Front brake dust shields - can I cut?

Trevor /chedder

Trevor /chedder

Zorg Legend
Joined
Oct 23, 2021
Points
83
Hi all
I've found videos on how to cut and fit rear disk covers, but can I also do this on the front brake dust shields?, they are a bit more complicated, thanks..
 
Having had to forcibly remove one i would have to say no as there is too much structure to it.

If do do change them this will also require front wheel bearing replacement as the bearing will separate on removal leaving the inner race stuck on the stub pin.
At end of the day not the end of the world to do just need to be prepared to have to do it all as a set.
Stephen.
 
The rear disc shield only get cut to avoid fitting bearings to rear.
Stephen.
 
Stevo7682 said:
Having had to forcibly remove one i would have to say no as there is too much structure to it.

If do do change them this will also require front wheel bearing replacement as the bearing will separate on removal leaving the inner race stuck on the stub pin.
At end of the day not the end of the world to do just need to be prepared to have to do it all as a set.
Stephen.
Click to expand...
So is it quite different to the rear? I can't just cut a shield and fit it like on the back?
 
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These are the ones i have on my Ebay watch list ( link available if you require)
The way it locates when fitted you would seriously bend it out of shape to fit then it woul rub on everything.
Stephen.
 
The fronts are actually easy to change. Once you've unbolted the brakes and removed the disc, the bearing will slide off once you've removed the big nut.
 
Lee said:
The fronts are actually easy to change. Once you've unbolted the brakes and remeved the disc, the bearing will slide off once you've removed the big nut.
Click to expand...
Thanks lee. Don't suppose you've found a guide anywhere?
 
Remove wheel - 17mm
Remove plastic caps on the rear of the calliper
Remove both brake calliper sliders using 7mm Allen key socket.
Wiggle calliper off and cable tie to the shock for support
Remove 2x 16mm bolts holding the carrier on, I use a breaker bar turning the steering for better access.
Next remove 6mm Allen key holding the disc on, give the disc a clout from behind to remove.
The hard bit: Either using a powerful impact gun or big bar using a 46mm socket remove the big nut holding the bearing on.
Using two large screw drivers pry off the bearing it should pull off by hand, sometimes leaving the inner car behind again pry this off too.
Last job, remove the x3 8mm nuts holding the old dust shield on.

I've got the the point with zeds this is all from memory, I need to get out more.
 
To be fair to the E36 design I've never had a stuck bearing out of 100s I've replaced.
 
With mine, the inner inboard half of the bearing had to be removed with a bearing puller.

You must have a special technique if you can remove the bearing complete and without damage.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Lee
Pingu said:
With mine, the inner inboard half of the bearing had to be removed with a bearing puller.

You must have a special technique if you can remove the bearing complete and without damage.
Click to expand...

If the inner race feels like it wont move I just heat it up.
 
Lee said:
They push back in by hand. Just make sure there’s no dirt in the grease.
Click to expand...

Reassembling a bearing is not something I would ever consider doing, but I assume you've never had any problems after the repair.

If 100, or so, repairs haven't caused a problem, it sounds like an acceptable repair :thumbsup: .
 
Pingu said:
Reassembling a bearing is not something I would ever consider doing, but I assume you've never had any problems after the repair.

If 100, or so, repairs haven't caused a problem, it sounds like an acceptable repair :thumbsup: .
Click to expand...

It’s not a repair as such. It’s just the race, the bearings all stay in place. If it was a new bearing the race can’t come out.

No difference really from cleaning a bearing, repacking and sending it :D
 
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