Driveshaft Removal - Any Ideas?

Pingu

Pingu

Zorg Guru (IV)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
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I've broken a 15 ton puller on it (now fixed) and we've given it some large smacks with a 7lb sledge hammer with a drift.

It's off the diff and hanging down, resting on the exhaust and the nut is loose.

Has anyone got any top tips for removing the driveshaft?

I don't plan on replacing the bearings, so don't want to use heat, but this may be the last resort.
 
Gary had this issue when rebuilding Stevie's back axle one of the shafts would not come out of the hub ended up on the work press much plusgas and much tonnage to break the corrosion.
Stephen.
 
Stevo7682 said:
Gary had this issue when rebuilding Stevie's back axle one of the shafts would not come out of the hub ended up on the work press much plusgas and much tonnage to break the corrosion.
Stephen.
Click to expand...

How many tons? It will give me an idea of who I need to see. Some of the garages around here will press bearings for a few tinnies. The ones with the big stuff need some proper money.

The head came off the sledge hammer, so I'll buy a new one tomorrow and we'll give it a proper go. Luckily, the car is on the tilt ramp, so we can get the hub to just the right height for a full blooded swing :nailbiting: .
 
Think ours are 30 ton check tomorrow
I would also give it a good douse with plusgas over several hours and let sit hopefully penetrate.
Ideally arm off stand upright so can fill hole with plusgas let shaft end sit in pool overnight gravity penetration would be potentially more effective.

Stephen.
 
Mine took the swing arm being off the car and supported and clamped. Penetrating fluid, plus a good swing with a two handed lump hammer to shift it, garage I used said it was one of the most stubborn ones they’ve had to do, fortunately the end of the drive shaft did not deform to scrap it but I had to use a die to clean up the first section of threads. Wish you luck Pingu:thumbsup:
 
Give her some heat. Also when the assembly is under tension I give the end a clout a few times. Might also be easier for me as I’m using an impact gun with 2000nm of torque. Never been defeated yet.
 
Lee said:
Give her some heat. Also when the assembly is under tension I give the end a clout a few times. Might also be easier for me as I’m using an impact gun with 2000nm of torque. Never been defeated yet.
Click to expand...

If you are using an impact gun, does that mean you are no using the hydraulic jack, just the screw?

100kg on a 2m bar will be quite a sight. I have a 3/4" knuckle bar, a 3/4"-1/2" adapter and a 1/2" socket, an axle stand top support it all, and a 2m scaffolding pole. What could possibly go wrong? :nailbiting:
 
You need heat. Oxy acetylene on the hub flange around the nut until it's pretty much glowing.

I've noticed with BMW's that the newer they are, the more everything rusts.

2011 E90 318d and 2013 F30 320d.
 

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Andyboy said:
You need heat. Oxy acetylene on the hub flange around the nut until it's pretty much glowing.

I've noticed with BMW's that the newer they are, the more everything rusts.

2011 E90 318d and 2013 F30 320d.
Click to expand...

Holy sh..., that hub is gopping.

I can try to get enough heat into it, but I'd be surprised if I can make something that big glow red. I've got oxy-propane with a 315 nozzle.
 
So much for German engineering, some of the fasteners on my wife’s Z weren’t recognisable as something that originally had a thread!
 
Pingu said:
Holy sh..., that hub is gopping.

I can try to get enough heat into it, but I'd be surprised if I can make something that big glow red. I've got oxy-propane with a 315 nozzle.
Click to expand...

Don’t think you’ll be reusing that wheel bearing 😂
 
The wheel bearing will be fine but to be safe I’d replace it. That is the ideal time to replace the brake backplate.
 
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