Z3 3.0 EML, DSC and ABS lights, going in to limp mode

[Richardrix]

Hi, my new to me 2000 3.0 Z3 has become undrivable. Driving along and the EML, DSC and ABS lights will come on, the engine revs will start to faulter and then after a few seconds the lights will go out, the engine goes back to normal and away we go. A little further on and it will do it again. Sometimes, the engine light will also come on and then the engine cuts out. Will refuse to start again until I take out the key, leave it a few seconds and then try again.

Other intermittent items to note,
- something when I press the brake pedal the ABS will kick in for no reason. This is when I first set off and coming to the give way at the end of the road, still in first gear. Doesn't do it all the time, just now and again.
- somtimes, will not start, tries to start but nothing. Will start if I leave it for a few seconds and then try again
- after driving for a few miles, when I stop the car, the amber oil light comes on. This indicates low oil but the oil is in the middle of the dip stick when checked. I presume a faulty oil level sensor. Doesn't do it every time I stop the car.

So far, have changed the crank shaft sensor, to see if this would cure the car not starting.

I think that I have a dodgy oil level sensor and somewhere a wheel sensor, but which one.

The local garage diagnostics are not picking anything up apart from a dodgy pre-heater O2 sensor on Bank 2 (why does it always seem to be Bank 2?) but they say they don't know which sensor this is on the car to change it.

 

[t-tony]

Bank 1 is pre cat and bank 2 is post cat. My money is on inlet cam position sensor.

Tony.

 

[Richardrix]

Bank 1 is pre cat and bank 2 is post cat. My money is on inlet cam position sensor.

Tony.

Thanks Tony. I will show the garage on Monday and see if they can look in to this.

 

[t-tony]

If you do change the inlet cam sensor Richard it is dead easy. I did a “How to” guide when I changed the one on my Z3. Same process.

Tony.

 

[Richardrix]

If you do change the inlet cam sensor Richard it is dead easy. I did a “How to” guide when I changed the one on my Z3. Same process.

Tony.

Just reading my receipt from the garage. They changed the crank position sensor. Is the inlet sensor a different one? Are there multiple position sensors?

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Are there multiple position sensors?

Depends what you mean by multiple. Parts 5 & 18 on this.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts Z3 E36 Z3 2.2i Cylinder Head Vanos

www.realoem.com

 

[t-tony]

Both cams have their own position sensor mate. Inlet is the most common one to give issues.

Tony.

 

[NZ00Z3]

1. If the local garage can't read a code reader and work out which O2 sensor is faulty, then that is the garage to never go back to. The O2 sensor codes are dead easy to read and work out which sensor is the problem.
2. When ever a warning light comes on, the module will store a trouble code. You will have trouble codes in the Engine DME and the ABS module. Until you post the code numbers and descriptions we are all just guessing on the cause. With the best intentions, but guessing all the same. A generic OBD2 scanner will read the DME codes. You'll need a scanner with BMW software to read the ABS codes. You'll need to connect to the 20 pin port under the bonnet/hood, so will need a BMW 20 pin to OBD2 adapter cable.
3. Bank 1 = cylinders 1 to 3, Bank 2 = cylinders 4 to 5. They do not mean pre-cat or post cat.

Options for a Scanner with BMW software:

• Find a local forum member with the kit and get them to read the codes and advise you. This is the best option as you appear to be a learner in engine maintenance and having another person with experience beside you will same a lot of effort and frustration.
• INPA on a windows laptop: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...tions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation
• Foxwell NT530 with BMW software
• Creator C110
• Creator C310+

 

[t-tony]

Richard, you can come over anytime and we can read the codes with my Foxwell nt530.

Tony.

 

[Richardrix]

Thanks for all your comments guys. I really do appreciate the help.

I have INPA and BMW Scanner. And I connect to the 20 pin. @t-tony won't be able to bring it over as it keeps cutting out so can't drive it far. Here is the log I got fro BMW Scanner

So the O2 sensor will be from Bank 2, at the back of the exhaust. The exhaust is a twin-pipe so it will be the driver side pipe. Would that be correct?

It reports an error about a wheel sensor but not which sensor it is. However, seeing that there is an error on the Yaw Rate sensor, I googled symptoms and this seems to show DSC/ABS lights coming on. I wonder if I need to change this sensor.

It also reports oil consumption but I presume this is a faulty level sensor since there is plenty of oil.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BMW Scanner v1.4.0.7 (14.01.2009) - P.A.Soft, 2008 HW: V144Bn9 Time: 15:01:33 17/05/2022
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


ZCS coding : /-------- IKE --------\ /-------- EWS --------\
Chassis : -
Model : -
Type key : -
Engine : -
Gearbox : -
VIN : LJ40176 WBACN52050LJ40176
ZCS GM : 1EC21200-P 1EC21200-P
ZCS SA : 00004020A2C058D1-7 00004020A2C058D1-7
ZCS VN : 7EDFFFADB6-I 7EDFFFADB6-I


# SCAN START
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit BMWTNR HW SW-FSW CI DI BI/VI Date Odometer VIN ADFG Algorithm
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 7.509.942 19 51 00 11 60 22/00 221450 km WBACN52050LJ40176 820EF8 MS43.0 M54 (EWS3)
EWS -> 4.101.593 01 06 82 82 07 23/00 - WBACN52050LJ40176 FFFFFF EWS3D
ABS -> 6.753.598 02 36 09 70 60 19/70 - - 000176 DSC E46
LEW -> 1.094.142 06 02 01 01 60 14/00 - LJ40176 000176 LWS5
SRS -> 6.908.896 20 26 11 08 00 17/00 - LJ40176 000000 MRS3
IKE -> 6.901.520 06 11 03 90 00 20/00 221764 km LJ40176 FFFFFF 0 (E36 CAN)
TOENS -> 1.438.022 31 22 10 10 00 21/00 - - 550176 TOENS2


# USER INFO FIELDS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit Date VIN Odometer Assembly Software Service Dealer Tester Program ver.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 09.07.00 WBACN52050LJ40176 0 km 7.509.459 7.509.460 7.503.718 012321 42324 -


# ERRORS IN UNITS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unit BMWTNR HW SW-FSW ERRORS / SHADOW-MEMORY
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> 7.509.942 19 51 3 errors / 7 errors
EWS -> 4.101.593 01 06 3 errors
ABS -> 6.753.598 02 36 3 errors
LEW -> 1.094.142 06 02 3 errors
SRS -> 6.908.896 20 26 2 errors
IKE -> 6.901.520 06 11 no errors
TOENS -> 1.438.022 31 22 no errors / 1 error


# ERRORS DETAILS - DTC(hex)/PARAM(hex)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DME -> BF/F8 - Insufficient heat output, oxygen sensor after catalyst, bank 2, sensor heater faulty
99/B4 - Oxygen sensor voltage after catalyst, bank 2, open circuit
D1/A8 - EWS signal is wrong, EWS code implausible
Shadow-memory:
BF/F8 - Insufficient heat output, oxygen sensor after catalyst, bank 2, sensor heater faulty
99/B4 - Oxygen sensor voltage after catalyst, bank 2, open circuit
D1/A8 - EWS signal is wrong, EWS code implausible
5A/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 1, signal line, short circuit to negative
5C/12 - Exhaust temperature after catalyst, bank 1, signal line, short circuit to negative
5B/12 - Exhaust temperature before catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative
5D/12 - Exhaust temperature after catalyst, bank 2, signal line, short circuit to negative

EWS -> 0F/3F - Power on reset
00/21 - Wrong identification, key 0
23/01 - Toleration of changing code increased, key 2

ABS -> A2/F3 - Yaw rate sensor not plausible
76/F1 - Control unit error, electromagnetic interference wheel speed sensor
A1/FD - Yaw rate sensor electrical failure

LEW -> 0B/CB - Wrong LWS-ID
0C/AF - CAN-Bus off
09/9F - No CAN message (ASC)

SRS -> 12/08 - Fault lamp (AWL)
11/A0 - Power supply

TOENS -> Shadow-memory:
02/13 - Warning: Oil consumption


# SCAN END
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[NZ00Z3]

So the O2 sensor will be from Bank 2, at the back of the exhaust. The exhaust is a twin-pipe so it will be the driver side pipe. Would that be correct?

Yes, it will be on the drivers/right hand side, along with the Bank 1 exhaust. You have a straight 6 engine and not a V6. Bank 2 is cylinders 4 to 6, so it's the back manifold.

Thank you for the codes and descriptions.

• Due to the mix of fault and shadow codes, check the O2 sensor wiring from the cats to the back of the engine. Make sure that they are clipped in correctly and not waving around in the breeze. If unclipped, the wires have a tendency to get melted to the exhaust system and start causing the codes you are getting.
• O2 sensor heater circuits should have a resistance of between 2 to 5 ohms.
• Remove and clean the tips of all ABS sensors on the wheels. Sounds like one has lots of metal filing sticking to it.
• Yaw rate sensor is under left hand seat. Remove seat (key out of the ignition, so you don't end up with an airbag light). Pull apart the split in the carpet and inspect. Check for moister in the carpet foam backing. Usual yaw rate failure mode it water ingress. If it's wet, dry the foam and fix the water leak before fitting a new sensor or you'll be back doing the same job again sooner than you would like. Inspect the sensor for corrosion on the connectors. There are 2 sensors in there, the lateral acceleration sensor and the yaw (rpm) sensors. In the back of your wiring diagrams there are component location diagrams. Check 7100.0-15.2
• Steering angle sensor (LEW). Check it's status and operation in INPA. You should be able to see the sensor signal move when you turn the steering wheel. It may need a calibration. Instructions are in section D, 3 in post #1 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...tions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation
• Toens. Ignore the code. Keep checking the oil with the dip stick. Change the oil sensor in the bottom of the oil sump/pan when you next change the oil.

 

[Peter1450]

Great info above, thanks guys! Had all three amber brake warning lights come on yesterday morning but not yet had time to get the laptop connected, coincidentally the amber oil light came on when the ignition was switched off!

 

[Richardrix]

Just been in to see my local garage. They are going to change the Lambda sensor, do an oil change and change the oil level sensor. Look at changing the inlet sensors and check out the Yaw sensor. Fingers crossed that this will resolve all the issues.
As I just dumped the car on them, they will fit it in when they can. I will update when I have further information.

 

[t-tony]

Both cams have their own pisition sensor mate. Inlet is the most common one to give issues.

Tony

 

[Richardrix]

Both cams have their own pisition sensor mate. Inlet is the most common one to give issues.

Tony

Yep, started explaining that to them. They seemed to know. Fingers crossed all this sorts the issues. Will be a really nice car when it runs.

 

[Richardrix]

Changed yaw sensor. No change. Still got issue. Going to have to try wheel sensors but nothing being reported so not sure which to change. Also oil light still coming on. And still have no start sometimes. Losing the will now.

 

[Richardrix]

So, today is the first day I have had to have a play with the Z3 due to work, which is why I have been sending it to the garage, and I think I may have found the cause of the lights coming on and cutting out issue. Whoever said it could be something to do with the battery or wiring is virtually spot on. The big long bolt that you can use to fasten down the battery, you know the one? Well, that had been put in to hold the battery down on the positive side of the battery, and upside down so the cross-head was lodged on the floor of the car and the big bit that is supposed to clamp the battery on the lip at the bottom was up by the positive terminal, if you knock it slightly it would short on the positive battery terminal. Removed it and took the car out for a 5 mile drive, over many bumps, and not had the issue yet. Need to put a lot of miles on it to confirm that this is the issue but it makes so much sense.

 

[Richardrix]

Done over 50 miles this morning and no eml, dsc or abs lights and no cutting out. Do still get the amber oil light but that could be a casualty of the shorting out. I know there is plenty of oil. Looks like that was the issue, a simple and no cost fix.

 

[t-tony]

Done over 50 miles this morning and no eml, dsc or abs lights and no cutting out. Do still get the amber oil light but that could be a casualty of the shorting out. I know there is plenty of oil. Looks like that was the issue, a simple and no cost fix.

Let’s hope you nailed it Richard

Tony.

 

[Richardrix]

Let’s hope you nailed it Richard

Tony.

So far so good, going on 70 miles and nothing apart from the oil light