Z3 Seized door mirror - cost effective fix

MarkLG1973

Zorg Addict
Joined
Aug 28, 2021
Points
53
Model of Z
1999 Z3 2.8
With the driver’s side door mirror well and truly seized solid, it was time to strip it down and get it fixed.
The removal and strip down is well documented, and pretty straightforward, and from research most owners either live with the seized stem and just repaint the corroded base, or replace with an aftermarket assembly.
I didn’t fancy paying £120 for the aftermarket option, so came up with a solution based on the original aluminium parts.
First step was to remove the mirror arm from the base. The mounting pin is non-removable, so used a step drill bit the bottom off and removed the spring.
The base and arm were seized together, but a couple of sharp taps with a hammer separated the 2 parts, Cleaned everything up, sanded down the base and resprayed.

Parts required for the fix - short length of M13 hollow rod, nuts and M12 washers. The hollow rod is typically used for suspended light fittings, and allows for a wire to be threaded through - exactly what’s needed to accommodate the electric mirror wiring. M12 washers are actually just over 13mm, so a snug fit on the rod.

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Wiring connects to mirror motor using colour coded wires and standard spades

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The finished mirror ready to refit.

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With the driver’s side door mirror well and truly seized solid, it was time to strip it down and get it fixed.
The removal and strip down is well documented, and pretty straightforward, and from research most owners either live with the seized stem and just repaint the corroded base, or replace with an aftermarket assembly.
I didn’t fancy paying £120 for the aftermarket option, so came up with a solution based on the original aluminium parts.
First step was to remove the mirror arm from the base. The mounting pin is non-removable, so used a step drill bit the bottom off and removed the spring.
The base and arm were seized together, but a couple of sharp taps with a hammer separated the 2 parts, Cleaned everything up, sanded down the base and resprayed.

Parts required for the fix - short length of M13 hollow rod, nuts and M12 washers. The hollow rod is typically used for suspended light fittings, and allows for a wire to be threaded through - exactly what’s needed to accommodate the electric mirror wiring. M12 washers are actually just over 13mm, so a snug fit on the rod.

View attachment 203005

View attachment 203007

Wiring connects to mirror motor using colour coded wires and standard spades

View attachment 203011

The finished mirror ready to refit.

View attachment 203009
Excellent tutorial. Just followed your method and managed to fix my passenger's mirror for less than £10. The driver's side needed the X8R at £120 as completely broken up.
Whilst doing this job, I also wondered about heated mirrors and searched forums etc and discovered that if fitted, the heater element is wired from piggybacking the brown and blue wires at the mirror motor connections. I spliced in two wires, purchased new glass with heater element, it works perfectly. But note that the heater is always on [there is no switch]. This seems commonplace on this era of car. Maybe later Z3's had a switch fitted. BTW - The passenger mirror already had the factory fitted wiring, piggybacked for a heated mirror and the driver's didn't - go figure??
 
Excellent tutorial. Just followed your method and managed to fix my passenger's mirror for less than £10. The driver's side needed the X8R at £120 as completely broken up.
Whilst doing this job, I also wondered about heated mirrors and searched forums etc and discovered that if fitted, the heater element is wired from piggybacking the brown and blue wires at the mirror motor connections. I spliced in two wires, purchased new glass with heater element, it works perfectly. But note that the heater is always on [there is no switch]. This seems commonplace on this era of car. Maybe later Z3's had a switch fitted. BTW - The passenger mirror already had the factory fitted wiring, piggybacked for a heated mirror and the driver's didn't - go figure??

I’m glad you found it useful. Mine’s still holding together just fine.
 
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