2001 battery tie-down (near-emergency)

[yellowjacket]

Hi all - I'm in a pickle with the battery of my 01 Zed. It didn't come with any tie-down and a secured battery is required for a track event in about two weeks. I've tried loosening the long bolt (circled bottom), but it somewhat predictably snapped off near the base. I could conceivably order a new one, pull the battery and try to clean out the broken bit, which may be a long shot. I have the clamp piece that attaches to the top of the bolt, though it doesn't seem properly shaped to work with the installed battery (not allowing enough height from the top of the bolt.)

I'm wondering whether anyone has had luck with a little improvisation here. The long slot on the right (also circled) would seem to be a start for some other kind of bracket. I could drill into the left side of the truck bottom (beyond the plastic) and maybe simply use a metal strap.

Thanks for any suggestions--I hope to get this sorted out soon.

 

[t-tony]

I would get a piece of flat steel which will fit through the slotted hole. Bend an "S" bend so that it slips through the slot and then will pull down across the top of the battery. You could then drill a hole in the end of the flat bar and fasten it down opposite the "slot" with a self-drilling self tapping bolt, or two in line? If you need to take up the gap between the flat bar and the top of the battery can you use a piece of wood or not for Regs.? Hope this makes sense?

Tony.

 

[t-tony]

IF you can get at the bottom end of the broken hold down bolt under the car you may find the you could unscrew the bolt downwards using Mole Grips (Vise-Grips).

Tony.

 

[yellowjacket]

Thanks for these excellent thoughts, Tony. I'm leaning toward one of these two. I'd prefer not to have to pull the battery, but it's probably gonna be necessary for either fix. The replacement long screws seem to be backrodered across the board, a problem even if I could get that frozen bolt out--I might be better off installing a replacement improvised from a long threaded (screw) rod. This at least is pretty simple and close to OE. The flat steel is appealing (easier) but there's no place for it do attach on the left--the closest thing is the plastic tool tray, and getting that out means dropping the spare. Ah, the drawbacks of small cars.

 

[DelGue]

I would get a piece of flat steel which will fit through the slotted hole. Bend an "S" bend so that it slips through the slot and then will pull down across the top of the battery. You could then drill a hole in the end of the flat bar and fasten it down opposite the "slot" with a self-drilling self tapping bolt, or two in line? If you need to take up the gap between the flat bar and the top of the battery can you use a piece of wood or not for Regs.? Hope this makes sense?

Tony.

What Tony said. I've done pretty much the same sort of "adapt, improvise, overcome" repair on a couple of vehicles I've owned.

 

[Lee]

The battery clamp actually sits down at the base of the battery with a long bar sticking up with a hex head.

Edit: missed your first post about the bolt snapping. I would go with Tonys suggestion!

 

[yellowjacket]

The battery clamp actually sits down at the base of the battery with a long bar sticking up with a hex head.

Edit: missed your first post about the bolt snapping. I would go with Tonys suggestion!

View attachment 124455

Ah, so it clamps down at the base of the battery, not at the top! (There's no picture in Bentley.) I'm encouraged that there's what looks like a grippable element at the base of the screw so I could get the thing out. Is there any way you could part with one of those beauties pictured? This might be a long shot, though, since I need it installed a week from tomorrow, and there's all that water between.

With Tony's suggestion requires drilling into the metal in the trunk--the easiest route might be to attach a metal strap at the top and bottom of the battery well. (Wish I could use the slot on the right, but there's nothing on the left except the tool tray for a while).

Sorry if it sounds ignorant, but is it hard to use a self-tapping/self-drilling bolt? Will it make a hole in the hefty trunk metal? I think I've got a mental picture of how this can be done, it's getting the screws/bolts in there at this point which seems to be the challenge. Thanks.

 

[t-tony]

Let me have a look at a Z3 tomorrow and I'll get pictures.

Tony.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

These https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/86Pcs-Th...498207&hash=item4433630fee:g:0HUAAOSwJ4Va9VK3 must be available over there, pretty damn useful in the right circumstances. Used plenty of them in the past, and not had one fail yet. Being a variation on a pop-rivet you only need to get to one side of the panel they go in.

 

[yellowjacket]

I took the plunge and secured the battery using pipe strapping, basically 3/4" wide 38-gauge sheetmetal that comes with hole punched in it. I used two self-tapping screws (the rivets seemed more complicated) aft on the vertical rear wall of the battery box and two for on the horizontal metal behind and to the right of the tool box. (see picture) I wrapped the metal over the battery with duct tape since the naked steel near the terminals made me nervous. Thanks to you all for helping me figure this out.

One question: from an engineer's POV, why is the battery secured in the first place, or more specifically why would this be required for track work? Is it for the possibility that the car flips, so the battery doesn't fly around and cause damage? Or is it to reduce the rattle/movement factor (in which case I'll need to wedge something underneath)?

 

[the Nefyn cat]

The battery will be a plastic box with a load of acid inside, and also vented to the atmosphere to allow any gasses discharged during use to dissipate. Not the sort of thing you'd want wobbling about inside a car. They may well be tucked away somewhere out of sight on the more modern cars, but not so long ago you'd have found them under the bonnet, next to the engine, and in a far more exposed position, made even more sense to tie it down nice and tight back then.
You said in your first post just up there that you're going in for some track event soon, and the scrutineers or whoever have to consider the worst-possible-case scenario, in which the car goes barrel-rolling a few times scattering bits about as it goes. That is when it'll seem like a good idea to have a big heavy lump full of acid tied down securely.

 

[t-tony]

Also to prevent risk of fire through positive post shorting out to the car body. A dead short could/would even make the battery explode if it has been “gassing” .

Tony.

 

[yellowjacket]

The strapping is pretty strong, but to cinch it up I'm going to wedge in a rolled-up silicone mat so there's no wiggle room. Silicone would check the boxes for durability and non-conductivity.

In the long run, I'd feel better with the OE long hex if I can locate one. Thanks for the input, all.

 

[t-tony]

I took these yesterday in case they help at all.

Tony.

 

[yellowjacket]

Thanks for the insight both, and the pics, Tony. I'm going to start a new thread and ask whether anyone has two of those bolts lying around. I'd really like to use the OE setup at some point in the future.

 

[yellowjacket]

Nevermind--I found them through Parts Geek, $30 for two, shipped. They won't be in time for this track event, but almost certainly for the next.

 

[DelGue]

Is the track event at Barber Motorsport Park? Love that track, did a Porsche track say once, and went to a formula bmw event a friend was racing. I was living in Guntersville at the time. Good luck, man!

 

[yellowjacket]

Yes, Del, it's at Barber. It's my 19-year-old son's first event (he'll be driving a Civic) and we'll be going up early for the museum the day before. Good to hear another positive review about Barber.