- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
Surgical spirit should get rid of it followed by soapy wash to get rid of residue. Small bottle from chemist or supermarket.
Gifts from a previous owner...
- Thread starter mccalli
- Start date
mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
So - thanks to the advice I've got 95% of all the glue off. All the glue in the picture is gone, but there's a very fine residue on the other side that won't shift. Not that noticeable, but irritating. The white deep scratches above are obviously more than that though. Ftrom what i'm reading it's likely that T-Cut or similar could shift the fine residue, but not the deeper white scratch.
So it looks like I'm now on to doing paint repairs. Never done a paint repair before. From what I'm reading, looks like T-Cut is out as the scratch might be too deep, and I'm more looking at these scratch removal pens instead. Something along the lines of these, although I can't see a colour match for mine. realoem.com says mine is COSMOS black, so I'll need some of whatever colour code that is (303? Can't find it on Halfords or Amazon). So to people who have done paint repairs before...does this look doable for a newbie? Spray, touch up paint or what approach?
Thanks.
So it looks like I'm now on to doing paint repairs. Never done a paint repair before. From what I'm reading, looks like T-Cut is out as the scratch might be too deep, and I'm more looking at these scratch removal pens instead. Something along the lines of these, although I can't see a colour match for mine. realoem.com says mine is COSMOS black, so I'll need some of whatever colour code that is (303? Can't find it on Halfords or Amazon). So to people who have done paint repairs before...does this look doable for a newbie? Spray, touch up paint or what approach?
Thanks.
Turtle Wax colour Magic is good stuff and you get a "lipstick" type pencil to fill in the deep scratches and then polish over to complete the "repair". Not the final answer but will improve the look of deep scratches for the time being.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgoGgCn7xsE
Tony.
Tony.
mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
'Good enough for the time being' is fine - the car has some orange peel going on too, so to get back to proper showroom would require a respray. The entire point of this car was a fun, cheap car to save me money by keeping miles off my main lease car (F11 520D) which I have gone way over mileage on without realising. So a decent-enough repair is precisely what's required here - had been looking at the lipstick-style ones hoping they'd be suitable, because they seem a lot easier to deal with.
OK, one more task for next weekend then, providing no rain at least. At least those vent things are gone now. I'm now debating the 'M' badge that's been stuck on the back of the boot lid - I kind of like it, but mine isn't an M so getting rid might be a reasonable move. Would expect similar paint hassles though, so am a bit wary right now.
Leave the ///M badge where it is. If it offends other people that is their problem not yours. You should not have to incur any costs or aggravation just to keep some opinionated people happy. It is YOUR car, enjoy it as it is.
Tony.
ps. I had a black VW Touareg and my wife has a black VW Eos, both of which benefitted from application of Turtle Wax Colour Magic, it's really good stuff. OK, it might not be what a professional would use but, again, it's YOUR car.
mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
Right - finally had a chance to do some work, but no painting. Could not get the fake chrome washer surrounds to not interfere with the actual jets, so in the end those have come off too. Now 'just' down to painting it, although have had some fairly serious unrelated fun along the way.
Driver's side window winder went, again. Eventually checked eBay and found cheap to fit a new driver's side window, avoiding all the fuss of the current one where guide rails kept falling off even after fixing. Took that route - new window in, all working fine.
Also replaced the clips on the passenger side door, which I thought were missing. Turns out - no, the clips were not missing. They were just still in the car door, and not attached to the door panel. Some pliers, poor language and a flat-blade-screwdriver-as-prying-lever later and all old clips were out, new ones fitted. Door still not right though - turns out that the black plastic...err...'thing' behind which the screw sits to fasten the panel to the door (where the electric window switches would be on the driver side) is snapped, meaning the screw doesn't attach to anything and explaining why the passenger door handle is so loose. Have improvised with a bit of gorilla glue to fasten the panel handle to the main part of the panel, but at some point I'll need to get a new panel if I want to finish the job 'properly'.
Latest hassle is that the door locking buttons won't lock. They work with the key from the outside, but won't work if I just press them down. Thought at first that was to do with me taking the panels off and putting them back incorrectly, but tried with both door panels completely off as as well and same result. Am currently filing this under "don't really care, never use that anyway".
Sigh. Getting there. Always tempted to just hand it to a garage and say "your problem now", but they'd likely faff for close to the same time I did since I doubt they hold instantly accessible Z3 knowledge in their heads. Means would be expensive, whereas despite my moaning I've so far spent < £150 on repair bits, and that includes one bit that cost £90 (the antenna amp). So yep - all fine to fo myself right now.
Step next will be mechanic though - something rattling quite a lot under the car, and I don't have the kit to raise it up to see underneath, nor frankly do I have the inclination. Not doing any harm and its been doing this for quite a while now, but it's more irritating now it's hot and I'm driving everywhere with the roof down - can more clearly hear it.
Driver's side window winder went, again. Eventually checked eBay and found cheap to fit a new driver's side window, avoiding all the fuss of the current one where guide rails kept falling off even after fixing. Took that route - new window in, all working fine.
Also replaced the clips on the passenger side door, which I thought were missing. Turns out - no, the clips were not missing. They were just still in the car door, and not attached to the door panel. Some pliers, poor language and a flat-blade-screwdriver-as-prying-lever later and all old clips were out, new ones fitted. Door still not right though - turns out that the black plastic...err...'thing' behind which the screw sits to fasten the panel to the door (where the electric window switches would be on the driver side) is snapped, meaning the screw doesn't attach to anything and explaining why the passenger door handle is so loose. Have improvised with a bit of gorilla glue to fasten the panel handle to the main part of the panel, but at some point I'll need to get a new panel if I want to finish the job 'properly'.
Latest hassle is that the door locking buttons won't lock. They work with the key from the outside, but won't work if I just press them down. Thought at first that was to do with me taking the panels off and putting them back incorrectly, but tried with both door panels completely off as as well and same result. Am currently filing this under "don't really care, never use that anyway".
Sigh. Getting there. Always tempted to just hand it to a garage and say "your problem now", but they'd likely faff for close to the same time I did since I doubt they hold instantly accessible Z3 knowledge in their heads. Means would be expensive, whereas despite my moaning I've so far spent < £150 on repair bits, and that includes one bit that cost £90 (the antenna amp). So yep - all fine to fo myself right now.
Step next will be mechanic though - something rattling quite a lot under the car, and I don't have the kit to raise it up to see underneath, nor frankly do I have the inclination. Not doing any harm and its been doing this for quite a while now, but it's more irritating now it's hot and I'm driving everywhere with the roof down - can more clearly hear it.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2014
- Points
- 174
- Model of Z
- 2.2i Sport
Got an annoying rattle from under mine, only happens around 1500 rpm, and won't do it when it's parked, has to be while it's driving. Been like that for over five years now, and nothing's gone bang/fallen off yet. May just leave it alone.
Ps. Not handbrake related, have changed everything in there over the years. Got the feeling it may be one of the manifold heat-shields, and if it is that it's definitely staying like it. Had problems in that area with my e30, what do BMW make their manifold studs from? Cheese, by any chance?
Ps. Not handbrake related, have changed everything in there over the years. Got the feeling it may be one of the manifold heat-shields, and if it is that it's definitely staying like it. Had problems in that area with my e30, what do BMW make their manifold studs from? Cheese, by any chance?
mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
That's the one, yes. Didn't help much either - still can't get decent FM, but since my DAB now works I've kind of gone off concentrating on it.
mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
Yes, unless I charge my phone in which case instant interference-based death. There's definitely some RF shielding issue going on somewhere along the line.
However most of the time I don't need to charge the phone, and if I do? I use the TuneIn Radio app and just listen digitally anyway - all fine.
mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
So - saga will end tonight, with all the M stuff being taken off. There's only two external bits now - an M badge on the boot lid, and an M badge on the front grill.
Reason is hand forced - have just renewed insurance, and one of the questions specifically asked "has the car been modified in any way that would make it more attractive to thieves, e.g. performance modifications, more powerful model badges etc.". Well - yes, it has. My new insurance kicks in on Wednesday, so that gives me tonight/tomorrow to lose the badges.
Probably for the best.
Reason is hand forced - have just renewed insurance, and one of the questions specifically asked "has the car been modified in any way that would make it more attractive to thieves, e.g. performance modifications, more powerful model badges etc.". Well - yes, it has. My new insurance kicks in on Wednesday, so that gives me tonight/tomorrow to lose the badges.
Probably for the best.
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mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
Found it. It's the phone itself, not the charger. if I use a long lead and keep the phone away from the head unit - all fine. If I put the phone near the head unit....reception-based doom. I do wonder if this is due to the wireless charging and the induction field it generates - even though I'm not using wireless charging, I suspect the circuits respond in the same way.
That's new to me ! More powerful model badges.
mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
Yeah, me too. But it's a specifically called out question, so needs addressing. esure are the people doing it.
Mmmm a bit OTT did you do an online quotation with money supermarket? I have always managed to make a saving even with mods to mine. Every now and then I just sometimes need to switch companies if they won’t price match.
mccalli
Regular Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2018
- Points
- 18
Yes, and I saved nearly £700 this time round. Dual car insurance - switching away from elephant. I do it every year - actually elephant held their own for quite some time. But this time they were so far out it wasn't worth my time to talk.
One of the differences was that esure apply your highest no claims bonus to both cars, whereas elephant do just to one and then you build up a separate no claims on the other. 11 years vs 1 year. Hmm. Let me think for a moment...
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So if I put I 1.0D badge on my zed and let my insurance know then my premium should be a lot less as it’s less desirable to thieves?!
Sounds like just another excuse for insurers to add a little extra to our premiums. Next they will be charging more for tyres that are inflated higher than the manufacturers recommendations.
Not a problem if you get your air done at the dealers with BMW OEM M Performance air...
M performance air costs a lot more than normal OEM air though 