Hello everyone question re new head gasket on an R reg Z3 with 96k on clock

[VOLVOSKODA]

Just wondered if anyone had any thoughts on above question?

 

[VOLVOSKODA]

As in cost and is it worth it?

 

[t-tony]

Hard to judge on those few details really. Which engine, what general condition , etc.

Tony.

 

[VOLVOSKODA]

Appreciate that Tony. I guess price will decide. She in a nice condition 1.8l very much a spare car, never goes far, 50 miles tops and then back again. Nice to drive in the summer with the lid pealed back and as a spare when the main car is in dry Dock.

 

[t-tony]

Where are you located? There may be local members who could offer some suggestions for getting quotes. By the sounds of it, it is well worth having the head job done which from personal experience I think you'll pay £800 - £1,000.

Tony.

ps. Why do you suspect the head gasket by the way?

 

[Shelly]

 

[Duncodin]

Where are you located? There may be local members who could offer some suggestions for getting quotes. By the sounds of it, it is well worth having the head job done which from personal experience I think you'll pay £800 - £1,000.

Tony.

ps. Why do you suspect the head gasket by the way?

£1000? Wow. I've never done a z head gasket. Hope I never have to. But I have done head gaskets on many other cars including twin OH cam mercs.

Is there anything special about z engines that means they cost more to have done than other cars? Would I be able to do it or does it need a team of specialists with a workshop full of special tools?

Just trying to prepare myself in case I, one day, have to have this done. So any tips on problems I might encounter if doing it myself would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[VOLVOSKODA]

I live in Warwickshire and I have a garage contact in Nottingham 50 miles away, who could probably do the work, my local mechanic isn't keen. The reason I've been told its the head gasket, is that a few weeks ago, I used the car to jump start another car and left it running for a while, during which time all the coolant spilled out under the car. My local mechanic, refilled it a few days later and it now drives fine. I've been doing short journeys 10-15 miles and the temperature guage is not extending past the middle position, even in this external heat. I haven't tried taking it further as some of the online tips I've read, suggests that the car will still drive, but you risk doing damage. The comment about £800 sounding expensive puzzles me a little as I was under the impression it would be easily £1000 on most cars?

 

[Duncodin]

Maybe the filler cap or bleed screw was loose and the mechanic refilled the system, bled it and tightened everything back up and the fault is gone?

If you can drive the car at normal working temperature and the car doesn't overheat and coolant doesn't come out - and there's no oil in the water and no water in the oil (ie mucky foam in the oil filler cap) - then I'd say the head gasket is OK.

But if you leave it idling for an extended period and it still overheats and the coolant does come out then I'd say you need to:-

Look under the hood to see where it's venting from?
Check the fan, does it engage when hot?
Check the filler cap.
Check your radiator - might need a flush.

I suppose it could be the head gasket that only leaks at certain temperature/pressure but don't pull the head off till you've checked the above - coz they won't cost you anything to check.

 

[VOLVOSKODA]

Thanks for that advice, I'll try those suggestions.

 

[Z Victor 1]

How times change! £1000 for a head gasket change, seems a lot, are things so much different? In my early motoring days in the 60's I did everything on my cars which were old , but thankfully simple. I did the head gasket on three that I remember, 1947 Austin 10 (side valve) , Ford Anglia 105e and a Farina A40 Austin. They didn't take much time and cost pence for a new gasket. Not the good old days though, I like a car that I know will start at least one morning in the week.

 

[Jack Ratt]

The final cost will depend on whether or not the cylinder head is warped due to overheating and the need to be machined to correct it before refitting. If it needs machining expect it to cost around £150-£175. Mine cost £120 plus vat for my 2.8 back in 2018. You'll most likely be charged at least 8hrs labour to remove and refit it at whatever rate you can negotiate unless you can do the job yourself.
I don't suppose you'll see much change from £1000 in todays market