Z3 EWS Module Help Please!

[Daniel28]

Hi,

Seeking some help please...

Can anyone confirm what EWS module my Z3 has. Its a 1999 model production date January 99 (M44 1.9)

I'm in need of getting a second hand ECU/DME/EWS Kit which includes ignition and key etc but want to make sure that I get the correct one. I'm missing all these parts at the moment (hence needing them) but obviously can't check my car for any product numbers.

Thanks in advance!

 

[BMBabe]

@spurs fan in a coupe can you help

 

[spurs fan in a coupe]

I can, but how soon do you need it?

 

[Daniel28]

Need to get something within the next 2weeks or so really. But my post was mainly because I need to know what EWS a 1999 Z3 would use? I want to confirm if it will be EWS II or EWS3. But if you can supply one then even better.

 

[mrscalex]

The EWS changed over somewhere around that time. I've dismantled pre-facelift 1.9s with production dates a few months apart where one was EWS 2 and one was EWS 3D.

The EWS is accessed in about 5 minutes by removing the drivers knee-panel. It's mounted under the dash with 2 bolts and the type is clearly visible on the outside.

Alternatively BMW Scanner and probably INPA will tell you the version from an electronic scan.

Having spent every minute of my spare time reading up on the EWS system over the last week (about 40 hours) for my own issue, what I would say is you are going to need to know your stuff to pull off any work in this area.

Why do you want to replace everything? There are ways out of most situations without doing that.

If you replace everything with a matched set then in theory that's the easiest way to avoid EWS/DME/Transponder sync issues. But it's potentially sledge hammer to crack a walnut. And you will then have a VIN embedded in those modules that doesn't match your car. Not wishing to go down this route myself I also can't be sure what other mis-matching it may cause or if any of that is even material.

 

[mrscalex]

But to go back to your question. Officially the EWS 3D came in for the 1999 model year production. Bearing in mind that would normally start before January of the year in question then in theory it should be EWS 3D.

The EWS 3D is bespoke to the Z3 as best as I can make out. So if you have that the EWS itself has to come from a Z3. Bearing in mind you want a complete set that will be the case anyway.

 

[mrscalex]

Btw the EWS 3D has more in common with an EWS 2 than EWS 3.2 or 3.3 found on other BMWs from that time.

The 3D is essentially a 2 with the addition of rolling ISN codes as the Z3 couldn't run 3.2 or 3.3 due to data line incompatibility. Hence why it's bespoke to a Z3 and you can't use any v3 EWS from another BMW.

Despite what BMW would like you to believe (and for all the right reasons of keeping it simple I have to say - if expensive) you can reprogram both an EWS and DME.

If you have lost your keys BMW can produce new ones from master codes. Or if you only have 1 duff key then it's easy to get a non-starting key made which will switch the ignition on to read modules but won't start the car.

 

[mrscalex]

One more thing. As I mentioned this is a hot topic for me currently and in fact I have 3 EWS modules sat in front of me ready to play around with when my programmer arrives.

There are 2 common software versions of the EWS 3D. The Sw 05 which is the one you are more likely to have. And the Sw 06 which is the later version I've pulled from a 2001 (2.2). The Sw 06 is considered the better of he two.

I'm not sure it matters but be aware in case. All versions should be backward compatible. In fact if you order a replacement EWS from BMW you now get a version 4.3 which as I understand emulates an EWS 2 or EWS 3D.

 

[Daniel28]

Thank you @mrscalex for your input. Any idea on what problems I could face if I install the wrong EWS?
Its a race car, currently in build - Its not so much on wanting to replace, its the fact I dont have it at all to start with.

 

[mrscalex]

If it's a race car you're not going to use on the road I know from looking around that a lot of people delete the EWS from the DME completely. I know that can be done on an EWS 2 based car. Possibly it can be done with EWS 3D as it's EWS 2 based but a lot less likely I would think due to the rolling codes on EWS 3D.

I'm not sure about retrofitting an EWS 2 set-up to an EWS 3D based car. And once the entire security system has been stripped out then I'm not sure what if anything would stop you fitting an EWS 2 set-up if it left the factory EWS 3D based anyway.

To be honest you are much more likely to get the info you need on somewhere like bimmerforums where people do all sorts of nuts things with their EWSs and DMEs. That and other BMW forums are where I gleaned most info from.

There are also a small number of ECU specialists in the UK who will be able to help you. Like http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/

To be honest I'm wondering if you've started in the right place? There are usually lightly stripped out 1.9s available. The one I'm breaking now crossed the point of no return last week when I cut the harness. Otherwise I would have done you a deal on a solid and substantially complete car with DME/EWS, engine/gearbox, axles, wheels etc for a couple of hundred quid. Spurs fan might still be able to help you in this way and it might be better than the agro of getting your head round the EWS/DME.

 

[mrscalex]

Just checked and I'm pretty certain the pinouts are completely different (but plug compatible) on an EWS 2 compared to EWS 3D. So in other words it's your wiring harness that will dictate you sticking with the original set-up. Unless you want to hack the wiring harness.

 

[Daniel28]

Ok, thank you. The series regulations is original ECU, otherwise I'd play with a mod ECU or remove the EWS.
I'm not sure on how it'll work anyway - No door locks, or steering lock, or anything like that as its all stripped.

 

[mrscalex]

Okay got ya now.

I can see why you'd want to do it like you are.

I can help with a 1.9 Jan 1999 (actual build date 12-01-1999) EWS 3D EWS and DME then. I didn't want to offer it until I'd checked it was what you really needed. I have the ignition barrel and key too. And the door locks for that matter. The only problem is I won't be able to get the locks off until Sunday.

I've put this together so you can check which EWS/harness you have.

Look for a 15 pin connector under the dash by the steering column. It will look like this (plastic colour may be different).

Look for the thickest 2 cables (ignition and switched live to starter). They will be black/green and black/yellow regardless of version I believe. The important thing is:

• If the 2 are sat next to each other it is EWS 3D
• If they are sat with another wire in between (probably white/violet) it is EWS 2

For further piece of mind you can check the position. With the 7 pins at the top and 8 pins at the bottom (both are 15-pin). And looking at the cable side of the plug (not the view above) pin 1 and 9 are on the far right hand side if oriented correctly. Btw that is module based referencing and as per BMW diagrams.

• 2 thick wires at pins 7 & 8 (so bottom left) EWS 3D
• at pins 1 & 3 (so bottom right) EWS 2.

 

[mrscalex]

For racing and if you are allowed. You can strip out the steering lock and ignition barrel.

All the EWS wants is a transponder which you can remove from the key and tape to the steering column. And a 12v trigger so you can use a start button instead of the key/barrel.

When you put the units in, if it doesn't crank you have an EWS based error. If it cranks and doesn't fire it's either something electro-mechanical the DME isn't happy with or it's not hand-shaking rolling codes with the EWS. But if you use a matched DME/EWS/key there should be no issue there. And if they have somehow got out of sync (they can be unhappy with flat batteries for instance) it is easy enough to resync with a £30 cable and software set. I've used INPA before but I'm moving over to BMW Scanner know wherever possible. But they use different cables.

I can't be 100% certain you won't need to re-code other modules to match the new VIN you will have with a replacement set. But on balance of probability the car will at least start. The GM5, ABS and SRS all store car specific data but it's more to do with correct operation of those systems than security. Coming from a 1.9, as long as you match transmission types too (mine is manual) I can't think there would be too much difference required in the parameter setting.

 

[Daniel28]

Thank you for such a good tech insight, its been really useful. I'll check my car with what you advised to look for and hopefully it will be easy to work out. Then I'll get the DME/EWS/IGN Barrol & Key from you (Don't need any door locks).

I'll be using a engine start button, so just using the transponser is exactly what I'd planned. I'll probably attempt first start up with the ignition barrol and key to start with though.

Thanks again.

 

[Daniel28]

I've had a look at wiring around the steering colunm location and can only see two 12 pin plugs? Any ideas?

 

[mrscalex]

The EWS is mounted up under the dash near the steering column. It’s held in place with 2 bolts. So look for the mounting point and a plug hanging nearby. It’s the only 15 pin connector is expect to see there.

Is it possible it’s been cut off?

 

[Daniel28]

Thanks, I've double checked and no 15 pin connector in sight. It is possible it might have been cut off, I have started the project half way through so I don't know what the previous builder might or might not have done. Whats the best way forward if its been cut off?

Edit - I've got a donor car which is a Automatic so I assume that would have the 15 pin plug as well? Because I cant see it on that car either so must be looking in the wrong place. I also assume I can't use any of the ECU/DME/EWS from the Auto car to use in a manual? - Both cars are Right Hand Drive.

 

[mrscalex]

You're looking for something that looks like this. I took it while I was diagnosing my car hence the jumper which incidentally is bridging the ignition switch and starter wires to see if the starter could be made to turn by bypassing the EWS.

I don't have a photo to hand of the location. But if you have the knee panel off it should be quite apparent unless it's been tucked out of sight. If it's been cut you should still see 12 or so wires flapping around. If that's happened I can send the connector with plenty of wire for you to solder on to.

The EWS takes input from the auto box or clutch switch to see if it's safe to start. So as long as you recreate the inputs that particular aspect would be okay. But I think you will have wider spread issues if you try and run an auto car with a manual DME and vice versa. How easy it is to change the coding in every module that needs to know I'm not sure.

 

[mrscalex]

If you are really struggling to find the connector you can see if you can trace the thick black/green wire from the ignition switch nearby.