Hardtop Hoist

Antm72

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Finally found a few hours to have a play with all the bits i brought to make myself a hardtop hoist.
I had looked at buying one but they are not too readily available so having seen what others have done and the way they have been made brought what i thought would work and had a go.
I wanted something i could do alone as most of the time no one is around and a sunny day will be lost, so i first opted for an electric winch.
Picked one up for £40 which is more than up for the job, they cost approx £100 but there are loads second hand so settled on a 250kg one and having hoist myself up on it i knew it was certainly up to the job.
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I opted to buy aluminium box section to hang it from and also hold the hard top from underneath.
45mm box for the winch and 35mm box for the frame.
I went for 35mm as the cargo straps where around this width so they would feed inside.
The cargo straps i brought where
2@ 1m
2@ 2m
The box i cut to just short of the roof width so it would hold the roof but not stick out. I then used eye bolts @345mm on the beam to pass through the hooped ends of the 2x1m straps which i had feed into the box securing them inside.
For protection i brought 32mm neoprene on a roll and attached it to the beam top and the straps this helps protect the paint and the roof lining.
I attached the 2, 2 metre straps with carabena's to the eye bolts in a cross pattern one so it avoided the headrests and roll hoops and also to pass it out to the corners at the rear.
Using the neoprene again to protect the paint This works well and has almost a sticky property so nothing slides once weight is added.
so ended up with this frame.

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That when fitted looks like this.
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It lifts with ease and supports the top very well
now its working i will locate the winch to its final home.
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Worked as planned so happy with the result the hardtop came with a big storage bag that wall hangs so i will probably come the spring bag it and hang it on the wall instead of hanging it all the time but makes light work and controls very well.

Great result far cheaper than i could gave brought a pre made kit and electric to boot. :thumbsup:
 

Redline

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Think I'd put another strap around the front just in case the centre of gravity moves. I know most of the weight is at the rear, but it would be sad to have it tip up unexpectedly.
Not sure the extension block would pass electrical regs :whistle:;)
 

Antm72

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I have thought about it Ian, i have the eye bolts so i can do it but it will never slip forward and the straps are at length if it does move backwards it can be only a rotation not a fall and adding a strap to the front will not stop that but its no hard ship and i could adapt it with an upper beam and add 2 more straps but as i only really intend it to lift on and off and not hang perminantly it may be over kill but i will think on :thumbsup:
 

Antm72

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Great work, much cheaper than buying a genuine one. Be careful when lowering in onto the car as the pins may catch the hoop turrets, as long as your slow with the hoist you will be fine.
Have had it up and down a dozen times its quite controlable really i thought it may jerk but a click of the switch is only a few mm so its quite easy to control. The controller works with one hand so you have one free to guide the top.:thumbsup:
 

t-tony

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Looks like a cracking job Ant. Nice work. If I can keep adding to my initial fund I may have to pick your brains at some point mate.:thumbsup:

Tony.
 

Eddie Zedder

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Cracking job Ant :thumbsup:.
 

t-tony

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Pingu

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Be aware that with your setup, there is a natural tendency for the rear straps to move towards the centre (take the weight off the back of the hardtop to see what I mean). The only thing stopping the straps moving to the centre is friction. You should not rely on friction. The force towards the centre would be very small, but it doesn't take much to overcome friction. I would use some string or paracord to tie the rear straps to the locking pins - this should be enough to hold the straps in position.

Although there is very little risk (due to the forces being so small), you should use a ring to hold the straps to the hook - this would ensure the root of the hook is used, compared to the tip (as you have it). You would have problems if you attempted to lift anything that was approaching the hook's capacity with this setup.

You should avoid too large an angle from the vertical when lifting (60° doubles the force on the strap)...



None of these are a problem (except the strap setup at the rear) as you have massively over-designed the arrangement. I have done similar, i.e. using a 1 tonne winch to lift a <50kg load.

I used scrap metal and spare bits and bobs, so I have over-designed in some parts and taken a risk in others - nothing wrong with that - as long as you understand the risks:thumbsup:

Here's a quick video showing my bodged setup...


Just out of curiosity, how do you get the rear straps in position? Does the rear lift enough to slide the straps under?
 

Antm72

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HI @Pingu yeah the straps pass underneath with out issue. Understand the friction bit but the neoprene is every soft and almost sticky even with force the straps won't move but appreciate the concern and fix.
Had thought about bracing them apart but then the whole thing becomes awkward. As the rear is curved i would need to bend something as to not create pressure but i imagine its possible :thumbsup:
Both setups work fine maybe ober engineered but not at any real expense :)
 

Pingu

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HI @Pingu yeah the straps pass underneath with out issue. Understand the friction bit but the neoprene is every soft and almost sticky even with force the straps won't move but appreciate the concern and fix.
Had thought about bracing them apart but then the whole thing becomes awkward. As the rear is curved i would need to bend something as to not create pressure but i imagine its possible :thumbsup:
Both setups work fine maybe ober engineered but not at any real expense :)
No problem with over-engineering, especially if it's cheap :)

My solution would be to tie a piece of string (with a loop to go around the locking pin) to each rear strap inside the car...



It wouldn't be a very good solution if the roof was heavy or the friction at the roof edge was low, but as they are not, the bending forces on the pin should be insignificant. When the locking pin is clear, put the loop over the pin and move the strap toward the centre of the roof until the slack in the string is taken up.

You probably don't have an issue, but it's an easy fix if you do.

As you can see from my solution, I'm not afraid to break the engineering "rules".:thumbsup:
 

Bozzy

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Only just caught up on this mate, what an excellent job you've made of it.
Well thought out and put together well :thumbsup:.
Could do with that set up to get me out of bed in the mornings :).
 

Antm72

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Only just caught up on this mate, what an excellent job you've made of it.
Well thought out and put together well :thumbsup:.
Could do with that set up to get me out of bed in the mornings :).
I'm sure it could be adapted :ymdevil:
 

t-tony

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