Any leather experts out there

Sean d

Sean d

Zorg Expert (I)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Sep 29, 2015
Points
201
Location
Lincolnshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
Today I decided to remove the covers off the M seats and the plan was to use Neatsfoot oil on the inside to give the leather a recondition and give it that new feel,
The reason I wanted to use the inside is that it its open leather and will readily accept the oil as IMO the outside is coated and therefore non-permeable, I don't believe that there are any leather conditioners out there that will relax the leather fibres from the outside but I hope to be corrected as I can't apply it on the inside due to the fact that it has a thin layer of foam glued to it

I have done it with the gaitors and they have gone from stiff to very supple and feel like new
 
I believe if you rub the outside of the seats down to where the colouring is coming off then that should enable the leather to absorb what ever you want to put on as it is only a thin dye that is used to colour the leather JMO
 
billz said:
I believe if you rub the outside of the seats down to where the colouring is coming off then that should enable the leather to absorb what ever you want to put on as it is only a thin dye that is used to colour the leather JMO
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I have considered this pal but what concers me is the adhesion of the new colourant after the leather has been treated with oil
 
You can get a leather binder which helps the dye stick. I think Furniture Clinic may do one if not i will try and find what the guy used when he did ours
 
billz said:
You can get a leather binder which helps the dye stick. I think Furniture Clinic may do one if not i will try and find what the guy used when he did ours
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Did he treat the leather to make it more supple
 
Found this on a site dont know if it is of any use to you Sean
Dye first, then finish.

If you are having trouble getting consistent color (i.e. blotchy appearance when dry) you can use "dye prep" or moisten the material with whatever solvent is in the dye (usually alcohol) prior to dye application. For larger areas it is recommended to use a piece of woolskin as the applicator, going over the material with even strokes in one direction and repeating in perpendicular and diagonal directions. It is not necessary to saturate the leather, but don't be afraid of using too much dye.

As for softening, this is accomplished with oils, waxes, or both. Some leathers like harness and bridle are "hot stuffed" at the tannery with proprietary oil/wax blends to soften and protect the leather. Unfortunately you are limited to the colors offered as these leathers don't tend to take dye well. You can oil your leather after the dye is dry with neatsfoot oil, saddle oil, olive oil, and probably others. Again you don't want to saturate the leather which is easier to do with oils. Just give it a good wipe-down with the oil of your choice, let it sit a while and then work it over a stake or the edge of a table. Repeat if necessary to further soften, but be careful of how much oil you add. Since it doesn't evaporate it will accumulate in the leather causing it to feel oily indefinitely. Excess oil can also carry out some of the dye pigment, staining anything it touches.

You can make a centuries-old leather conditioner by melting beeswax and olive oil together. It is applied warm, to warmed leather.
http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=35659.0
 
Furniture clinic are good guys if you just ring them for advice I'm sure they will help
 
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