#ZedShed 2006 E85 Z4 M Roadster rear sub frame rebuild

Pingu

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Make sure that you reinstall the chain tensioner properly. I can't remember what you do, but it could be fill it with oil then press it twice. Check out the TIS. There is probably nothing wrong with it. It probably just needs a good clean and some clean oil.

Here's me fitting a used chain tensioner...


Are the LSD clutch pack supplied by Porsche? The S50 ones are. The S50 LSD is made by ZF. ZF don't supply clutch packs, but Porsche do.

Why do you need the LSD additive if you haven't changed the clutch packs? I think it just means that you will need to replace the oil in 1000 miles to remove the additive.
 

GazHyde

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Make sure that you reinstall the chain tensioner properly. I can't remember what you do, but it could be fill it with oil then press it twice. Check out the TIS. There is probably nothing wrong with it. It probably just needs a good clean and some clean oil.

Here's me fitting a used chain tensioner...

Thanks. Lee has checked the procedure with our tame local BMW tech, so I'll be sure to update back here when it's done.
Are the LSD clutch pack supplied by Porsche? The S50 ones are. The S50 LSD is made by ZF. ZF don't supply clutch packs, but Porsche do.
No idea as we didn't need to replace them, we did find a couple of sources but I don't have the links to hand.
Why do you need the LSD additive if you haven't changed the clutch packs? I think it just means that you will need to replace the oil in 1000 miles to remove the additive.
I bought the friction modifier as I assumed the clutch packs would need replacing with the mileage it was on. I've read various articles on changing the oil on this type of diff and there are 2 different types available from BMW. One with FM and one without. I've gone for the current equivalent Castrol which BMW rebrand and sell, and that doesn't include FM.

Realoem lists 83222365988 specifically for my car, but 83222282583 is also valid for the Z4. "Genuine BMW Mini Saf-xj FM Booster 75w140 83222282583 SAE Oil 500ml". Schmeidman list that pn as "Final drive oil SAF-XJ, original BMW 0,5 litre can. Includes friction modifiers to reduce noise during low speed cornering" for E82 E90 E90 LCI E92 E92 LCI E93 E93 LCI Z4 (E85) Z4 (E86) M2 CS Racing.

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Pingu

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I suspect the one with FM is the one loaded in the factory to help bed-in the new clutch packs. This is drained after 1200 miles and (I think) replaced with the one with no FM.

Even though BMW don't supply clutch packs, the FM stuff needs to be available in case anyone fits a new LSD.
 

Lee

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Make sure that you reinstall the chain tensioner properly. I can't remember what you do, but it could be fill it with oil then press it twice. Check out the TIS. There is probably nothing wrong with it. It probably just needs a good clean and some clean oil.

Here's me fitting a used chain tensioner...


Are the LSD clutch pack supplied by Porsche? The S50 ones are. The S50 LSD is made by ZF. ZF don't supply clutch packs, but Porsche do.

Why do you need the LSD additive if you haven't changed the clutch packs? I think it just means that you will need to replace the oil in 1000 miles to remove the additive.
As far as I'm aware there is nothing to this tensioner, you simply remove the old tensioner and fit the new tensioner and new O-ring. I spoke with our local BMW specialist RBM who said they've changed many of these as it's a common leak point.
 

GazHyde

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Update time on day 4 - all the bushes! Most of the day it was @Oldguysrule and myself but we made great progress until our supervisor turned up mid afternoon :)

It's another "bitsa" day, just trying to make progress in to the huge collection of bits and parts. We still have some more bits to paint so we got Trev setup on the bench, main thing to paint was the diff.

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Before we started on prepping it for paint we removed the 2 ear bushes, which pretty much fell out will minimal effort. If you look carefully you'll see the OEM bush cores are oval, so must allow for some lateral movement of the diff (remember that for later).
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Definitely the correct call to replace these, they are mush.
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Fitted the new PowerFlex Black bushes which are 3 piece, 2 poly sections pushed in from either side and a central aluminium core. The central core on these are circular, not oval. I'm keeping an open mind about these now they are fitted, will see how they go...
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While I left Trev painting I quickly change the gearbox oil and then got on with the 4 x subframe bushes. The 2 rear are the same part number, but the fronts are two different part numbers. The reason for this is that one of the fronts has an oval core and the other circular. Not 100% on the reason for this other than to make lining up the subframe easier when removing/reinstalling at a vague guess.

For this procedure it really pays off taking photos as you take stuff apart, lots of photos. The bushes are all directional in one orientation and have triangles in the rubber. However the diagrams don't tell you what direction they need to face, so referring back to my iPhone library I could zoom in on a previous picture and see that the triangles point to the front and rear of the car. Always take photos.
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Then it's a simple assembly of threaded rod and a large socket for the bush to pull through in to. The socket is essential as the bush protrudes through the subframe, and this allows full insertion! A nice coating of grease on the bush helps. Rinse and repeat 4 times.
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Back to Trev, who quite frankly has outdone himself this time. It looks almost new, not bad for a 15 year old diff!
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aaaand, back to the bushes... This time the rear trailing arm bushes. We actually have a Z4 trailing arm bush removal tool, which includes a metal insert for pulling bushes in again. Again a thick coating of grease and simple threaded rod setup and ease them in.
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Each trailing arm has a top and bottom ball joint, again pretty similar puller setup but using 2 large sockets on either end. No specific pics of that, just and after shot showing them at the top and bottom. You'll also notice that we pushed the new Meyle HD wheel bearings in as well.
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This is a complete trailing arm, next stage will be to fit the hub and build the brakes on to it.
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There are still more bushes to go, but the supervisor arrived home and got stuck in as well.

Lower camber arm bushes.
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Upper wishbone bushes:
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Final job for the day is to remove the wheel bearing race from the hub face. This happens on every rebuild, Z3 or Z4 when you pull the hubs. There are a couple of ways to do this, and we found it easier to cut the race this time around. Think this is how we will do Z4's in the future, it's just quicker than heating and beating on it with a chisel.
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Back on it again tomorrow, hoping to have the subframe back on the car.
 

Jack Ratt

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Great work guys. Don't think you'd get this much attention to detail if you took it to a BMW specialist. Very well done, you all deserve a few :beer:beer🍻
 

GazHyde

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Day 5 - Subframe reassembly!

A full compliment of peeps in today including @pgunter, @Rally and @mwpe! There was so much going on it's hard to keep a track, this has been a full on build and I've enjoyed every minute so far. Hoping for wheels down after a rare Sunday session tomorrow.

More reassembly pics, starting off with putting the hubs, brake shields and shoes.

These are the original brake shields blasted and powder coated, look almost brand new.
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Hubs refitted along with the brake shoes. Kicking myself for not ordering a new set of brake furniture, but these are all hidden behind the mahoosive rear discs. They were all checked for function and then refitted, I don't use the handbrake much anyway - I'm old school leave it in gear when parked.
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Top adjuster
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Bottom handbrake cable pull mechanism
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Test fitting the disc to check the shoes are mostly where we need them, will be set correctly when on the car. Ooooh, those discs 😍
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While the diff was on the bench, filled it with Castrol TRANSMAX Limited Slip LL 75W-140 Fully Synthetic Hypoid Gear Oil, and half a bottle of Red Line Limited-Slip Differential Friction Modifier (instructions as per bottle). Just levelled the diff on the bench, took out the filler plug and poured the oil in till it started to overfill. The FM was added in to the oil bottle part way through.
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Next to the subframe reassembly. We had some figuring out to do with the Powerflex bushes, the instructions not 100% it's mainly a bit of common sense along with the photos supplied.

This is the diff bolted in to the subframe, you can't see the bushes from this picture but she's in and torqued down. We did have to unbolt it and retorque it later as some the camber arm bolt on one side can't be inserted unless you move the diff over slightly. We all stood and took a minute at this point, this looks soooo good...
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Front Powerflex bush fitted as per their instructions. Washer, washer, then crush washer.
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Then we drop it off the bench and start building everything back up again. This is part way through, upper wishbones & camber arms holding the trailing arms in place waiting to attach the half shafts to the diff and fit the anti roll bar.
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The anti roll bar fitted, bolts to the back of the subframe unlike the Z3 where it attaches to the bottom of the car.
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Fully reassembled ready to be offered up to the car.
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We tried something different this time and utilised the gearbox jack which worked perfectly - so much easier than balancing it on a standard trolley jack.
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....and she's back in and bolted in place.
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Left Lee to get everything all checked over, tightened and torqued to specification where required while I got on with rebuilding the calipers. Started off with cleaning them to remove all the grit blast remains with the help of the air compressor. Once I was happy with them it was out with the Bigg Red seal kits.

Calipers now dry after a nice coating of black Hammerite.
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Front caliper seals and piston refitted. We inspected the pistons and they are spot on, just a bit of corrosion on the outside when it touches the pads.
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Rear caliper seals are a bit more of pain to refit as they cling to the outside, but we got there. The rear pistons have slightly worse corrosion but only on the face which touches the pads.
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New brake bleed nipples fitted, and caliper slides suitably packed with silicon grease.
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The discs are fitted ready for the calipers and braided lines tomorrow. The hubs have had a light spray of clear laquer to seal them and make them easier to clean in the future (thanks to Rally for the tip!).
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We've almost run out of parts to fit, just a set of pads and braided brake & clutch lines left in the boot.
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GazHyde

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Brilliant job, so satisfying when it all comes together.
I think all of us have enjoyed this for various reasons, think a fair bit as it's something different to a Z3 for a complete change! We've done so many and they are almost done without any real thought process, a copy/paste procedure. Nice to get the brain cells working on a whole range of differences between the two, and where we can improve the process for the next Z4's we work on.

I was expecting cost wise for it to spiral, and actually I'm really chuffed with where it ended up. I will likely post up a full cost analysis for the parts at some stage, can't put a price on all the man hours of course.
 

t-tony

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Bound to have taken longer when you think about it. Different car, different parts to order, some slightly different rebuilding techniques etc. It's been a learning curve after all and interesting to see another type of Z getting the HQ treatment.

Tony.

ps. Someday Andy will be stocking E85 bits too.;)
 

Mint

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She's alive again. Yet another brilliant refurb by the Zedshed crew. Well done all, this thread is a great read :thumbsup:
 

GazHyde

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I've come to work for a rest, that felt like a triathlon.
As I said yesterday I need to take a couple of days holiday before going back to work for a rest 😆
 

GazHyde

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Day 6 - refitting everything else!

There isn't a huge amount to the final reassembly day, mainly because it was busy and the majority of it was fairly dull like refitting the exhaust and the large amount of undertrays.

There were a couple of jobs which weren't really related to this which I've detailed on my main progress thread, links below for those.
What we do have is some nice pics of the shinier stuff that people like, so lets kick off with some brakes!

EBC Yellow Stuff and HEL braided brake lines are our combination of choice - expensive but entirely worth it. There are 6 lines in total for the Z4M, 4 rear and 2 front. £150 for the lines and £80 for the pads.
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Brand spanking new BMW OEM 328mm rear discs. These are the same as fitted to the E46 M3 and 12mm bigger than the Z3M front discs. Pleasantly affordable at £215 a pair delivered from a BMW dealer through eBay. You can see the HEL braided lines joining the hard lines in the upper left. The discs have had a light spray coating of lacquer to make them easier to clear later on.
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Calipers look ace with a fresh coat of paint. If you look closely at this picture you may see a slight issue we rectified later in the day!
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Front brake tidy up as everything looks good up front except for changing the brake lines.
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Trev gave the front discs a good clean up and coat of silver Hammerite. Refitted the calipers. You can see that the exhaust mid sections have been refitted as you can see the cats hanging in the background.
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Checking wheel nut torque after first test drive up the top of the road and back. You can see the laquer overspray is starting to be scuffed off by the pads.
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and that's it for the technical side of the rebuild - she's finished!

I've driven maybe 25 miles since wheels down, a couple of shield rattles but no major clangs or clunks! Need to get it booked in for a full 4 wheel geometry this week before I get a full understanding of how she drives.

Will be doing a couple more posts over the coming weeks where I'll be talking about how much more awesome it drives (it does even with iffy geometry), and cover some of the parts costs and how much labour we put in to this build.

For now, I get to drive it. Good news is she's pretty much ready for @Nodzed's run next weekend!
 

GazHyde

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A bit about costs in the form of an extract from my maintenance spreadsheet. This is not the complete cost or what I've spent out on this. Not included either the diff refurb or powder coating as those are deals we have negotiated with local suppliers. We can't calculate the labour costs either as we don't have an hourly rate other than our full time day jobs. Suffice it to days 6 days x 3 people x 8 hours = c144 hours as a conservative estimate. This also doesn't include the time I've spent hunched over realoem, researching "better" parts and then sourcing them, or the driving to deliver/parts from here and there. Of course next one we would likely bring that amount of time down somewhat, but likely not close to what we can do a Z3 in. There are just so many more bits involved!

I strongly recommend anyone finding this in the future spends their own time on realoem, and I've deliberately hidden the part number column to encourage that. Some parts are common across all Z4 models and some are M specific.

You can see from the supplier column that our local BMW dealer supplied a fair amount. The rest split across known reputable suppliers such as Opie and Bigg Red, and then random eBay suppliers. There was one supplier that I had to duplicate an order because they took an age to ship and then put on the cheapest Royal Mail delivery option (only use lllparts if you aren't in a rush!). Luckily it was only a nut and bolt, and BMW Marshall got those in stock next day so no delay. Ironically, I ordered the wrong nut from the first supplier anyway. I messed up 1 single part and it was the 2nd cheapest on the list. LOL.

Always nervous buying from random companies off eBay, but didn't have a single problem with the wrong part or them not being delivered in a reasonable time. Some of them delivered incredibly quickly, way before their shipping estimate. There is also the whole "it says Meyle in the advert and the pictures, but it's actually a cheap knock off" when it arrives situation, but everything for once as advertised and genuine!

Rather nicely some Z4M parts are shared, for example rear wheel bearings with the E36/E46 M3, E38, X3, Z3M, Z8 to name a few. A wide spread like this means Meyle make them and they are damned good value at £50 a pair! Realoem really does pay off when researching parts, couldn't have done this without.

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Nodzed

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Day 6 - refitting everything else!

There isn't a huge amount to the final reassembly day, mainly because it was busy and the majority of it was fairly dull like refitting the exhaust and the large amount of undertrays.

There were a couple of jobs which weren't really related to this which I've detailed on my main progress thread, links below for those.
What we do have is some nice pics of the shinier stuff that people like, so lets kick off with some brakes!

EBC Yellow Stuff and HEL braided brake lines are our combination of choice - expensive but entirely worth it. There are 6 lines in total for the Z4M, 4 rear and 2 front. £150 for the lines and £80 for the pads.
View attachment 204263

View attachment 204265

Brand spanking new BMW OEM 328mm rear discs. These are the same as fitted to the E46 M3 and 12mm bigger than the Z3M front discs. Pleasantly affordable at £215 a pair delivered from a BMW dealer through eBay. You can see the HEL braided lines joining the hard lines in the upper left. The discs have had a light spray coating of lacquer to make them easier to clear later on.
View attachment 204267

Calipers look ace with a fresh coat of paint. If you look closely at this picture you may see a slight issue we rectified later in the day!
View attachment 204269

Front brake tidy up as everything looks good up front except for changing the brake lines.
View attachment 204271

Trev gave the front discs a good clean up and coat of silver Hammerite. Refitted the calipers. You can see that the exhaust mid sections have been refitted as you can see the cats hanging in the background.
View attachment 204273

Checking wheel nut torque after first test drive up the top of the road and back. You can see the laquer overspray is starting to be scuffed off by the pads.
View attachment 204275

and that's it for the technical side of the rebuild - she's finished!

I've driven maybe 25 miles since wheels down, a couple of shield rattles but no major clangs or clunks! Need to get it booked in for a full 4 wheel geometry this week before I get a full understanding of how she drives.

Will be doing a couple more posts over the coming weeks where I'll be talking about how much more awesome it drives (it does even with iffy geometry), and cover some of the parts costs and how much labour we put in to this build.

For now, I get to drive it. Good news is she's pretty much ready for @Nodzed's run next weekend!
Mate thats looking fast :whistle: =)) Great rebuild.
 

GazHyde

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First chance to put the rebuilt M through it's paces on a long roundtrip of about 250 miles today over a wide variety of roads surfaces, motorway/dual carriage way and the best and worst A/B roads on offer in Niall's stomping grounds. Had a full Hunter geometry earlier this week, which got all the wheels pointing in (mostly) the correct direction (need new track rods up front now!). I'll do a post at some stage about that whole thing, because there were some issues with the tech who carried it out.

Negatives first. A tiny bit of a squeak from the brakes at low speed up to about 25mph. I'll go back in there with some copper grease at some stage.

The positives are literally everything about how it drives/handles. It's so composed over all surfaces including some of the wash board / potholed sections, nothing phased it. It's firmer for sure as there is no slop/give from the failing bushes but I guess this is as close to how it came out the factory, since it left the factory. That firmness doesn't translate at all in to harshness in any form. On the motorway on cruise control it just sits quite happily plodding along.

Before we started this my biggest issue with the car was accelerating from a junction (for example) would trigger the traction control and it would then drain all the power till it sorted itself out. Now this is entirely as per design and how TC works, but it was happening a lot and was really causing more issues being overly intrusive. The difference now under the same conditions is that the TC light flickers (as a warning) but it doesn't back the power off as aggressively. This means that when I'm pulling out at a junction "under load" I don't end up in a TC induced mess with traffic bearing down on me. This coupled with the clutch delay valve (now removed) causing it to kangaroo was just getting me very nervous at junctions. Now it just hooks up the power and away I go, no drama or panic - pretty much like how BMW designed it I reckon.

Maybe if we'd have carried all this out on my previous 3.0si I'd have been more in love with it, but honestly it just wasn't the car to invest this kind of time, effort and money on - so I wouldn't have. The moral of this tale I guess is find the right car, then you'll likely want to keep it and lavish attention on it.
 
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