Z3 Rear Discs. Help Please.

[Antm72]

Looking at the picture i would get a new fitting kit andy the springs look corroded and the spring caps as they are a bayonet type any corrosion there makes them in affective in there job.. removing them will give you a good look at the back plate to as the fittings hold the shoe to the back plate corrossion here also causes the fitting to let go but the backing plates are thick so inlikely but i would certainly be looking at the fitting kit as you don't want to strip it all wait for shoes and then need a fitting kit too.

 

[andyglym]

One more thing to consider Andy, is the removal of the hold down pins and springs. You will need a 5mm allen key to push in and turn the pins (1/4 turn either way) to release them from the back plate. A crude bayonet type of fitting. If you don't have a key to fit you can use thin nosed mole grips but the allen key is the better option as you can work through one of the wheel bolt holes. You could remove one and take it to get the correct size, but I think they are 5mm.If they are really badly corroded you can get fitting kits from such as Euro Car Parts or Andrew Page outlets.

Tony.

Many thanks Tony. Just spent the last couple of hours cleaning all surfaces, springs, caliper carriers etc back to a nice clean and relatively corrosion free state to ensure a smooth refit when I get my shoes. Thanks for the tip on the spring kits, managed to clean mine up to a good condition. For such a mechanical biff I have a reasonable tool kit, not come across anything I need immediately but I'm sure I will. Taken loads of photo's for referable for when I put the shoes back on so hopefully will be OK. On the upside, my lad was in his element thanks again for your help, appreciated. Now then, how to get back in the house and past the C-in-C to the shower

 

[andyglym]

Looking at the picture i would get a new fitting kit andy the springs look corroded and the spring caps as they are a bayonet type any corrosion there makes them in affective in there job.. removing them will give you a good look at the back plate to as the fittings hold the shoe to the back plate corrossion here also causes the fitting to let go but the backing plates are thick so inlikely but i would certainly be looking at the fitting kit as you don't want to strip it all wait for shoes and then need a fitting kit too.

Thanks for the info Ant. Got the back plate to come up nicely, springs too. However, for only a tenner or so I may get a new set of springs though they do look in good nik

Many thanks for the top tips.

 

[Acousticplayer]

Just done mine.Didn't need doing but had it all stripped down to fit new callipers so thought I may as well.There are plenty of shoes about,Got a complete set of Febi-Bilstein shoes and a full fitting kit for £23 delivered.
The biggest problem I found was fitting the shoes back.The bottom spring has no stretch in it or at least I couldn't move it.The top spring can be pulled just about enough to clip it into place.
Fit the bottom spring to the two shoes whilst they are loose and the top spring last.
Careful not to lose the little expander pin which has a tendency to fall out whilst you are juggling. Maybe a little spot of grease may help to hold it.

 

[andyglym]

Just done mine.Didn't need doing but had it all stripped down to fit new callipers so thought I may as well.There are plenty of shoes about,Got a complete set of Febi-Bilstein shoes and a full fitting kit for £23 delivered.
The biggest problem I found was fitting the shoes back.The bottom spring has no stretch in it or at least I couldn't move it.The top spring can be pulled just about enough to clip it into place.
Fit the bottom spring to the two shoes whilst they are loose and the top spring last.
Careful not to lose the little expander pin which has a tendency to fall out whilst you are juggling. Maybe a little spot of grease may help to hold it.

Good tips, many thanks

 

[Dickymint]

bottom spring first is the best way to go then use pliers to pull the top spring and I used a screwdriver in the spring coils to help pull it.
I put new discs on mine though they were already new they had rusted slightly and my ocd wanted nice new painted discs so I ordered the discs and pads thinking the shoes would be new, took of the discs and found the shoes were the original ones and so rusty and the liners had lifted about a third of the way on all 4 so replaced all four and what a nasty job that was I have decided that the next time they need doing I'll just burn the bloody thing......
I still would like to meet whoever put on new discs and left the old shoes in there! someone needs a slap around the face with a wet fish

 

[Bozzy]

Another job just about complete on your zed Andy,good to see so much help forwarded to help with your job as well


Steve

 

[andyglym]

Another job just about complete on your zed Andy,good to see so much help forwarded to help with your job as well


Steve

Like British Rail Steve, I'm getting there. All cleaned up and ready to go once parts arrive (discs and pads already here). Handbrake cable adjusters are fiddly though so I'll be teaching my lad some new words in the adjustment process. All in all straight forward, just need to take my time.

 

[Bozzy]

That's the key,taking your time.
A great way to spend time with your son as well ,and as you say you can repay all his kind help by teaching him some nice new words (glad it's not only me that gets swearing torettes)

 

[hacker]

Just came in on this, you chaps sure have some rust issues! I just replaced the pads and rotors on all four wheels in the past few months and you could eat off the rear handbrake assembly! I might also add that I own an automotive shop that specializes in brakes so I've done a few thousand of these repairs over thirty years!

You really need to check the caliper pins and make certain they slide nice and free in the caliper assembly, of course they need to be lubricated with the proper stuff when you reassemble. I suggest you bleed the entire system when your done as Dot 4 fluid is hydroscopic and will absorb water over time. That looks like a real issue where you live. One other issue that may rear its head is if the caliper piston has gotten any corrosion from this. This presents a problem when you displace the caliper piston back fully to make room for the new pads and rotors. If there is corrosion on the piston it causes the pads to "stick" as the design depends on the square cut seal to retract the piston. Rebuilding the caliper can be a pain but its cheap requiring only a couple of rubber "bits". Sorry to run on but I've seen a lot of problems develop when I see that much rust in the brake system.....I know, not what you wanted to hear!!!

 

[andyglym]

Just came in on this, you chaps sure have some rust issues! I just replaced the pads and rotors on all four wheels in the past few months and you could eat off the rear handbrake assembly! I might also add that I own an automotive shop that specializes in brakes so I've done a few thousand of these repairs over thirty years!

You really need to check the caliper pins and make certain they slide nice and free in the caliper assembly, of course they need to be lubricated with the proper stuff when you reassemble. I suggest you bleed the entire system when your done as Dot 4 fluid is hydroscopic and will absorb water over time. That looks like a real issue where you live. One other issue that may rear its head is if the caliper piston has gotten any corrosion from this. This presents a problem when you displace the caliper piston back fully to make room for the new pads and rotors. If there is corrosion on the piston it causes the pads to "stick" as the design depends on the square cut seal to retract the piston. Rebuilding the caliper can be a pain but its cheap requiring only a couple of rubber "bits". Sorry to run on but I've seen a lot of problems develop when I see that much rust in the brake system.....I know, not what you wanted to hear!!!

Many thanks for the advice, much appreciated. She's had a full brake fluid flush this year so the fluid is good. Sadly the UK has been known to have the odd drop of rain which takes its toll on our cars. I've carried out a good clean on all parts and when my new shoes arrive I'll resemble. All other bits have come up well and the piston seals look good, that said, new calipers are on the list to do next year when funding allows.

 

[t-tony]

The sliders are an easy fix Andy, simply "carefully" poke out the rubbers that the slider pins go through and clean out the holes, lightly scrape the sides of the rubber sleeves if they're not clean. Lubricate with rubber grease and refit the rubber sleeves in the way they were fitted.

Tony.

 

[andyglym]

The sliders are an easy fix Andy, simply "carefully" poke out the rubbers that the slider pins go through and clean out the holes, lightly scrape the sides of the rubber sleeves if they're not clean. Lubricate with rubber grease and refit the rubber sleeves in the way they were fitted.

Tony.

Top job Tony and many thanks.

 

[t-tony]

Here you go @Andy McDonnell , from today's first hand experience. A guy brought in his BMW this morning, on which my colleague (the Ape man) fitted some parking brake shoes last July. Anyway the hold own spring for the N/S shoes has come adrift allowing them to catch on the drum. So, here's my tool for easy fitting of the hold down spring and pin.
The remains of the original pin and spring ( it didn't fall off just today , did it?)

This the tool I use for these pins, it was originally bought for removing the last 2 bolts from VW sumps against the flywheel end (such as on a Galaxy). The socket end is 3/8"

I f you don't have this you can do this with a 5mm Allen key, gives much better control. You can use this through one of the wheel bolt holes to aid the pin fitting.

If you need to clean out the holes for the slider pins, this is what you need, a home made tool for the cordless drill we all have these days. Took me about 15 mins. to make. A 4" 8mm bolt split down the middle with a hacksaw or grinding disc(carefully)

Wrap which ever grade emery strip around the bolt in the opposite direction of drill rotation, but allow 1/2" or so to protrude through the sot as this will add grip to the emery when it getting short.

The battery terminal cover is just to stop the emery strip unravelling.

Hope you might find this useful.

Tony.

 

[andyglym]

Here you go @Andy McDonnell , from today's first hand experience. A guy brought in his BMW this morning, on which my colleague (the Ape man) fitted some parking brake shoes last July. Anyway the hold own spring for the N/S shoes has come adrift allowing them to catch on the drum. So, here's my tool for easy fitting of the hold down spring and pin.
The remains of the original pin and spring ( it didn't fall off just today , did it?)
View attachment 25274
This the tool I use for these pins, it was originally bought for removing the last 2 bolts from VW sumps against the flywheel end (such as on a Galaxy). The socket end is 3/8"
View attachment 25275
I f you don't have this you can do this with a 5mm Allen key, gives much better control. You can use this through one of the wheel bolt holes to aid the pin fitting.
View attachment 25276
If you need to clean out the holes for the slider pins, this is what you need, a home made tool for the cordless drill we all have these days. Took me about 15 mins. to make. A 4" 8mm bolt split down the middle with a hacksaw or grinding disc(carefully)
View attachment 25278
Wrap which ever grade emery strip around the bolt in the opposite direction of drill rotation, but allow 1/2" or so to protrude through the sot as this will add grip to the emery when it getting short.
View attachment 25279 View attachment 25277
The battery terminal cover is just to stop the emery strip unravelling.
View attachment 25280

Hope you might find this useful.

Tony.

Excellent Tony, very useful info and tools. I'll bookmark that for future reference. Hopefully it'll make it a tad easier and quicker next time round.

Just watching Jools Holland to bring in the New Year.

Best regards to you and Shirl mate.

 

[t-tony]

Excellent Tony, very useful info and tools. I'll bookmark that for future reference. Hopefully it'll make it a tad easier and quicker next time round.

Just watching Jools Holland to bring in the New Year.

Best regards to you and Shirl mate.

To you too Andy, we watched the fireworks, I really liked the nod to Ian Dury with his "Good evening" from Billericy Dicky, excellent
Bryan Adams has got back to his Rock @n Roll roots these days.

Tony.

 

[zedonist]

As a pointer on the hand brake shoes, I would slacken the adjuster nuts off at the hand brake lever, and then I would adjust the shoes to the drum until they just drag and then back off a turn, you can then tighten the adjuster nuts ate hand brake lever to get you three clicks and you should have good left and right brake bias.