z3 3.0i and odb reader/odb fusion

id101

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For my 02 plate z3 3.0i I have a bluetooth reader and a copy of odb fusion on my phone but i am unable to get the software to recognise the car. My old corded reader connects fine reads codes etc. whereas the bluetooth connector and the software connect but the software will not recognise my zed, anyone had similar issues?

I have also tried both the odb connection under the steering and the one in the engine bay via an adapter, no joy. I've checked the software and bluetooth adapter on other cars and it works.

any thoughts?

background to this is trying to get live fuel trim readings as i still have issues with lean codes.
 

IainP

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I tried 2 different Bluetooth modules and, I think, 4 different apps on my ‘98 M44 1.9, none of them would connect. I’ve connected 4 different wired readers now, all connect, though not to all the modules because of the age of mine.
 

NZ00Z3

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I use OBD Fusion a lot and do analysis of lots of engine logs from other people all around the world.

OBD Fusion connects to my 2000 Z3 3.0i just fine, so its not a generic Z3 issues.

The 20 pin port cap has to be on the port for the inside OBD2 port to work.

Have a read through the attached doc to see if anything helps.
 

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id101

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I use OBD Fusion a lot and do analysis of lots of engine logs from other people all around the world.

OBD Fusion connects to my 2000 Z3 3.0i just fine, so its not a generic Z3 issues.

The 20 pin port cap has to be on the port for the inside OBD2 port to work.

Have a read through the attached doc to see if anything helps.
Hmm I've tried those instructions, are you on android? My bt connector connects with the app but then when it runs through all the protocols it doesn't connect with the car.

I did try it on a different car altogether to make sure it isn't the BT connector and it worked fine.
 

NZ00Z3

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I use a WIFI dongle with my apple devices. BT is for Android devices.

Have you backed right out of the menus where you set OD Fusion up before trying to connect?
 

id101

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I use a WIFI dongle with my apple devices. BT is for Android devices.

Have you backed right out of the menus where you set OD Fusion up before trying to connect?
yeah i tried the whole pair the bluetooth device before opening the app route as well. As i say the dongle and app connect but then the app cant connect to the z3, it runs through all the protocols on offer and then fails to connect with car.
 

id101

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I use OBD Fusion a lot and do analysis of lots of engine logs from other people all around the world.

OBD Fusion connects to my 2000 Z3 3.0i just fine, so its not a generic Z3 issues.

The 20 pin port cap has to be on the port for the inside OBD2 port to work.

Have a read through the attached doc to see if anything helps.


Finally got it to read, I got a different Bluetooth obd connector, a veepak mini reader and after a couple of attempts it works now.

You do analysis of the readings? How may I utilise your help? As I have pesky lean codes that I can't seem to fix! :)
 

NZ00Z3

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How may I utilise your help?
Read this thread and set up OBD Fusion as per the instructions: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/obd-fusion.1240733/#post-18380161

Run the three standard logs of cold start, hot idle and 60 mph cruise. Post links to the logs in this thread or load them into Datazap and I'll have a look.

You can learn about reading the logs yourself in this thread: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/how-to-read-obd2-engine-diagnostic-logs.1303572/

Two other good threads are:
 

id101

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Excellent cheers will try and get some thing sorted over the weekeend
 

id101

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Ok sorry for the massive gap in time had some health issues.

I've tried setting everything up as per the write up and done the cold start report, but looking at the log it doesn't seem to have logged anything at all unless I'm mistaken, i have all the elements added on the dashboard of odb fusion as that was the only way to put them on as the guide has slightly different instructions that dont show on the app (i am assuming time has changed things) anyway i've attached the report it gave me
 

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NZ00Z3

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You don't have to set the PID's up on the dash board.

To set the PID's up to log you work through the settings/preferences/logging/select PIDs menu.
 

id101

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You don't have to set the PID's up on the dash board.

To set the PID's up to log you work through the settings/preferences/logging/select PIDs menu.
Ahhh ok I couldn't find that before it was named slightly different and spent an age adding all those dashboard elements! Ok got it now will try again tomorrow 🙂
Cheers
 

id101

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You don't have to set the PID's up on the dash board.

To set the PID's up to log you work through the settings/preferences/logging/select PIDs menu.
ok then, did all three cold, 60mph and warm idle
thanks for your help it is very much appreciated
 

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NZ00Z3

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Thank you for the logs. The hot idle and cruise log came through good, well done. The cold start log had no PID's in it, just like your first lot.

Are you getting the lean codes more when driving than when at idle? The logs show that the cruise total fuel trims are worse than the hot idle total fuel trims. This is indicative of a fuel pump soft failure. The fuel delivery is running out of specification when driving (low fuel pressure)

The fuel pump can be checked with a fuel pressure tester. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for connection. The fuel pressure should be 50 PSI +/- 3 PSI at all times.
 

id101

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Thank you for the logs. The hot idle and cruise log came through good, well done. The cold start log had no PID's in it, just like your first lot.

Are you getting the lean codes more when driving than when at idle? The logs show that the cruise total fuel trims are worse than the hot idle total fuel trims. This is indicative of a fuel pump soft failure. The fuel delivery is running out of specification when driving (low fuel pressure)

The fuel pump can be checked with a fuel pressure tester. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for connection. The fuel pressure should be 50 PSI +/- 3 PSI at all times.
Oh bloody hell! I must have sent the wrong one in the zip I'll send that one separately again.

I did do a test on the pump pressure and whilst sat it looked to be within the parameters, 47ish if I remember correctly.

What tends to happen I've found with the engine codes is that I'll clear them, it'll run fine for a full journey and I'll think it sorted but then every second or so journey afterwards it will tend light up again usually whilst driving under no stress. The fuel pump soft failure was going to be my next go to so if the readings are looking to point in that direction as well then I will definitely try that.

Thank you for this it's incredibly helpful as I've been pulling my hair out over it! :)
 

NZ00Z3

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Try changing the fuel filter first. An easier job than the pump and another possible cause.

The cold start log shows that the pre-cat O2's are OK.

Another possible cause is the MAF. We can check this with a specific log called a Rev-Rise Log, See Blow. Give is a try and I'll do the Math to check the MAF.

Rev Rise.
This test is for checking your Mass Air Flow Meter (MAF). Hot engine and Cat’s, stationary car. The test is best done just after a drive.

Slowly raise the Rev's of the engine up from idle to 3,000 rpm. I mean slowly. It should take you 3-4 minutes to do this test. It takes some skill to do this test due to the lightly loaded engine. A little throttle change results in a large rev change. Don’t run up and down the rev range getting used to the control. If you stuff up the first part of the test getting used to controlling the small rev changes, then redo the test.
 

id101

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Try changing the fuel filter first. An easier job than the pump and another possible cause.

The cold start log shows that the pre-cat O2's are OK.

Another possible cause is the MAF. We can check this with a specific log called a Rev-Rise Log, See Blow. Give is a try and I'll do the Math to check the MAF.

Rev Rise.
This test is for checking your Mass Air Flow Meter (MAF). Hot engine and Cat’s, stationary car. The test is best done just after a drive.

Slowly raise the Rev's of the engine up from idle to 3,000 rpm. I mean slowly. It should take you 3-4 minutes to do this test. It takes some skill to do this test due to the lightly loaded engine. A little throttle change results in a large rev change. Don’t run up and down the rev range getting used to the control. If you stuff up the first part of the test getting used to controlling the small rev changes, then redo the test.
Fuel filter, ccv, air valve, all O2/lambda sensors all changed, smoke test done by indy nothing from that. Also swapped out the maf for another and no change. I could give the maf test a go, not sure on my throttle control though lol

The fuel pump does make sense it was where I was going to next anyway, plus the car has done 128k miles so it could be due anyway!
 

id101

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Update, new fuel pump in, not driven far I did have a lean codes, cleared it and it's not back yet, but again i haven't driven far so fingers crossed.

One thing that seems to have happened is my fuel guage doesn't seem to want to go to full
 

id101

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Sadly given it a longer drive and the lean codes are back, at a loss now. Anyone else got any ideas I've pretty much replaced everything:(
 
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