HELP M52b28tu with upgraded throttle body idle relay, and ecu

Dimitris Flo

Dimitris Flo

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Jun 12, 2019
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Hi guys!!! I have a 2.8 m52b28tu my tech said we can make it faster by replacing the
M52b28tu Manifold, throttle body, idle relay, and ecu with the same from a m52b30.
Does anyone have any input????
Has anyone done this???
or is this a waste of time and money??
 
- M54B30 inlet manifold fits and works well. Use your existing injectors and throttle body. Need an E-Bay throttle body adapter plate.
- M54B30 throttle body. It is a drive by wire throttle and needs the accelerator peddle changed and intermediate wiring plus the M54B30 engine computer (DME). A lot of work for not very much gain.
- Idle control vale. Its the same part number for all M52TU and M54 engines. No gain in changing it.
 
This is what I’ve done. My M52TUB28 is running the 3.0 manifold and all associated bits including flyby wire and ECU. Quite a noticeable improvement with a map to complete the change.
 
Sajk said:
Add the intake cam from an m54 3.0 (must be 3.0) and you will be close to 3.0 hp apart from 200cc of displacement
Click to expand...

For the same price as that cam you can buy a pair of reground 2.8 cams from Germany taking you past 3.0 power. My 2.8 is still on normal cams and after it’s stage 2 makes more torque than a stock 3.0 food for thought.
 
Thanks Lee. What cams do you have from what vendor? I ended up going with a set from cat cams as an upgrade from the 3.0 intake cam which I got cheap second hand. Interested in the specs of your grind but don't think I am going to change a second time😶 what is your stage 2?
 
Hey guys sorry for the late reply!!!
Thanks a lot for the info, luckily I haven’t changed it yet, but it’s tune is coming!!!
I’ll discuss it with my mechanic
What do you mean by all associated bits,
Does anyone have any links for the above mentioned cams??
 
NZ00Z3 said:
- M54B30 inlet manifold fits and works well. Use your existing injectors and throttle body. Need an E-Bay throttle body adapter plate.
- M54B30 throttle body. It is a drive by wire throttle and needs the accelerator peddle changed and intermediate wiring plus the M54B30 engine computer (DME). A lot of work for not very much gain.
- Idle control vale. Its the same part number for all M52TU and M54 engines. No gain in changing it.
Click to expand...

Hi NZ00Z3 and thanks for the response,
Do you have any link as to which part you mean?? E-Bay throttle body adapter plate??
 
Thanks NZ00Z3!
Your the man, I’ll show it to my tech….
I hope he knows what to do with it!!!

😂😂😂
 
Lee said:
This is what I’ve done. My M52TUB28 is running the 3.0 manifold and all associated bits including flyby wire and ECU. Quite a noticeable improvement with a map to complete the change.
Click to expand...
Hi lee, thanks for your reply, which parts do you mean exactly when you say all associated bits and pieces???
 
Dimitris Flo said:
Hi lee, thanks for your reply, which parts do you mean exactly when you say all associated bits and pieces???
Click to expand...

Basically I’m running everything 3.0 bar the displacement. Manifold, TB, injectors, air intake, Maf, flyby wire throttle, MS43 Ecu. Then to get it all working ok a remap.
 
Where did you get the throttle peddle? This is the only thing I had trouble finding to gondrive by wire.
 
Either from a 2.2/3.0 or the E46. Same assembly.
 
Hi guys, I have a question as I had a trip today with my z3, as I would drive the car faster, the temperature would rise, and when I would let off the gas the temperature would drop down again.

Is this symptom a sign of fridge problems, or water pump???
 
Dimitris Flo said:
Hi guys, I have a question as I had a trip today with my z3, as I would drive the car faster, the temperature would rise, and when I would let off the gas the temperature would drop down again.

Is this symptom a sign of fridge problems, or water pump???
Click to expand...

Long as it’s not raising above the mid way point this is a sign of a stuck open thermostat. Not expensive to replace.
 
It’s raising above the mid way point but not maxing out in the red, unfortunately whenever I would push the car more than 120 km it would rise, and when I would let go of the gas it would drop again. What strike me as odd is that it would over heat on the highway and not in traffic???
 
It sounds like something is reducing the flow of coolant in the systems.
  • Sufficient coolant flow and air movement to cool the engine at idle, when the amount of heat being produced is low.
  • Insufficient coolant flow and air movement at speed, when the amount of heat being produced is high
Check:
  • Thermostat. Is it stuck closed or in a partly open position
  • Radiator core for bugs, hay, leaves and other stuff that stops the air flow
  • Water pump.
 
  • Agree
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