Z3 roadster floor pan patch panels
- Thread starter Piran
- Start date
It looks a small section but you need to be brave and aggressively grind the rot out and have a clean area to weld to. It looks small but a clean up is needed for a full assessment.
It does appear to be just a small section at first glance, I would cut out a repair panel on some sheet steel. Place that against your area then cut that section of floor out, then tack weld your repair panel in situ looking at the floor some manipulation of your repair panel to follow the contours may be needed. If your not a welder have a look on Facebook and search for welders in your area. If you look at my progress thread you can see I had a jacking point repaired to a good standard for a reasonable price.
It does appear to be just a small section at first glance, I would cut out a repair panel on some sheet steel. Place that against your area then cut that section of floor out, then tack weld your repair panel in situ looking at the floor some manipulation of your repair panel to follow the contours may be needed. If your not a welder have a look on Facebook and search for welders in your area. If you look at my progress thread you can see I had a jacking point repaired to a good standard for a reasonable price.
What Althulas said, take a flap disc and clean back to new metal.
Go to
View: https://youtu.be/_zJW9Thp2ow
and Karl will show you how to hammer form a repair section. It sounds and looks scary when you’ve never done it before, once you jump in it’s not actually that difficult. Forming simple one off shapes in mdf works well. For something tight, use steel, or a mix of steel/mdf. A bolster chisel, scrap steel, hardwood for the counter punch, all work.
To drill the hole, either a kitchen hole punch, or a holesaw from Toolstation, or Screwfix.
I would not advise seam welding it, I would use what’s called “zap and chill”. Essentially a series of tack welds whilst chilling between welds. It means you don’t need to clean quite so far back, melt less under seal and have less chance of fire. Karl on above link will show you how to do that too. I’ve used the technique for years, it works really, really well.
Go to
and Karl will show you how to hammer form a repair section. It sounds and looks scary when you’ve never done it before, once you jump in it’s not actually that difficult. Forming simple one off shapes in mdf works well. For something tight, use steel, or a mix of steel/mdf. A bolster chisel, scrap steel, hardwood for the counter punch, all work.
To drill the hole, either a kitchen hole punch, or a holesaw from Toolstation, or Screwfix.
I would not advise seam welding it, I would use what’s called “zap and chill”. Essentially a series of tack welds whilst chilling between welds. It means you don’t need to clean quite so far back, melt less under seal and have less chance of fire. Karl on above link will show you how to do that too. I’ve used the technique for years, it works really, really well.
I had those same holes gone on mine on one side of car, not quite as bad. Didn't weld in new plates - as not going to see it, I think those holes are for allowing paint out when dipping? I don't think they have a function post build.
So I was lazy - ground out all rust and treated all bare steel with BILT HAMBER hydrate 80 to cure and protect from further rust - then just filled the hole with Tiger Seal Seam sealer.
I do like Iain's video though as I need to repair one of my cills - so thanks for that vid Iain.
So I was lazy - ground out all rust and treated all bare steel with BILT HAMBER hydrate 80 to cure and protect from further rust - then just filled the hole with Tiger Seal Seam sealer.
I do like Iain's video though as I need to repair one of my cills - so thanks for that vid Iain.
Welcome
I do like Karl’s stuff, he’s not afraid to show when things don’t quite work out.
I do like Karl’s stuff, he’s not afraid to show when things don’t quite work out.