That's a distinct possibility. It is bent as if the car might have been dragged by a rope or chain attached to the track rod.
Tony.
Tony.
Assessing steering/suspension damage
- Thread starter mrscalex
- Start date
That too is a very reasonable theory. Although you might expect to see scuffs around the damage area and there isn't.
Actually the car arrived with the towing eye inserted but snapped off. So that adds more credibility to the theory.
Serious start now made 
Up on axle stands. Likely to be like this for a while.
Another look at that pushed back offside hub, this time with the wheel off.
Here's the source of the problem and it's not the strut as that's still perfectly vertical. The rear of the steering arm has been pushed inwards, collapsing the wishbone. The disc on the nearside of the car is perfectly straight ahead and the camera was straight.
Here's that badly twisted wishbone again.
I've now got a twin LED site light so I can work in the evenings. Screwfix £40, a little lightweight but bright!
Up on axle stands. Likely to be like this for a while.
Another look at that pushed back offside hub, this time with the wheel off.
Here's the source of the problem and it's not the strut as that's still perfectly vertical. The rear of the steering arm has been pushed inwards, collapsing the wishbone. The disc on the nearside of the car is perfectly straight ahead and the camera was straight.
Here's that badly twisted wishbone again.
I've now got a twin LED site light so I can work in the evenings. Screwfix £40, a little lightweight but bright!
Looks as though the lower Spring seat is bent upwards, not convinced the lower arm took all the impact. I would check the strut for cracked paint around the hub attachment point. Good luck with this.
Tony.
Tony.
Agreed. I was talking about why the hub was pointing back/in. The spring seat has taken a consequential knock from the rim/tyre.
The struts are being replaced anyway. I had the sway bar and chassis brace off last night and they looked find but I'm replacing them too. I'm not risking any of it. The only parts I'll consider reusing are the callipers and discs because in theory they should have been isolated from any impact.
It gets a replacement subframe, steering rack, track rods, wishbones (& rear bracket/bush), drop links, steering arms and wheel bearings. Plus the struts, sway bar and chassis brace.
Most of it is coming off my 1.9 breaker which had an extensive run when I drove it home so I know they are good parts. And they are the correct parts as with the exception of the struts and sway bar (coming from elsewhere) all parts are common. Plus anything that looks to be nearing end of life, bushes etc will get replaced with new.
No messing. Not worth risking safety.
Just read through this. Good luck to you, I hope it goes to plan and you can make at least a small drink for your troubles. Just a thought, if that's a tarmac driveway would it be worth putting the axle stands on some timbers to protect it?
Thanks! Yes, I would be better off with something under the axle stands. Although I tend to find it's the trolley jack wheels that do the damage.
Some square pieces of 19mm thick marine ply make good stand pads. I used to use them on my dads drive years ago. Shame I'm not nearer to you helping on a project like this would be fun.
Tony.
Tony.
Well that's very nice of you to take an interest Tony. And you'd be made very welcome. But yes, long distance between us.Some square pieces of 19mm thick marine ply make good stand pads. I used to use them on my dads drive years ago. Shame I'm not nearer to you helping on a project like this would be fun.
Tony.
The fact that the wishbone and track rod folded up probably protected the rest of the chassis from damage.
lt looks like they took the impact by deforming, as sacrificial parts.
My friend hit the kerb in her VW Golf, the NS track rod was bent like a banana but there was no other damage.
lt looks like they took the impact by deforming, as sacrificial parts.
My friend hit the kerb in her VW Golf, the NS track rod was bent like a banana but there was no other damage.
What a pig getting the bolts undone in this area!
They all came off on the offside eventually after a lot of fighting that covered my arms in bruises. But the nearside was predictably worse (fallout from standing water in kerb). I managed to undo just one bolt out of the 5 there and ended up with a cutting disc being put through in various places. It's all scrap anyway and I didn't want to chew even more time up trying.
Offside disconnected.
Nearside disconnected. Note the nearly new looking caliper which is actually genuine BMW. Someone appears to have cared for this car prior to the accident and it was signs like that which saved it from being broken.
Offside strut top clear and no damage.
Nearside clear now too.
The subframe and lollipop bush holder bolts all loosened up fine in preperation. And the sway bar and chassis brace came off with no issues.
The steering pipes were loosened and the system drained. The open pipes were wrapped in a cloth and cable-tied on. The steering column bolt was loosened and removed easily. 1 of the 2 rack bolts loosened, the other was stuck fast. I thought it might be easier dropping the subframe with the rack off but it probably doesn't matter.
Just the engine mount bolts to do now. Not looking forward to them.
And need to decide if I use an engine crane to support the engine during the swap, jack with a wooden packer under the sump or an engine support beam. Any suggestions?
Next up removing the donor assembly. If I end up with a fight with those bolts I'll probably cut my loses and buy secondhand parts - well I don't have any choice if they really won't shift. Subframes and complete hubs can be had for about £20 each. The issue will be I wanted to try the complete donor assembly on the car to see if it all went back together straight before committing to the £100 plus required for new wishbones etc.
Any tips for removing these difficult bolts? Plus Gas had no effect? Is it the usual recommendation of heating up? What's the most practical, low cost tool for doing that?
They all came off on the offside eventually after a lot of fighting that covered my arms in bruises. But the nearside was predictably worse (fallout from standing water in kerb). I managed to undo just one bolt out of the 5 there and ended up with a cutting disc being put through in various places. It's all scrap anyway and I didn't want to chew even more time up trying.
Offside disconnected.
Nearside disconnected. Note the nearly new looking caliper which is actually genuine BMW. Someone appears to have cared for this car prior to the accident and it was signs like that which saved it from being broken.
Offside strut top clear and no damage.
Nearside clear now too.
The subframe and lollipop bush holder bolts all loosened up fine in preperation. And the sway bar and chassis brace came off with no issues.
The steering pipes were loosened and the system drained. The open pipes were wrapped in a cloth and cable-tied on. The steering column bolt was loosened and removed easily. 1 of the 2 rack bolts loosened, the other was stuck fast. I thought it might be easier dropping the subframe with the rack off but it probably doesn't matter.
Just the engine mount bolts to do now. Not looking forward to them.
And need to decide if I use an engine crane to support the engine during the swap, jack with a wooden packer under the sump or an engine support beam. Any suggestions?
Next up removing the donor assembly. If I end up with a fight with those bolts I'll probably cut my loses and buy secondhand parts - well I don't have any choice if they really won't shift. Subframes and complete hubs can be had for about £20 each. The issue will be I wanted to try the complete donor assembly on the car to see if it all went back together straight before committing to the £100 plus required for new wishbones etc.
Any tips for removing these difficult bolts? Plus Gas had no effect? Is it the usual recommendation of heating up? What's the most practical, low cost tool for doing that?
To be honest I would go for "s*** or bust" method with a long cracking bar and hope they either undo or break off. Which ever would at least get the rack off.
Tony.
Tony.
I'm with Tony here! Long bar, tight fitting socket and brace yourself for when it snaps!! Good luck, JIM
Never used a breaker bar before. Never needed one! Sounds like a good excuse to try one
If you go this route just try to not hurt yourself if /when the bolt loosens or breaks.
Tony.
Tony.
Thanks for the warning. I'm always picking up bruises!
It's not difficult, some mechanics gloves are a good investment for such occasions.
Tony.
I'm ashamed to say I didn't take proper precuations with an angle grinder last night. I only had those cheap rubber oil-proof gloves from Poundland on. The grinder slipped and to be fair the gloves did a job. They got sliced and my palm was only lightly grazed. Hurt from the burn rather than any cut - that's how close I came.
Easily done ..............
Tony.
Tony.