There are a few very helpful guys in your sort of area who may be able to assist you with your problems if required
Help and encouragement needed
- Thread starter GeoffZ
- Start date
Another thought there maybe good secondhand parets with our forum chaps that dismantle Zs
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Points
- 43
- Model of Z
- M44
Well I have had some of the prices in for all the parts to do a cooling system overhaul using OEM parts and it comes to £1250 incl vat so that's a non starter. It will have to be EuroParts whose prices seem to be around a third. I can't justify the cost of OEM parts not far short of what I paid for the car as much as I would prefer to use them. Oh well. Car is on SORN now as I didn't want to waste a month of road tax and anything to annoy the government has to be worthwhile.
You don't have to buy from BMW to get OEM quality parts.
Tony.
Tony.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Points
- 43
- Model of Z
- M44
So how do newbies to this, tell whether what they are being offered is quality or junk? Or, who sells the quality OEM parts outside of the BMW dealer network?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Points
- 43
- Model of Z
- M44
Yes, full refund for any remaining full months of tax. I SORNED the car on Sunday March 31st so April onwards was refunded. If you wait for the first day of the month, you will lose that entire month. I regularly SORN and re-tax rather than have tax wasting on a car or bike not being used. It takes minutes on line and I received the refund cheque this morning in the post.
Hi Geoff, someone such as ECP (Euro Car Parts) and Andrew Page will stock different lines of goods and if you ask for OEM quality they will tell you which is which. Also if you check items on eBay the listing usually tells you if an item is OEM quality. Makes such as Meyle, LemForder, Gates, amongst many others.
If you search through "cooling system rebuild threads you'll find loads of info, also eBay Germany is worth checking for suggestions as their after market parts supply are very thoroughly regulated for quality.
Tony.
If you search through "cooling system rebuild threads you'll find loads of info, also eBay Germany is worth checking for suggestions as their after market parts supply are very thoroughly regulated for quality.
Tony.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Points
- 43
- Model of Z
- M44
Thats great advice Tony, thank you.
No worries mate we did a rebuild on @Grump 2.8 a couple of years ago including new fan (it had shattered), belts, water pump, tensioner and idler pulley. I changed the belts and tensioner and idler on my Z3. Both in there somewhere.
Tony.
Tony.
The rad I have is off ebay, same one is in my sons E36 for over a year, no problems. one from same seller in my Ignis Sport for over 30K.
Pump is Quinton Hazell.
Thermostat and housing is Circoli from Ecp, I'm not a huge fan of ECP stats, I may change the stat itself out if I can get a decent one.
The rear coolant coupler is off ebay, quality is fine.
Pump is Quinton Hazell.
Thermostat and housing is Circoli from Ecp, I'm not a huge fan of ECP stats, I may change the stat itself out if I can get a decent one.
The rear coolant coupler is off ebay, quality is fine.
All good info Iain, thanks for sharing.
Tony.
Tony.
@GeoffZ , if you are not sure about the various manufacturers’ quality or which one to go for, best pricing or even just how to do things on the car, just put a question on the forum, and help, and good advice, is at hand.
You will get far more sense and expertise from the people on this site than you ever get from a BMW dealership.
Until Nov 2017, I had never owned a BMW so the Z3 was my introduction, and with the help of lots of people on this forum I like to think that I have progressed from a total novice idiot to reasonably competent idiot in a relatively short space of time. Still lots to learn buts thats the fun.
I cannot argue Malc, and it's been fun helping/hindering mate.
Tony.
Tony.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Points
- 43
- Model of Z
- M44
You guys have already been a huge help and I have a much clearer idea now of my next step. No doubt and once I have acquired the parts needed, I will be posting for more specific advice and help along the way. I usually manage to be the "only person ever to have had that problem". 
Some more encouragement:
Mine as of last night.
Head was off for a skim and relap. Now back together, still a bit to do.
Do change the vacuum hose from the manifold to the fuel rail, when I examined mine it simply disintegrated. Now replaced with 4mm silicone, the stainless clips aren't necessary, just bling.
Careful if you have to remove the exhaust front section, three of the studs on my manifold snapped. They are available, at a tenner each, but now look to have a standard shank, listed as a Hex bolt. I ended up using stainless coach bolts, filed to an interference type fit and welded. If you do have that problem I have pics. Note that the copper flashed manifold nuts are M7/M10, not standard M8/M10.
And while I remember, if you have the front case off, replace the crank seal. No need to buy from BMW, it's just a standard right twist oil seal, about 6 quid.
I also have a pattern somewhere to make the special tool to lock the front pulley, just a big bit of steel with four strategically drilled holes.
Mine as of last night.
Head was off for a skim and relap. Now back together, still a bit to do.
Do change the vacuum hose from the manifold to the fuel rail, when I examined mine it simply disintegrated. Now replaced with 4mm silicone, the stainless clips aren't necessary, just bling.
Careful if you have to remove the exhaust front section, three of the studs on my manifold snapped. They are available, at a tenner each, but now look to have a standard shank, listed as a Hex bolt. I ended up using stainless coach bolts, filed to an interference type fit and welded. If you do have that problem I have pics. Note that the copper flashed manifold nuts are M7/M10, not standard M8/M10.
And while I remember, if you have the front case off, replace the crank seal. No need to buy from BMW, it's just a standard right twist oil seal, about 6 quid.
I also have a pattern somewhere to make the special tool to lock the front pulley, just a big bit of steel with four strategically drilled holes.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Points
- 43
- Model of Z
- M44
Just thought I would update on my original thread and pleased to say, I have now fitted a new rad, water pump etc and finished putting it all back together last night so put the battery on charge for a start up and bleed this morning. Running very sweetly with no leaks and the temp gauge sat on exactly half way no matter what. However, I have one mystery which I am sure one you guys will know the answer to; If the expansion bottle only sits at its mark which is roughly halfway, how does the rad fill to the top? Surely this defies the laws of physics? Would love to know. Anyhow, just the seat bushes to do now and then back on the road as I have decided to leave the sills to the winter workshop.
Glad you have sorted out the cooling system. I did mine ages ago and it was fine, but I keep watching the temp gauge all the time I’m out in the car
The expansion tank query.... who knows!!!!! its Magic
The expansion tank query.... who knows!!!!! its Magic