'm not 🤬
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Z4 e85 2.5i
I have a similar issue. I believe the acuators for the cental locking are common to fail. I just live with it as there's only the two doors is no major issue for me.
 

Antm72

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I read something about this this morning it had something to do with the fact the battery was disconnected and a door locking state being changed while the battery was disc meaning the alarm / locking sits out of phase.
He disc'd the battery and changed the locking state this resolved .
I'll find a link....
 

t-tony

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jonco

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The symptoms you describe sound like the passenger door actuator, I had the same problem, but try @Antm72 's suggested link first it's easier and cheaper!

Also check wiring loom as it enters the boot - a wiring break there can throw up all sorts of odd sequences.
 

t-tony

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Antm72

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The guy who had the issue tried the solenoid and wiring etc nothing seemed to work . It may help i had a solenoid fail on my first zed it start bouncing the locking to start with then it failed.
As said it can't hurt to try.
 

t-tony

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Always start with the free and cheap stuff first!

Tony.
 

t-tony

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Slightly OT but still electrical, if you were serious about a road trip re the DRL's I'm happy to do them for you Tony.

Tony.
 

t-tony

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NZ00Z3

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You don't have to "register" your battery with the ECU on a Z3. Forum folklore that's not true.

There are a number of signals the central locking needs to work correctly:

- Door position status, tells if the door is open or closed, both open and closed are required. This switch is on the body work side of the lock behind the latch pin. Check that the switch is moving freely. With the door closed, push on it a bit more and try the central locking. If it works then you need a new switch. Also try turning the plastic around on the latch pin as it may be worn and stopping the travel needed to activate the switch. If you have to change the switch, only fully remove one screw at a time. The backing plate is not fixed and will drop if all screws are removed. If this happens you'll learn how to take more of your interior apart than you would want to, just to retrieve the backing plate.

- Door lock status, both locked and unlocked are required. This switch is in the door lock actuator inside the door.

- Trunk locked/unlocked. Usual fault here is in the cable that goes from the body to the trunk lid. The wires break inside the sheathing.

From your symptoms, I would look at the passengers door, check the door position switch first.

Hope this helps

Regards

Muzz
 

g8jka

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Mine has been playing up since Santa Pod, passenger door lock won't lock/unlock at all with the central locking or the key (using drivers door and boot lock). I'm having to do it manually by pushing down the pin to lock and pulling the door handle to unlock. I think its the actuator as its been sounding funny for a while when locking/unlocking the car, sounds like its been struggling and I think its finally given up so I'm replacing it.
 

Axelf

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That's similar to mine... Only my passenger works it all with the key to lock and unlock
 
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