Another Sill refurb

[SimonT]

Well, it's been a while but the off side is now done, and I must say I am rather pleased with the results, especially as this is the first time I have got this involved with a project. It has to be said, this forum is a great place for ideas, help and inspiration, so thank you all. Not sure what's next, maybe a simple stereo swap. Roll on spring, and hopefully we can all get out and about, roof down and heated seats on of course.

 

[SimonT]

Hi all,
What are peoples thoughts on re-fitting freshly refurbed wheels. The reason for the question is, I was watching one oft the old episodes of "wheeler dealers", you know, the pukka one's with Edd, and I am sure he said to remember to take off the new powder coating around the the nut seating so that the wheel doesn't come loose later. Not sure myself so I thought I'd ask the question, also do people torque up their nuts or just give them a good wind on with the extension bar. Many thanks.
S

 

[t-tony]

Hi all,
What are peoples thoughts on re-fitting freshly refurbed wheels. The reason for the question is, I was watching one oft the old episodes of "wheeler dealers", you know, the pukka one's with Edd, and I am sure he said to remember to take off the new powder coating around the the nut seating so that the wheel doesn't come loose later. Not sure myself so I thought I'd ask the question, also do people torque up their nuts or just give them a good wind on with the extension bar. Many thanks.
S

Always, always, always tighten wheel nuts/bolts to the correct torque figure. Take careful note if you watch tyre fitters using the impact wrench to "run up" the nuts or bolts who then use a torque wrench to "check" them. If the torque wrench doesn't move and merely clicks straight away then they are already over tightened. Complain to the management. Over tightened wheels can cause cracks in the mounting holes.

Tony.

 

[SimonT]

Thanks Tony I'll order up a torque wrench.
S

 

[andyglym]

Great job mate, just getting into mine now.

 

[SimonT]

Hi all, could anyone tell me what this is and is it supposed to make a light plasticky ticking/knocking sound when the engine is on tick over. Just back from the MOT and barring a couple of roll bar bushes and rear brake pipes it was all good. While there I got them to do a service, first one in 10 years but it only did 9000 miles in that time so thought it was worth getting done. this cleaning bug is catching, first time i've cleaned an engine bay, bloody therapeutic though and even ordered some new chrome exhaust tips to keep up with you lot : )/

 

[Matt Barnes]

Thank you for the replies, they are a good morale booster.
So, continuing on, this is the progress so far. The two new BMW sills have turned up, I got busy with the wire brushes on the grinder and removed most, if not all, of the rust, hit it all with the three stage POR 15 stuff and I must say it does look a lot better. So, going forward, am I right to now prime the POR 15 then stone chip it and finally hit it with some matched aerosol paint and lacquer. Then, finally get the sills painted inside and out by a local body shop. Just remembered, I think I have to spray the inside of the structural sills with waxoyl. Does this all sound about right to you guys.
Many thanks,
Si

Morning all, I think I need to bite the bullet and do mine, has come up as Advisory in every MoT. I've seen a few vids on dismantling and from on here. Did you get the new out sills from BMW? cheers!

 

[jonco]

Morning all, I think I need to bite the bullet and do mine, has come up as Advisory in every MoT. I've seen a few vids on dismantling and from on here. Did you get the new out sills from BMW? cheers!

Have you found this one - https://zroadster.org/articles/bmw-z3-sill-removal-and-protection.67/. Dealer is best bet for new metal sill covers. If you buy on line don't forget there is difference between narrow and wide body.

 

[SimonT]

Morning all, I think I need to bite the bullet and do mine, has come up as Advisory in every MoT. I've seen a few vids on dismantling and from on here. Did you get the new out sills from BMW? cheers!

Yes, main dealer in Hailsham, E/Sussex but got the front wing from Euro car parts, quite a good fit. Good luck with your project.
S

 

[Matt Barnes]

Yes, main dealer in Hailsham, E/Sussex but got the front wing from Euro car parts, quite a good fit. Good luck with your project.
S

thanks mate...I'll have a look!

 

[Matt Barnes]

Have you found this one - https://zroadster.org/articles/bmw-z3-sill-removal-and-protection.67/. Dealer is best bet for new metal sill covers. If you buy on line don't forget there is difference between narrow and wide body.

Cheers Jonco....good point about body styles!

 

[SimonT]

Hi all,
It's been a while, but the sun is out and so was the Z, has anyone had experience with a nasty rattle, while driving, that when the handbrake is applied goes away. I thought it might be from the brake lines rattling against the back plates but after "adjusting and bending" about slightly, has made no difference. Any clues and how to fix would be much appreciated. Also saw two other convoying Zs in Hawkhurst today, which is unusual for East Sussex .

 

[colb]

That rattle may well be the internal handbrake mechanism that is rivited together and over time/wear will loosen up and produce a rattle when handbrake is in off position and the mechanism is at rest. Strip it out and give the joint a few good hammer blows to tighten the joint up to get rid of the rattle it makes.

 

[SimonT]

That rattle may well be the internal handbrake mechanism that is rivited together and over time/wear will loosen up and produce a rattle when handbrake is in off position and the mechanism is at rest. Strip it out and give the joint a few good hammer blows to tighten the joint up to get rid of the rattle it makes.

Thank you colb,
From what you say it sounds like a firm possibility and the fix you suggest is right up my street " whack with a hammer " I will give it a bash today and see what happens.
Cheers.

 

[SimonT]

Well that was a touch, took it all apart as colb suggested and found the handbrake mechanism was flapping about in the breeze with no tension on it what so ever, I then went top side and removed the handbrake gaiter. The two adjusting bolts/nuts were visible and the offending nearside adjustment nut had a good 12mm less thread poking through it, so with a bit of faffing loosened off the lock nut and tightened the adjustment nut to have approx the same amount of threading showing as the offside cable. put it all back together, went for a drive and......... tadaaaaar SILENCE!!, well, apart from the addictive exhaust note from the 2.8 straight six.

 

[SimonT]

On a bit of a roll now. So ,The Loom of Doom, Any suggestions on what to do with this, Its the bunch of wires that run through near the boot hinge. Do I just tape it all up tight with insulation tape or is there a better alternative, Once again many thanks in advance.
Cheers.

 

[Althulas]

If your wirings a bit ropey

Pardon our interruption...

There Might be cheaper options out there if you want to keep it oem looking otherwise some cloth or electrical tape will suffice.

 

[mwpe]

If your wirings a bit ropey

Pardon our interruption...

There Might be cheaper options out there if you want to keep it oem looking otherwise some cloth or electrical tape will suffice.

That repair kit is a bit pricey but it is good, I have used it but I soldered the connections rather than crimped..

 

[SimonT]

Thanks guys, It seems the wiring is in ok condition with no chaffing visible, so would it be ok to just re-wrap it with tape and then hook it back in the plastic clip carrier. Want to be sure, as there have been some nightmare stories on here with melted looms etc.
Cheers.