Fault codes
- Thread starter Davyhoogy
- Start date
Happy to help mate.
That 1.9 sounded very fit to me.
That 1.9 sounded very fit to me.
Does it not tell you which camshaft sensor is throwing up the code? Inlet or Exhaust ? Not sure where the DISA is on a 1.9 but someone will do no doubt. Remove it and check it's intact and check any electrical connectors for attachment and clean terminals etc.
Tony.
Malfunction
Repair Importance Level: 3/3
Repair Difficulty Level: 2/3
Possible causes
Tech notes
Sometimes and in some models, low battery voltage or a weak starter can trigger a Camshaft Position Sensor code.
What does this mean?
When is the code detected?
The camshaft position sensor signal is not detected by the Engine Control Module(ECM) during the first few seconds of engine cranking
Possible symptoms
The Camshaft Position Sensor is an electronic device used in an engine to record the rate at which the camshaft is spinning. This information is used by the Engine Control Module(ECM) to control ignition and fuel injection. The camshaft position sensor senses the retraction of camshaft (intake) to identify a particular cylinder. The camshaft position sensor senses the piston position. The sensor system consists of a rotating part, typically a disc, as well as a static part, the actual sensor.
When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change. The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change. The change in the magnetic field cause the voltage from the sensor to change.
When the crankshaft position sensor (POS) system becomes inoperative, the camshaft position sensor provides various controls of engine parts instead, utilizing timing of cylinder identification signals
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-298-bmw-intake-manifold-components-disa-vacuum-ccv-etc
Tony.
Malfunction
Repair Importance Level: 3/3
Repair Difficulty Level: 2/3
Possible causes
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery
Tech notes
Sometimes and in some models, low battery voltage or a weak starter can trigger a Camshaft Position Sensor code.
What does this mean?
When is the code detected?
The camshaft position sensor signal is not detected by the Engine Control Module(ECM) during the first few seconds of engine cranking
Possible symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Lack/Loss of Power
- Engine Stall
The Camshaft Position Sensor is an electronic device used in an engine to record the rate at which the camshaft is spinning. This information is used by the Engine Control Module(ECM) to control ignition and fuel injection. The camshaft position sensor senses the retraction of camshaft (intake) to identify a particular cylinder. The camshaft position sensor senses the piston position. The sensor system consists of a rotating part, typically a disc, as well as a static part, the actual sensor.
When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change. The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change. The change in the magnetic field cause the voltage from the sensor to change.
When the crankshaft position sensor (POS) system becomes inoperative, the camshaft position sensor provides various controls of engine parts instead, utilizing timing of cylinder identification signals
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-298-bmw-intake-manifold-components-disa-vacuum-ccv-etc
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
Camshaft sensor is a regular code setter, replace with oem from BMW, cheap ones rarely last long or work in my experience. If its a M43 engined 1.9 the sensor is at the front of the camshaft cover. M43 and M44 differ with the wiring connector.
The Disa valve code refers to the Disa Valve located at the end of the inlet manifold to the right of the throttle body
three screws hold it in to the plastic manifold and its electrical connection plug is located underneath it.
Pull it out and check its intact, they have been known to break and suck the bits into the engine with bad results.
12v applied to it off the car will cause the flap to move to a closed position if it fails to move it's toast and will need replacing, it isn't cheap. It shortens the inlet manifold when it operates a high throttle position allowing air a shorter route to the injectors. If they fail they usually start making what is described as a clacking noise as the butterfly valve starts flapping open closed rapidly.
The Disa valve code refers to the Disa Valve located at the end of the inlet manifold to the right of the throttle body
three screws hold it in to the plastic manifold and its electrical connection plug is located underneath it.
Pull it out and check its intact, they have been known to break and suck the bits into the engine with bad results.
12v applied to it off the car will cause the flap to move to a closed position if it fails to move it's toast and will need replacing, it isn't cheap. It shortens the inlet manifold when it operates a high throttle position allowing air a shorter route to the injectors. If they fail they usually start making what is described as a clacking noise as the butterfly valve starts flapping open closed rapidly.
Davyhoogy
Zorg Guru (III)
Very informative thankyou. I thought the m43 was a 1.8 so assumed 1.9's were m44..
M43 is single OHC and m44 is Twin OHC as far as I'm aware ? Post a pic of the top of the engine Davy.
Tony.
Tony.
Davyhoogy
Zorg Guru (III)
Will do tomorrow tony. Won't get any investigating done on this till the weekend.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
t-tony is correct regarding the differences between M43 and M44, single cam and double cam.
Both were built alongside each other, the M43 was badged 1.8 however its 1895cc and referred to as a 1.9.
Mine is badged 1.8 and was built on 1st December 1999 and first registered in the UK on 3rd March 2000.
If you go to http://bimmer.work/, put last 6 letters and digits of chassis number in you will find the build details of your car. Also http://www.realoem.com/bmw/index.do to explore the parts for your car based on its chassis number.
Both were built alongside each other, the M43 was badged 1.8 however its 1895cc and referred to as a 1.9.
Mine is badged 1.8 and was built on 1st December 1999 and first registered in the UK on 3rd March 2000.
If you go to http://bimmer.work/, put last 6 letters and digits of chassis number in you will find the build details of your car. Also http://www.realoem.com/bmw/index.do to explore the parts for your car based on its chassis number.
Davyhoogy
Zorg Guru (III)
If I were to sell the engine would I be best replacing the parts currently showing fault or sell it with those faults? There's a disa valve on eBay for £45.
Real oem show my car as an m44 engined car but that is going by my build date
Real oem show my car as an m44 engined car but that is going by my build date
The DISA on a 4 cylinder has no track record of imploding. That's a specific variation on the 6 cylinder cars.
But they do develop faults. New OEM are an awful price £250 last time I checked.
Second hand ones can be a devil to find. I think they get scrapped with the engines normally. And few people think to take them off and sell them.
You can get at least one non-OEM M44 DISA but I wouldn't do it.
And there are no overhaul kits for the M44 version. Besides it sounds like it's the electrics on it not the mechanical part.
Also be aware it just might be a ghost fault caused by an upstream error.
My brother's 1.9 has the same error and I've never got round to changing it. It lacks some top end grunt but it's not a major worry.
I have a secondhand one to drop in. Which is my preferred route. Mine came off a known working car I broke with no codes. Buying from a breaker/eBay they don't normally test them/look for codes so make sure you can get a refund if the replacement is knackered.
It's a nice easy job. But get a new sealing ring.
£45 is a good price actually.
But they do develop faults. New OEM are an awful price £250 last time I checked.
Second hand ones can be a devil to find. I think they get scrapped with the engines normally. And few people think to take them off and sell them.
You can get at least one non-OEM M44 DISA but I wouldn't do it.
And there are no overhaul kits for the M44 version. Besides it sounds like it's the electrics on it not the mechanical part.
Also be aware it just might be a ghost fault caused by an upstream error.
My brother's 1.9 has the same error and I've never got round to changing it. It lacks some top end grunt but it's not a major worry.
I have a secondhand one to drop in. Which is my preferred route. Mine came off a known working car I broke with no codes. Buying from a breaker/eBay they don't normally test them/look for codes so make sure you can get a refund if the replacement is knackered.
It's a nice easy job. But get a new sealing ring.
£45 is a good price actually.
Are you just breaking this car? I wouldn't fuss with the DISA or any ancillaries.
You won't get great money for an M44. Most people would treat any working ancillaries as a bonus and be prepared to swap over from their old engine. And you can say no warranty offered or implied on anything other than the engine itself.
You won't get great money for an M44. Most people would treat any working ancillaries as a bonus and be prepared to swap over from their old engine. And you can say no warranty offered or implied on anything other than the engine itself.
Davyhoogy
Zorg Guru (III)
Thanks for that. I was toying with the idea of getting it put back on the road but for the cost incurred I would lose alot of money from what I will make breaking it. So breaking it is.
I guess I can display the engine and gbox for sale with a note of those faults. It only has 82k on the clock!
I would make sure you price up the breaking aspect carefully. 1.9s especially pre-facelift can be a long slog
Davyhoogy
Zorg Guru (III)
I'm in profit from selling the hardtop so I think I'll do ok
Sounds good to me then!I'm in profit from selling the hardtop so I think I'll do ok