ABS finally sorted!..hopefully 100% this time!

[Histrally]

Well done for sorting this. It is information like this that helps all of us in the future as I am sure problems like this are not isolated.
My other "toy" is an MGC GT Sebring look alike. It is much simpler in that it has none of the what are now common place electrical systems for Anti lock etc. I have had problems with the brake pressure sensors. I love both cars but the Z3 requires a different skill set in problem solving.

 

[Jack Ratt]

Good show for sorting this, don't give up on the INPA install you will get it up and running evetually.
Did you get the BMCables discs and interface with cables 16pin OBD2 to BMW 20pin cable? Are you plugging it in to the round 20pin underbonnet socket as opposed to the 16pin OBD2 socket under the steering wheel if you have one? INPA will access all modules from the 20pin round socket the 16pin OBD socket only accesses trhe engine module.
Make sure the computer has the Com1 usb port set in the settings. Works fine on Windows Xp and Windows 7 for me.

INPA works differently on pre facelift cars as opposed to facelift cars. You cannot access the ABS module via INPA through a USB port on pre facelift car. You need to use a computer with an RS232 port and an ADS switchbox instead of the BM Cables set up. It took me ages to get mine to work.
Facelift cars are much more user friendly as far as diagnostics are concerned. Pre facelift cars use a different computer language.

 

[Fender2004]

It is very pleasing when you finally fix something that has been bugging you for a while

 

[Althulas]

Great you have finally solved your issue. I will have to check my brake light switch out as it’s only intermittently operating the brake lights and I have the brake wear pad sensor on even though I’ve replaced the rear as part of new discs etc and the fronts fine. Maybe related but need to send my instrument cluster away for check and repair for other issues.

 

[Z3I]

Well, I thought the brake light switch was the answer, and it seemed to cure the ABS light bug for a couple of days, but sadly they came back on Friday. But this time things are different. Firstly at a point of starting up, I think last Thursday, just 100yds from home, I applied the brake and felt the car shudder as if the ABS came in effect. It only happened the once, and the pedal felt harder after that.

Now, the light come on at startup, I drive a few hundred yards, stop, wait 30 secs, restart, and within 100 yards, lights go out and stay out.

Chatting to a garage friend, who's an expert on BMWs, he said its probably air in the fluid in the pump. Quizzing me on the way I bled the bakes, without any pressure, he thinks that's where the problem, or one of the problems lies!

So I could be on the track to a solution, I've just ordered a pressure bleeder.

On the plus side, whilst the spanners were out again, I've fixed the seat guide bushes on the passenger side, so seat nice and firm, plus remade the speedo wiring at the diff that affected the fuel guage.

 

[Sean d]

Well, I thought the brake light switch was the answer, and it seemed to cure the ABS light bug for a couple of days, but sadly they came back on Friday. But this time things are different. Firstly at a point of starting up, I think last Thursday, just 100yds from home, I applied the brake and felt the car shudder as if the ABS came in effect. It only happened the once, and the pedal felt harder after that.

Now, the light come on at startup, I drive a few hundred yards, stop, wait 30 secs, restart, and within 100 yards, lights go out and stay out.

Chatting to a garage friend, who's an expert on BMWs, he said its probably air in the fluid in the pump. Quizzing me on the way I bled the bakes, without any pressure, he thinks that's where the problem, or one of the problems lies!

So I could be on the track to a solution, I've just ordered a pressure bleeder.

On the plus side, whilst the spanners were out again, I've fixed the seat guide bushes on the passenger side, so seat nice and firm, plus remade the speedo wiring at the diff that affected the fuel guage.

Sorry to hear the problem is back but glad to hear what your BMW guy said as I think I have the same issue, my pedal is poor as I have air in the system and the abs lights are on, its something I will address as the build goes on

 

[Z3I]

Sorry to hear the problem is back but glad to hear what your BMW guy said as I think I have the same issue, my pedal is poor as I have air in the system and the abs lights are on, its something I will address as the build goes on

So the exact advice I got, was buy a pressure bleeder, the sort that you pump up to 1 to 1.5 bar. As you bleed the blakes this will force the fluid through, and in most instances take any air through with it. Ordinary bleeding is too gentle to clear the ABS part of the system.

However to be 100% sure, he said to run the INPA software that circulates the ABS pump at the same time you bleed the system. This moves on any air bubbles in the pump system.

Still haven't got my INPA software working though.

Z3's are a job for life!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372116750044

That's the pump I've bought

 

[littlefeller]

Good show for sorting this, don't give up on the INPA install you will get it up and running evetually.
Did you get the BMCables discs and interface with cables 16pin OBD2 to BMW 20pin cable? Are you plugging it in to the round 20pin underbonnet socket as opposed to the 16pin OBD2 socket under the steering wheel if you have one? INPA will access all modules from the 20pin round socket the 16pin OBD socket only accesses trhe engine module.
Make sure the computer has the Com1 usb port set in the settings. Works fine on Windows Xp and Windows 7 for me.

also works on windows 8 and 10.

 

[Z3I]

also works on windows 8 and 10.

Do you use a USB port for input?

 

[littlefeller]

INPA works differently on pre facelift cars as opposed to facelift cars. You cannot access the ABS module via INPA through a USB port on pre facelift car. You need to use a computer with an RS232 port and an ADS switchbox instead of the BM Cables set up. It took me ages to get mine to work.
Facelift cars are much more user friendly as far as diagnostics are concerned. Pre facelift cars use a different computer language.

on my pre-facelift I can get the abs to actuate in a kind of test mode, or am I remembering something that didn't happen

 

[littlefeller]

Do you use a USB port for input?

yes.

 

[littlefeller]

im sure that while trying to fix my asc module I came across the abs test mode, im fairly sure it worked.

 

[Z3I]

yes.

Might have another look after lunch!

 

[littlefeller]

mine is running on windows 10 with no issues so far, supposedly the best platform for inpa was xp (cant remember why exactly, it may have something to do with serial ports or something along those lines, this may also be something that @Jack Ratt ran into).

 

[Z3I]

Well I had another try. I may have ignored it before, but this time it was asking for a driver for the USB cable. So needless to say its not on the chip or on the INPA files, so searched the internet. Found the file ftdibus.inf, used it as the driver, and restarted.

Still no communication! Just a couple of questions though, when you start INPA and connect the cable, at the top above model choice on the screen should you see "battery on" and "ignition on" ?? That is, blacked in circle, giving an indication something is connected? And on the clear adapter, should switch be to the left or right for DCAN?

All seems to be born in China somewhere, with little in the way of a full explanation!

 

[littlefeller]

are you using bmcables install? I may have the usb driver but it would only work for bmcables install I would have thought.

 

[littlefeller]

Well I had another try. I may have ignored it before, but this time it was asking for a driver for the USB cable. So needless to say its not on the chip or on the INPA files, so searched the internet. Found the file ftdibus.inf, used it as the driver, and restarted.

Still no communication! Just a couple of questions though, when you start INPA and connect the cable, at the top above model choice on the screen should you see "battery on" and "ignition on" ?? That is, blacked in circle, giving an indication something is connected? And on the clear adapter, should switch be to the left or right for DCAN?

All seems to be born in China somewhere, with little in the way of a full explanation!

I always connect the cable first then start the software, you also need the ignition switched on but not running.

 

[Z3I]

Ok, here's an update!

I received the pressure bleeder last Wednesday, and couldn't wait to have a go Thursday.

So, all 4 wheels off and everything exposed. Looked at my brake fluid, and because of all the previous gravity bleeding, it is nice and clear.

I connected the pressure bleeder according to the instructions, pumped it up to 1.2bar, and then inspected all my work. Found 1 union at the front with a minute trace of fluid, so tightened further. This is a big plus point of the feeder, revealing leaks, although what I think I found had no consequence.

Released the pressure, and filled the pump with fluid, 2 ltrs, nice and gentle, no new bubbles created, created a small amount of pressure to push the fluid up the pipe as nurses do in hyperdermic needles, then reconnected it to the reservoir. Pumped it up to 1.2 bar again,.

Bled the rear nearside first, then offside rear, then nearside front, then offside front. Used about 1 to 1.5 ltrs, to make sure fluid was all new. This operation with the pump is oh so easy! During the bleed, no new bubbles

Having satisfied myself I've bled the system 100%, released the pressure, and disconnected. Cannot emphasise enough how easy and quick this was.

Next the test. Before starting the pedal was rock solid, more so than before.

The started, immediately the ABS light were out! Then out on the road the brakes were so responsive, pedal harder than before I started.

Back home, garaged the car, and then turned on the ignition to check light out, and all ok all night.

Next morning, tested again, all out1 Before light would have reappeared.

Saturday the same, lights out on starting ignition!

I was away for the weekend, came back today, could not wait, started car, lights still out. Best results yet! Just took it for a run, rakes still 100%, like new, and all lights out.

So I'm considering case solved. I think I had more than one problem, but for sure, the pressure bleeder is a tool I wish I had bought 25 years ago. Can only recommend that you buy one if you have brake and ABS problems, as if it does not cure any problem you have, it tests the systems fully, and gives superb braking.

 

[Sean d]

Ok, here's an update!

I received the pressure bleeder last Wednesday, and couldn't wait to have a go Thursday.

So, all 4 wheels off and everything exposed. Looked at my brake fluid, and because of all the previous gravity bleeding, it is nice and clear.

I connected the pressure bleeder according to the instructions, pumped it up to 1.2bar, and then inspected all my work. Found 1 union at the front with a minute trace of fluid, so tightened further. This is a big plus point of the feeder, revealing leaks, although what I think I found had no consequence.

Released the pressure, and filled the pump with fluid, 2 ltrs, nice and gentle, no new bubbles created, created a small amount of pressure to push the fluid up the pipe as nurses do in hyperdermic needles, then reconnected it to the reservoir. Pumped it up to 1.2 bar again,.

Bled the rear nearside first, then offside rear, then nearside front, then offside front. Used about 1 to 1.5 ltrs, to make sure fluid was all new. This operation with the pump is oh so easy! During the bleed, no new bubbles

Having satisfied myself I've bled the system 100%, released the pressure, and disconnected. Cannot emphasise enough how easy and quick this was.

Next the test. Before starting the pedal was rock solid, more so than before.

The started, immediately the ABS light were out! Then out on the road the brakes were so responsive, pedal harder than before I started.

Back home, garaged the car, and then turned on the ignition to check light out, and all ok all night.

Next morning, tested again, all out1 Before light would have reappeared.

Saturday the same, lights out on starting ignition!

I was away for the weekend, came back today, could not wait, started car, lights still out. Best results yet! Just took it for a run, rakes still 100%, like new, and all lights out.

So I'm considering case solved. I think I had more than one problem, but for sure, the pressure bleeder is a tool I wish I had bought 25 years ago. Can only recommend that you buy one if you have brake and ABS problems, as if it does not cure any problem you have, it tests the systems fully, and gives superb braking.

Fantastic news, I used a pressure bleeder and was equally impressed however I think I was a bit tight with the fluid and just need to run more through.

 

[Althulas]

Glad you got there in the end what a relief for you and info for others and myself to be armed with.