Odd you say that when my car came from the UK and is rust free underneath. Must have been someone with OCD cleaning under it! JIM
Which adjustable camber rear camber set to choose?
- Thread starter Dobiwallah
- Start date
It has most likely to do with the fact that no salt is trown on the roads here in this part of New Zealand in the winter. And altough it is my daily driver with about 10.000km a year, I always park it inside, just what the previous owner did
This morning I started with the anti roll bar bushes. The two middle ones were the easiest. It is important to have the opening of the bushes at the long end of the bracket.
The two smaller bushes on the little arm took a bit more effort. First I tried to push them out with a c-clamp, but that didn't work. Then I tried a knife and cut them out, that didn't work either
. I searched in my toolbox and found a bolt, nut, washer and a old socket. That worked, with a vice I was able to push it out with not a lot of effort. The socket was prepared 30 years ago for the pully of my Simca Ariane.
Parts and tool disassembled
Because the rubber is probably vulcanised in the housing, part of the rubber stayed in it. How to remove this?
I found a 25mm high speed wood drill which fitted perfectly. With a really slow speed I was able to scrape most of the rubber out of the housing without damaging the housing.
The rest I cleaned with a wire brush.
The new bushes popped in easily with some help of ms. Dobiwallahs dish washer liquid.
the other side had a metal cylinder in the bush. I prepared the bush with some grease. The bushes have a surface inside which is holding the grease tight if you press the cylinder in.
Pushing the cylinder in.
Et voila, almost done!
The trailer arm bushes was a different story. Again I tried several methods without success. On the end I found a large socket which I bought several months ago to get the wheels off of my sons Primera P10. The socket was not long enough to pull the old bushes totally out, but the last 10mm I could pull out by hand.
That's how the old bushes looks like. It looks like nothing is wrong with it, but in the meantime my rear tire was wearing out excessively. My toe was over 1 degree.
That doesn't look too bad inside
New vs old bushes
You get plenty of grease with the strongflex bushes
The bushes sliding in easily.
This is how I first tried to push the metal cylinders in. They went in, but on the other end the bushes came out. Not a success.
A gap between the frame and bush. I did this one three times.
I tried to push it back on this way, but that didn't work
This is the best way to do it. Push it in from the thick side side to the thin wall side with a threaded rod and a large washer at the thin wall side.
The two smaller bushes on the little arm took a bit more effort. First I tried to push them out with a c-clamp, but that didn't work. Then I tried a knife and cut them out, that didn't work either
. I searched in my toolbox and found a bolt, nut, washer and a old socket. That worked, with a vice I was able to push it out with not a lot of effort. The socket was prepared 30 years ago for the pully of my Simca Ariane.
Parts and tool disassembled
Because the rubber is probably vulcanised in the housing, part of the rubber stayed in it. How to remove this?
I found a 25mm high speed wood drill which fitted perfectly. With a really slow speed I was able to scrape most of the rubber out of the housing without damaging the housing.
The rest I cleaned with a wire brush.
The new bushes popped in easily with some help of ms. Dobiwallahs dish washer liquid.
the other side had a metal cylinder in the bush. I prepared the bush with some grease. The bushes have a surface inside which is holding the grease tight if you press the cylinder in.
Pushing the cylinder in.
Et voila, almost done!
The trailer arm bushes was a different story. Again I tried several methods without success. On the end I found a large socket which I bought several months ago to get the wheels off of my sons Primera P10. The socket was not long enough to pull the old bushes totally out, but the last 10mm I could pull out by hand.
That's how the old bushes looks like. It looks like nothing is wrong with it, but in the meantime my rear tire was wearing out excessively. My toe was over 1 degree.
That doesn't look too bad inside
New vs old bushes
You get plenty of grease with the strongflex bushes
The bushes sliding in easily.
This is how I first tried to push the metal cylinders in. They went in, but on the other end the bushes came out. Not a success.
A gap between the frame and bush. I did this one three times.
I tried to push it back on this way, but that didn't work
This is the best way to do it. Push it in from the thick side side to the thin wall side with a threaded rod and a large washer at the thin wall side.
Great write up @Dobiwallah 
Today I haven't done a lot. Only the differential bush and some side work. I temporarily connected the callipers and flushed the brake fluid. That stuff was pretty dark. And then I found a red spray can of my oldest son, and borrowed some spray for my rear callipers.
The differential bush looked at first sight as new.
To get it out, I needed to make a special press, but after some reading on the net I found an easier way to do it. You have to place a heck saw blade in the bush and put it back with the blade inwards. Then you saw through the outer ring and the bush almost will fall out. Nice one
Just after sawing, bend it a bit and push it out. Make sure you don't saw in the differential and create a weak point.
On both sides I found some small developing cracks.
The new and the old.
Placing the new one was a piece of cake. I think the whole process in total only took 15 minutes. You don't need to take the cover off.
I check up on my beam if it was cracked, but as expected with a 2L auto, no cracks or distortion.
But I found some other concerning thing. A yellow wire was half way worn through. I think it had rubbed against the brake line, but I'm not sure. What I know that finding this has saved me a lot of headaches in the future with the abs system. I followed the wire, it was from the abs right wheel sensor.
The rear callipers in their new jacket.
The differential bush looked at first sight as new.
To get it out, I needed to make a special press, but after some reading on the net I found an easier way to do it. You have to place a heck saw blade in the bush and put it back with the blade inwards. Then you saw through the outer ring and the bush almost will fall out. Nice one
Just after sawing, bend it a bit and push it out. Make sure you don't saw in the differential and create a weak point.
On both sides I found some small developing cracks.
The new and the old.
Placing the new one was a piece of cake. I think the whole process in total only took 15 minutes. You don't need to take the cover off.
I check up on my beam if it was cracked, but as expected with a 2L auto, no cracks or distortion.
But I found some other concerning thing. A yellow wire was half way worn through. I think it had rubbed against the brake line, but I'm not sure. What I know that finding this has saved me a lot of headaches in the future with the abs system. I followed the wire, it was from the abs right wheel sensor.
The rear callipers in their new jacket.
How we pressed out the bushes without a lot of elbow grease. The bracket under I welded myself, my fitters asked me if I was trying to write with the welder
My pressing tools and result
I'm preparing here the sub frame for welding, the paint has to come off otherwise it will burn off my workmates, who will do the welding, telling me. One of the wires of that brush came off and hit exactly between my nose and lip. I had to pull out 5 mm of wire out of my skin, auw!
I place a level on the sub frame to get the slotted brackets absolute square with the frame of the car
Every slotted bracket is hold temporary on its place by a bolt and nut until they are welded. The inner bracket slots vertical for the camber and the outer bracket slots horizontal for the toe.
Perfect, I hope we can weld it tonight.
My pressing tools and result
I'm preparing here the sub frame for welding, the paint has to come off otherwise it will burn off my workmates, who will do the welding, telling me. One of the wires of that brush came off and hit exactly between my nose and lip. I had to pull out 5 mm of wire out of my skin, auw!
I place a level on the sub frame to get the slotted brackets absolute square with the frame of the car
Every slotted bracket is hold temporary on its place by a bolt and nut until they are welded. The inner bracket slots vertical for the camber and the outer bracket slots horizontal for the toe.
Perfect, I hope we can weld it tonight.
Last night my workmate welded the slotted brackets in for me. If I saw how my welds looked on my bush bracket and what he did, a true master piece! A nice solid weld
Working
Result:
And than I had to file the slots in, that was a true PIA. That had to be done by hand with round files. It took me 4 hours of hard labor.
Result after spraying the artwork in black zinc spray.
Working
Result:
And than I had to file the slots in, that was a true PIA. That had to be done by hand with round files. It took me 4 hours of hard labor.
Result after spraying the artwork in black zinc spray.
To make a slotted hole such as that it's easier to drill two holes next to each other then all you need to file out is the "lump" between the two holes? If that's what you did, you need some new files !
Tony.
Tony.
Are they fitted correctly ? I remember you saying one was for toe the other camber and they would be different orientation to allow for both on each side ?
That pictured looks ok for camber but no toe adjustment at all ?
Should the inner backet be a further 90° round ?
That pictured looks ok for camber but no toe adjustment at all ?
Should the inner backet be a further 90° round ?
Yeah nah, with the 4 toe slots on the outside, there is not enough "flesh" left over to get a drill in, because the original hole with the toe slot you leave in the middle of the slots. I thought that the cambers ones would be the most difficult, but thy were the easiest.
In the outside slot of the camber I drilled 5x3mm holes and broke the middle part out and filled the rest of the hole. In the inside slot of the camber I drilled a 5mm hole, then a 7mm, then a 11mm which popped the bridge between away. The rest I filed away. Still a lot of work tough. I thought by myself, shall I make pictures how to do this, but I thought nah, someone who is doing this job will figure it out himself probably...
On the how to from the gararistic you can see what I mean. http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=e30-e28-Z3-Rear-camber-and-toe-correction-kit-how-to
In the outside slot of the camber I drilled 5x3mm holes and broke the middle part out and filled the rest of the hole. In the inside slot of the camber I drilled a 5mm hole, then a 7mm, then a 11mm which popped the bridge between away. The rest I filed away. Still a lot of work tough. I thought by myself, shall I make pictures how to do this, but I thought nah, someone who is doing this job will figure it out himself probably...
On the how to from the gararistic you can see what I mean. http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=e30-e28-Z3-Rear-camber-and-toe-correction-kit-how-to
I see now i have seen the instructions 
The inner one is for the camber and goes up and down. If you lift the inner up, your camber will goes to positive. The outside one goes front and backwards and is controlling your toe.
The outside one you weld with the hole in the middle, so you can adjust two ways, positive and negative. The camber you only want to go up, because you don't want to increase your camber (well some do...) If I understand correctly, you can adjust your camber about 1.5 degrees this way. My camber is about -3.2degrees at the moment.
See link garagistic in post above
That is why eccentric adjustable bushes are not a good idea. If you adjust the inner or the outer one, you adjust the camber and toe at the same time, which will be a pain for your wheel aligner.
(I see that I posted this after your last reply....)
In the meantime, I found some rust
I'm planning to keep he Z for. A. Long. Time, so the rust has to be eliminated.
I removed the most of the rust mechanically
Painted the rust with rust converter
Sprayed it with zinc spray, and finished with car paint. I hope this will keep it rust free for another 16 years. (I'm 67 at that time)
Then I pressed the new bush in with the same press as I took the old one out.
I noticed that the cylinder which has to go inside the bush was about 6mm shorter than the bush itself. I hope it will compress if I assemble it back together
(back home...) Looks more like 5mm
Might be an OTT thing, but I like to smear some anti seize compound over the nuts and bolts I place back. As I said above, I intend to keep the Z a long time
I was planning to have the nut on the inside for easy access for the alliner guy, but with the bush in, it didn't fit anymore..
Some guys don't care about torque settings, but I always try to keep myself using the right torque settings, unless my torque wrench doesn't fit, like with the trailer arm nuts. (Click on image for torque settings)
Removing the subframe was a more easy job than putting it back. When lifting with the hydraulic jack, the subframe was on a wrong angle in proportion with the 2 subframe studs. I placed wood under the front of the subframe and lowered the hydraulic jack a bit to get the right angle. Then I used to 2 Toyota jacks (one on each side) to lift the front of the subframe piece by piece, until it was on the right place. I'm lucky that I work at a sawmill and that I have a lot of offcuts for firewood
With this part I first mounted the bracket with the 2 cap screws (hand tight) and then screwed the bracket onto the subframe with the big nut. After that I tightened the bracket with 22nm, which was a guess because I couldn't find the right torque setting for the bracket. The nut should be 140nm, but my torque wrench only goes to 100nm, so I did hundred and a bit of a extra turn. I think I compressed the bush enough to get the inner cylinder from metal to metal (remember the cylinder was 5mm shorter than the bush...)
Then I connected the brake line from chassis to trailing arms and the shock absorber. (click image for torque settings)
I'm planning to keep he Z for. A. Long. Time, so the rust has to be eliminated.
I removed the most of the rust mechanically
Painted the rust with rust converter
Sprayed it with zinc spray, and finished with car paint. I hope this will keep it rust free for another 16 years. (I'm 67 at that time
)
Then I pressed the new bush in with the same press as I took the old one out.
I noticed that the cylinder which has to go inside the bush was about 6mm shorter than the bush itself. I hope it will compress if I assemble it back together
(back home...) Looks more like 5mm
Might be an OTT thing, but I like to smear some anti seize compound over the nuts and bolts I place back. As I said above, I intend to keep the Z a long time
I was planning to have the nut on the inside for easy access for the alliner guy, but with the bush in, it didn't fit anymore..
Some guys don't care about torque settings, but I always try to keep myself using the right torque settings, unless my torque wrench doesn't fit, like with the trailer arm nuts. (Click on image for torque settings)
Removing the subframe was a more easy job than putting it back. When lifting with the hydraulic jack, the subframe was on a wrong angle in proportion with the 2 subframe studs. I placed wood under the front of the subframe and lowered the hydraulic jack a bit to get the right angle. Then I used to 2 Toyota jacks (one on each side) to lift the front of the subframe piece by piece, until it was on the right place. I'm lucky that I work at a sawmill and that I have a lot of offcuts for firewood
With this part I first mounted the bracket with the 2 cap screws (hand tight) and then screwed the bracket onto the subframe with the big nut. After that I tightened the bracket with 22nm, which was a guess because I couldn't find the right torque setting for the bracket. The nut should be 140nm, but my torque wrench only goes to 100nm, so I did hundred and a bit of a extra turn. I think I compressed the bush enough to get the inner cylinder from metal to metal (remember the cylinder was 5mm shorter than the bush...)
Then I connected the brake line from chassis to trailing arms and the shock absorber. (click image for torque settings)
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2014
- Points
- 174
- Model of Z
- 2.2i Sport
Nice write-up, doing something similar myself but using eccentric bushes and lots of purple Powerflex bits. Just a small point, the bottom bolt on the damper is best tightened after the car is back to its normal ride height, otherwise there's a permanent twist on the bush. Pedantic moment over, thank the lord.
Thanks for the tip, that make sense. When it is back on the feets I will unty and retorque both nuts
I think I'm almost done. The front parts went way easier than I had participated . Tomorrow I need to make an appointment with the wheel aligner guy. For 2 weeks I drove Mrs. Dobiwallahs Rav4 to work, I'm looking forward to drive the Z again I noticed that the sills are full of sand on the back part. Another job on the "todo list"
Nice clean hand brake again.
The backend when it just came down. That's not a camber of 3.21 anymore. I lifted the eccentric screw up all the way to the top
To rise the front I had to drive on firewood, otherwise my jack won't fit under the car
The front bush holder is easy to remove, just two bolts.
Then I cut the rubber away with a sharp knife
I have seen guys on youtube burning the middle part with a flame or remove it with a hammer and chisel. I don't want to burn down my garage with Z, so I used the bearing puller instead.
In the outer ring I cut a sleeve.
Once your through, the outer ring will almost fall out by itself
The new bush I pressed in with the vice until it wouldn't go anymore. Lubed it with dish washer liquid.
Won't go any further?
Hammer it in!
I hammered the bush on the arm, and guided the bush holder to its position with an allen key not to damage the thread.
Sway bar parts disassembled:
The first holder came easy out, the second protested more.
Old and new sway bar bush
End result
End result
I noticed that the sills are full of sand on the back part. Another job on the "todo list"Nice clean hand brake again.
The backend when it just came down. That's not a camber of 3.21 anymore. I lifted the eccentric screw up all the way to the top
To rise the front I had to drive on firewood, otherwise my jack won't fit under the car
The front bush holder is easy to remove, just two bolts.
Then I cut the rubber away with a sharp knife
I have seen guys on youtube burning the middle part with a flame or remove it with a hammer and chisel. I don't want to burn down my garage with Z, so I used the bearing puller instead.
In the outer ring I cut a sleeve.
Once your through, the outer ring will almost fall out by itself
The new bush I pressed in with the vice until it wouldn't go anymore. Lubed it with dish washer liquid.
Won't go any further?
Hammer it in!
I hammered the bush on the arm, and guided the bush holder to its position with an allen key not to damage the thread.
Sway bar parts disassembled:
The first holder came easy out, the second protested more.
Old and new sway bar bush
End result
End result
A great thread very detailed and top work nice to see it develop 
I brought the Z Tuesday to John Bates wheel aligner. The left rear came back from -3.3 camber to -1.9, which is somewhere between M-roadster and Z3 sports suspension. But more important is the toe, that came back from -3.3mm to 1.4mm. He couldn't get the front cambers right, so I had to come back the next day. He said that would place some plates in the top of the arm or so, I didn't exactly understand what is was saying. The right front camber came back from -1.25 to -0.57
I hope all my efforts will stop my tires from wearing out on the inside. This tire had still 5mm tread in the middle. Worn on the inside to the canvas:
The little beemer in the truck alignment place
The alignment in July woke me up. -3.21 degrees camber on the left
Rear camber after first alignment. Reduced from -3.21 to -1.90 degrees. There is not anymore you can get out the eccentric camber sets
Front camber after installing plates. It looks like the toe has increased after installing the plates. I found a toe-in calculator at http://www.fiatforum.com/miscellaneous-guides/139390-tracking-toe-calculator.html which is saying that 5.5mm is the same as 0.365 degrees. The book says .18 degrees. Should that be a problem?
. The right front camber came back from -1.25 to -0.57I hope all my efforts will stop my tires from wearing out on the inside. This tire had still 5mm tread in the middle. Worn on the inside to the canvas:
The little beemer in the truck alignment place
The alignment in July woke me up. -3.21 degrees camber on the left
Rear camber after first alignment. Reduced from -3.21 to -1.90 degrees. There is not anymore you can get out the eccentric camber sets
Front camber after installing plates. It looks like the toe has increased after installing the plates. I found a toe-in calculator at http://www.fiatforum.com/miscellaneous-guides/139390-tracking-toe-calculator.html which is saying that 5.5mm is the same as 0.365 degrees. The book says .18 degrees. Should that be a problem?
amazing write up, thanks for sharing!
Hi Mate,
I live in Auckland and have just gone thru the bushing, rear subframe debacle.
On my 1999 2.8 Z3 mspec I have the following....
Black IE concentric bushings for the front control arms (offset to increase castor and further improve steering response)
IE rear shock mounts (replaceable red Nolathane inserts)
Powerflex purple rear trailing arm bushing
Powerflex purple rear axel carrier beam bushings
Powerflex pink differential mount bushing
Z3 Sport springs
Bilsten HD tourers replaced in the rear
Installed IE rear camber\castor kit to reduce tyre wear (I am going to get the bolts spot welded in place as they have a tendency to loosen).
Ingen carbon fiber air intake piping incl washable pod filter (ex E46 from TradeMe for $25, a slight modification and it fits like a glove)
I also run 235x17 all round now. Offset great in the front but I added 20mm spacers in the rear to move the wheel out to the edge of the body (like the front) and increase the width of the tyre track for increased handling).
Unfortunately the previous owner did look after the car, so a lot of work has been done just to make it safe.
I have had to replace the axle carrier beam and both rear trailing arms due to accident by previous owner.
The car is part of the family now and the combination of Nolathane bushings and castor\camber kit make the car much more stable and removes the twitchy rear steer....
I like the increased handling and stability and find that the additional noise and vibration is marginal.
I recently had to rebuild my rear brake calipers (seal kit) and replaced the rear brake hoses as they De-laminate internally with age.
g.
I live in Auckland and have just gone thru the bushing, rear subframe debacle.
On my 1999 2.8 Z3 mspec I have the following....
Black IE concentric bushings for the front control arms (offset to increase castor and further improve steering response)
IE rear shock mounts (replaceable red Nolathane inserts)
Powerflex purple rear trailing arm bushing
Powerflex purple rear axel carrier beam bushings
Powerflex pink differential mount bushing
Z3 Sport springs
Bilsten HD tourers replaced in the rear
Installed IE rear camber\castor kit to reduce tyre wear (I am going to get the bolts spot welded in place as they have a tendency to loosen).
Ingen carbon fiber air intake piping incl washable pod filter (ex E46 from TradeMe for $25, a slight modification and it fits like a glove)
I also run 235x17 all round now. Offset great in the front but I added 20mm spacers in the rear to move the wheel out to the edge of the body (like the front) and increase the width of the tyre track for increased handling).
Unfortunately the previous owner did look after the car, so a lot of work has been done just to make it safe.
I have had to replace the axle carrier beam and both rear trailing arms due to accident by previous owner.
The car is part of the family now and the combination of Nolathane bushings and castor\camber kit make the car much more stable and removes the twitchy rear steer....
I like the increased handling and stability and find that the additional noise and vibration is marginal.
I recently had to rebuild my rear brake calipers (seal kit) and replaced the rear brake hoses as they De-laminate internally with age.
g.