Camber?

Davyhoogy

Zorg Guru (III)
Joined
May 4, 2016
Points
148
Location
Sunderland
Model of Z
'98 2.8 z3
Since I've lowered my z3 the camber is, well, rediculous. So much so that the inner tread on the rear tyres is almost gone!
Will a standard wheel alignment and tracking sort this out?
 
This then also raises the worst question / caffufle in z3 history...
Which tyres hahaha
 
Since I've lowered my z3 the camber is, well, rediculous. So much so that the inner tread on the rear tyres is almost gone!
Will a standard wheel alignment and tracking sort this out?
No.
This is the price for low suspension.
 
My suspension is the same and i have no inner tyre wear at all or at least marginal seems odd o_O
 
Since I've lowered my z3 the camber is, well, rediculous. So much so that the inner tread on the rear tyres is almost gone!
Will a standard wheel alignment and tracking sort this out?
The rear camber on the Z is not adjustable, inner tyre wear is a characteristic of our lovely wee cars, lowered suspension will exaggerate this. You can either put eccentric bushes in the trailing arms or weld on camber plates to make the rear camber adjustable.
 
From factory, BMW accepted low suspension, but it was only 15 mm, half'n inch.
I doubt anyone lowered the car less than 3 inches, so the camber is dramatically affected.
 
One way to extend tyre life is to get tyres that can be swapped from the 'inside - out' i.e. They do not have an outside marker but only rotational marker. This way you can take the inside from one side and swap it over to the other side rim and it then becomes the outside- basically doubles the life so from 3k miles to 6k miles of you have a operational right foot! I your foot right foot is broken it's possible to get a heady 10k miles out of a set of rears I believe ;)

The camber is an issue for wear, especially under acceleration but the toe is what really eats it when cruising I'm led to believe. Not sure about th toe adjustment at the rear, been meaning to look into that.
 
r is an issue for wear, especially under acceleration but the toe is what really eats it when cruising I'm led to believe. Not sure about th toe adjustment at the rear, been meaning to look into that.
Same as the camber on the rear @Dino D, you either need eccentric bushes or weld in plates, the toe could be affected by worn trailing arm bushes though.
 
I'll be able to have a proper look into this when all these bloody stone guards are done haha. Damn you all.
From eye, left nearside looks worse than offside
 
You can get diff / wishbone bushes that space it up to reduce the camber

Revshift sell them
 
Got myself a set of these a short while ago, just waiting for a decent weather forecast giving a few dry days in a row to get the axle out. Live in Wales, hope for dry weather in summer? I'm a fool to myself.
Hopefully they'll be enough to sort out the camber.
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog...ustable-camber-toe-kit-bmw-9702-p-148989.html

Awful lot of money for something that undoubtedly cost less than $10 to make. But what can you do.
Hopefully you get them on soon and I can see how it does for you. You got the same issue as me? Lowered or standard springs?
I think new bushes would help anyway my cars handling feels like it was made in America in the 70s haha
 
Got myself a set of these a short while ago, just waiting for a decent weather forecast giving a few dry days in a row to get the axle out. Live in Wales, hope for dry weather in summer? I'm a fool to myself.
Hopefully they'll be enough to sort out the camber.
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog...ustable-camber-toe-kit-bmw-9702-p-148989.html
Just make sure you tighten them up when you install, a bit of loctite on the nuts would not go amiss, these have a renin you to back off after been in for a while.
 
Car came out of the factory on what they call M-sport suspension, replaced all the springs a couple of years ago with H&R ones that gave the same ride height on the back and slightly lower on the front. Agree it's a lot to pay for a few bits of plastic and some eccentric-drilled steel bits, but it's cheaper than trashing rear tyres.
Just need some dry days. Have to do the job outdoors, and changing all the other rear axle bushes while I'm there. And some nice braided steel brake pipes, got an advisory on deteriorated flexible hoses.
 
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