Wiring loom replacement project

[Mario]

Quick question ' apart from the butyl what´s that other sealing strip called or what product did you use or where does it go, is it a row of butyl then that other tape then another of butyl on the bottom each side of the sealing strip? Also I am assuming you are putting the butyl etc on the frame of the car frist then sticking the sealing strip then the butyl etc again on the other side of the sealing strip while is still being held by the butyin on the other side then finally locate the hood and start screwing fasterners.

This is a job I am planning to tackle and I have been dreading doing it but once I go ahead I want to have all the materials and a good understanding of the process. Two person job for sure. I guess start screwing from the center of the car towards the sides also?

 

[mrscalex]

The other sealing material is a neoprene foam self-adhesive strip. I use 10mm wide. 5mm height. Which is how I measured the original. I can't remember the exact sequence with the butyl. But it's obvious from the old material when you pull it off. There is also very little room for manoeuvre to get the 2x butyl and 1 foam strip in the correct position. Eye it all up carefully. 2 butyl all the way round is definitely more of a handful than 1 plus extra in the corners. But it's doable. And if you get it right you'll feel the hood is invincible. The butyl I use is 8mmx8mm. But some small flexibility +/- 1-2mm should be okay. Not sure what was used by the factory as can't measure once it's all squished down.

Always put the butyl and foam on the side that doesn't move. Rear bulkhead not sealing strip. Then sealing strip not hood frame. Leave the wax paper on the butyl until after the moving side is in position. Yes, it's awkward getting your hand in there but you risk getting in a pickle with stuff sticking where it shouldn't otherwise. And yes, bolt from centre outwards.

Yes, 2 people a must for reassembly. Removal not really.

 

[ktnez99]

We'd already decided on the basic strategy. Chop as much of the old loom out as possible while leaving all connectors in situ with 6-9 inches of cable attached. That way we could see what needed connecting back up from the new loom and with what connector.

There was no point trying to keep the old loom whole anyway - it was after all knackered!

There are various spare connectors on a Z3 and taking this approach will hopefully avoid scratching our heads over these.

We also took loads of photos before any stripping out.

The main concern with running the loom around the car was whether we could pass the driver side behind the heater matrix without taking it out. We felt we should give it a go after seeing the loom laid out.

Here's the first section chopped out. It's the section that runs under the passenger seat.

View attachment 90071

And here's the trainee engineer cutting the section that runs behind the heater matrix at a point near to where it goes through the bulkhead to the fuse box.

View attachment 90072

The loom at this point is as thick as your wrist.The thick red cable is one of the two battery positives. This one is the main feed for the car and is bundled into the loom itself. It's way too thick to cut with wire cutters. So we'll hacksaw it. The other battery positive (not here - driver side) goes straight to the starter and is separate to the main loom. We won't be changing that.

View attachment 90074

After cutting the battery positive that left the passenger footwell looking like this.

View attachment 90073

OMG! And this is what a stripped out Z looks like! I feel sick! I really don’t fancy this with my car!!!

 

[mrscalex]

OMG! And this is what a stripped out Z looks like! I feel sick! I really don’t fancy this with my car!!!

I’ve done it so many times it doesn’t bother me. It’s actually very basic to strip out really. You just have to be organised with all the fixings.

 

[ktnez99]

I’ve done it so many times it doesn’t bother me. It’s actually very basic to strip out really. You just have to be organised with all the fixings.

“Very basic”?!? It looks very complex to me. Fancy doing my car?

 

[Vic-Z3]

Well mrscalex & co ........................... omg.
Nothing much I can say really. So very much impressed
Let me know if you ever want to sell it.

 

[Mario]

The other sealing material is a neoprene foam self-adhesive strip. I use 10mm wide. 5mm height. Which is how I measured the original. I can't remember the exact sequence with the butyl. But it's obvious from the old material when you pull it off. There is also very little room for manoeuvre to get the 2x butyl and 1 foam strip in the correct position. Eye it all up carefully. 2 butyl all the way round is definitely more of a handful than 1 plus extra in the corners. But it's doable. And if you get it right you'll feel the hood is invincible. The butyl I use is 8mmx8mm. But some small flexibility +/- 1-2mm should be okay. Not sure what was used by the factory as can't measure once it's all squished down.

Always put the butyl and foam on the side that doesn't move. Rear bulkhead not sealing strip. Then sealing strip not hood frame. Leave the wax paper on the butyl until after the moving side is in position. Yes, it's awkward getting your hand in there but you risk getting in a pickle with stuff sticking where it shouldn't otherwise. And yes, bolt from centre outwards.

Yes, 2 people a must for reassembly. Removal not really.

Thanks buddy ill let you know how I get on

 

[mrscalex]

We have a complete car again

And we spun it up and down the cul-de-sac and it felt good. No noises. Smooth and tight

Welcome back Willy 3.5 years after your incident took you off the road. Back better now than probably any time since you were about 7 years old. I think I might even be able to see a small smile on that grille

We still need to get an MOT and there’s a few tweaks before we can do that. Including properly clamping the cut exhaust back together. And aligning the headlamps.

Things have slowed with the shorter evenings. But fingers crossed within 2 weeks now.

 

[t-tony]

Nice one Rob, it's a better of a car mate.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

Nice one Rob, it's a better of a car mate.

Tony.

Thanks Tony. Can you recommend a quick and easy way to get a good enough alignment on the headlamps. Always seem to struggle with that.

 

[t-tony]

I would try parking a "known" good car against a wall or garage door and draw the lines, in chalk, on the door/wall of the images from the known good alignment car. The position the new car and adjust the lights to match.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

I would try parking a "known" good car against a wall or garage door and draw the lines, in chalk, on the door/wall of the images from the known good alignment car. The position the new car and adjust the lights to match.

Tony.

Do you know what. I've never thought of using a known good car! Thanks

 

[ktnez99]

Looks great Robert - and so does the black Z.