Central Locking Question

beak

Regular Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Points
14
Model of Z
2.8
Right, when I unlock on the passengers side (with key) it unlocks both doors. If I do the same on the drivers side it only unlocks the drivers side.

What do I need to fix :)

TIA!
 

Paul Rice

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Z4 2.5
Mine too although the drivers door does unlock the boot on mine. Did lubricate everything when i had the door cards off but no difference :banghead:
 

Brian H

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E36/7 3.0i - E85 Z4///M
Right, when I unlock on the passengers side (with key) it unlocks both doors. If I do the same on the drivers side it only unlocks the drivers side.

What do I need to fix :)

TIA!
Assuming the loom of doom is ok then you need a passenger side door actuator.
 

beak

Regular Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Points
14
Model of Z
2.8
tell me more about the loom of doom? my airbag light is on too....
 

Brian H

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tell me more about the loom of doom? my airbag light is on too....
the loom of doom is the small loom runs from the car to your boot lid, there are several wires in there that become brittle, short out and cause havoc. By the sounds of it I don't think you have to worry about this.

Your airbag light is not connected to the door issue, most likely a seatbelt pre-tensioner circuit has been disturbed, you will need a code reader to reset, many members have them, what is your location and you'll maybe get a helping hand!
 

beak

Regular Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Points
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Model of Z
2.8
Ah, yes that would be very cool, anyone with a code reader in the north Hampshire/Berkshire/Surrey border area?
 

NZ00Z3

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Timaru, New Zealand
Model of Z
3.0L, 2.8L, 2.0L Z3 Roadsters
Hi

Having spent more than a hour or two fixing Z3 central locking faults the following may help you with the quick easy fixes.

A little bit about the Z3 central locking:

- All locks (drivers, passengers and boot/trunk) work the same. If you use the key to unlock anyone, all the others should unlock. Same for locking. So, locking the boot/trunk with your key will lock all doors.

- If one lock does not work when all the others do, then only fault find at the lock that is not working.

- The loom of boom impacts the operation of the boot/trunk locking only.

- Each door has two different sets of contact that need to be working correctly for the central locking to work at that door:

a) Door striker switch (open and closed contacts) located behind the door striker pin on the car jam. Its a little black square. It you need to replace it, remove one screw at a time as the backing plate will fall into the dark pit of despair if all screws are removed at the same time.

b) Door lock position (locked and unlocked contacts), part of the door actuator and hides behind the door handle deep in the door cavity

If no doors or boot/trunk work on the central locking, then that's a more in-depth topic.

Hope this helps

Regards

Muzz
 
Last edited:

t-tony

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E89 Z4 23i Auto
On my Z3 it was the n/s door which wasn't working so that's why I went for the solenoid in that door.

Tony.
 

Mint

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2.2 & 3.0 Sport
Hi

Having spent more than a hour or two fixing Z3 central locking faults the following may help you with the quick easy fixes.

A little bit about the Z3 central locking:

- All locks (drivers, passengers and boot/trunk) work the same. If you use the key to unlock anyone, all the others should unlock. Same for locking. So, locking the boot/trunk with your key will lock all doors.

- If one lock does not work when all the others do, then only fault find at the lock that is not working.

- The loom of boom impacts the operation of the boot/trunk locking only.

- Each door has two different sets of contact that need to be working correctly for the central locking to work at that door:

a) Door striker switch (open and closed contacts) located behind the door striker pin on the car jam. Its a little black square. It you need to replace it, remove one screw at a time as the backing plate will fall into the dark pit of despair if all screws are removed at the same time.

b) Door lock position (locked and unlocked contacts), part of the door actuator and hides behind the door handle deep in the door cavity

- Using INPA helps identify the contact or item that is not working as you can see the contact positions change etc.

If no doors or boot/trunk work on the central locking, then that's a more in-depth topic.

Hope this helps

Regards

Muzz
Great info Muzz, thanks for posting:thumbsup:
 

jakechan

Dedicated Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2015
Points
39
Hi

Having spent more than a hour or two fixing Z3 central locking faults the following may help you with the quick easy fixes.

A little bit about the Z3 central locking:

- All locks (drivers, passengers and boot/trunk) work the same. If you use the key to unlock anyone, all the others should unlock. Same for locking. So, locking the boot/trunk with your key will lock all doors.

- If one lock does not work when all the others do, then only fault find at the lock that is not working.

- The loom of boom impacts the operation of the boot/trunk locking only.

- Each door has two different sets of contact that need to be working correctly for the central locking to work at that door:

a) Door striker switch (open and closed contacts) located behind the door striker pin on the car jam. Its a little black square. It you need to replace it, remove one screw at a time as the backing plate will fall into the dark pit of despair if all screws are removed at the same time.

b) Door lock position (locked and unlocked contacts), part of the door actuator and hides behind the door handle deep in the door cavity

- Using INPA helps identify the contact or item that is not working as you can see the contact positions change etc.

If no doors or boot/trunk work on the central locking, then that's a more in-depth topic.

Hope this helps

Regards

Muzz
Good info, do you have any ideas about increasing the range of the remote? It's not worth having when sometimes the door lock is within arms length by the time the bloody thing works!!
 

Davyhoogy

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 4, 2016
Points
148
Location
Sunderland
Model of Z
'98 2.8 z3
Mine still doesnt work on the passenger side. Replaced the actuator from someone on here, worked once then stopped again
 

Ianmc

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British Zeds
The M44 Massive
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Oct 12, 2014
Points
165
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New Forest
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Z3 (M44)
Good info, do you have any ideas about increasing the range of the remote? It's not worth having when sometimes the door lock is within arms length by the time the bloody thing works!!
Think it's a key battery thing.:)
 

Brian H

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British Zeds
Scottish Zeds
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
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Killin
Model of Z
E36/7 3.0i - E85 Z4///M
Hi

Having spent more than a hour or two fixing Z3 central locking faults the following may help you with the quick easy fixes.

A little bit about the Z3 central locking:

- All locks (drivers, passengers and boot/trunk) work the same. If you use the key to unlock anyone, all the others should unlock. Same for locking. So, locking the boot/trunk with your key will lock all doors.

- If one lock does not work when all the others do, then only fault find at the lock that is not working.

- The loom of boom impacts the operation of the boot/trunk locking only.

- Each door has two different sets of contact that need to be working correctly for the central locking to work at that door:

a) Door striker switch (open and closed contacts) located behind the door striker pin on the car jam. Its a little black square. It you need to replace it, remove one screw at a time as the backing plate will fall into the dark pit of despair if all screws are removed at the same time.

b) Door lock position (locked and unlocked contacts), part of the door actuator and hides behind the door handle deep in the door cavity

- Using INPA helps identify the contact or item that is not working as you can see the contact positions change etc.

If no doors or boot/trunk work on the central locking, then that's a more in-depth topic.

Hope this helps

Regards

Muzz
Good info Murray however the loom of doom has the potential to upset a few things, not just the boot lock.
 

jonco

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'98 1.9 Auto
Good info, do you have any ideas about increasing the range of the remote? It's not worth having when sometimes the door lock is within arms length by the time the bloody thing works!!
Try changing battery in fob - mine's the same as the battery ages. With a new battery installed I can switch it on and off from inside the house with the car in the garage - accidentally at times!
 

NZ00Z3

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Timaru, New Zealand
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3.0L, 2.8L, 2.0L Z3 Roadsters
Good info, do you have any ideas about increasing the range of the remote? It's not worth having when sometimes the door lock is within arms length by the time the bloody thing works!!
Many of the Japan market Z3's have the Infrared Remote Central locking (check your Vin Decode for option 875) and not the RF Remote central locking. The Infrared system requires a line of sight to the clown nose on the bottom of the inside rear view mirror, so the range is very short. The RF system has a far greater range as it does not need the clear line of sight to the mirror. Its range is more dependent on battery condition.

Good info Murray however the loom of doom has the potential to upset a few things, not just the boot lock.
Yes the Loom of doom also affects other systems, My comment was written from the perspective of the central locking system only.
 
Last edited:

Brian H

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Killin
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E36/7 3.0i - E85 Z4///M
Yes the Loom of doom also affects other systems, My comment was written from the perspective of the central locking system only.
If the wires for the central locking short in the boot loom this doers affect the whole central locking system.
 

jonco

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'98 1.9 Auto
..............Suggest you connect your car to INPA and check the central locking operation of the door position contacts and the lock position contacts. Its easy to see the contacts swap condition as you open/close the door or un/lock the door as the black dots change to white and visa versa. If one of the black dots does not appear e.g. you have two white door position dots, then you have found the culprit...........
Hi Muzz,
Which INPA module do you use for this please? I don't believe it is accessible on early models but would love to be proven wrong!
UK models up to mid/late `98 were shipped in minus remote locking systems but with central locking. Remote systems, initially 3G EWS, were then installed as an optional extra by local dealer.
The only INPA fault codes I have been able to find on my '98 (Dec `97 build) are power on/off - have always been told that because they were not factory fitted other info was not available. :confused:
 

beak

Regular Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Points
14
Model of Z
2.8
Ok, so here's my situation.. central locking only opens both doors (not boot) from the passenger door (key only, not even tried the remote). BUT the passenger door wont open till you've opened it from the inside, so something still locked.
boot doesnt respond to anything other than the key, directly.
 

jakechan

Dedicated Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2015
Points
39
A somewhat related central locking question, has anyone installed an after market unit to eliminate remote or similar central locking problems? I'm looking at a unit which should improve my range issue, and also add flasher answer back. I need access to the "door lock unit" and the "hazard module". Where can I find these on my 2002 Z? These would also be used if fitting an alarm I assume.
 
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