Wax oil treatment.

Bloo Toon Davie

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I live beside the coast and my local. garage recommends spraying underneath my z3 with wax oil,what are the pros and cons of this material.?
 
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Nodzed

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Good stuff, used it for years.

Don't let it dry on any bodywork paint if it gets there as its a bugger to get off. If spraying from a compressor or pump gun you will need to thin it down and apply several coats. The rattle cans are great but its an expensive option. Paint on is a good option but it wont get into all the cracks and crevasses like spraying. (I use a combination of painting on and spraying)
As I understand it MOT fellas don't like it applied to metal brake lines (@Stevo7682 @t-tony )
Keep it off rubber components, exhaust, bodywork ..................... and brakes :whistle:
 

JimS

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Z4 G29 30i
Waxoyl is not a rust converter, just extremely good at slowing future damage by acting as a waterproof barrier, so ideally it should be a final stage after rust removal and conversion. If you get it done professionally, the 3 stages will cost around 1200 ( that's what I was quoted on my Jag anyway). Its a messy job to do yourself and difficult without a lift.
It's better in sealed sections like sills and doors, than on open areas, as it wears off easily, so underbody needs coating every few years to maintain cover.
Many people prefer Dinitrol to Waxoyl but I don't know the differences.
 

t-tony

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It’s not a problem for Testers Niall, it usually turns out to be a problem for vehicle owners who get an advisory on their certificate stating stating that the pipes are covered with underseal, etc. Never was an issue for me, would rather see Waxoyl than black under seal.

Tony.
 

Bloo Toon Davie

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1.9
Thanks for your views,I have no rust to cure just to help prevent any future rust problems, so wax oil will do the job as he recommended to help keep the damp salty air off the underside.
 
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MartinJ

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I have just used Lanoguard in the inner sill box section. Had read reviews which seemed quite good. Only issue is if you get it in your hands you have a baaaad smell of sheep. its made from Lanolin I believe so might be more environmentally friendly. Worth checking out the youtube videos and their website.
 

MartinJ

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Just to say i live in North Somerset and think my Z might have been taking dips in the sea at Weston -super -Mare regards the rust and sand coming out of the arch liners when I took them off.
 

MartinJ

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I am also using epoxy paint on the underside. Jjust cleaned and painted after taking rear end off. Brushing not spraying. bit messy but the effect is lovely.
 

colb

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Newport, South Wales,UK
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Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.5 (2003)
Took my Z3 sills off to check condition, no rust behind mine or on the outers so quick clean then Waxoyl clear painted and sprayed on the inners and Waxoyl black on the inside of the outers. Arch liners all removed and arches cleaned then applied clear waxoyl. Have always used Waxoyl, if spraying it pays to thin it with a little white spirit also when using it neat heating the can up by putting it in a bucket of hot water assists with getting it applied into all the seams.
 

abh29

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Had ours done a few years ago , firm just outside Warrington. They are well set up ,ramp outside to steam clean it all (wheel arch removed)
Waxoil was hot sprayed. The only trouble was they got a lot of spray on the inside of bonnet and near the wheels. In fairness they made a good job job of cleaning it all when I pointed it out. It really did take some shifting. We were impressed a year ago to see the amount behind the cills Unfortunatly we had to renew them due to rust and some previous repairs before we bought her. Still looking great after 4 years.
 

137699

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Hampshire
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M Coupe 3.2 S50
When mine went into the bodyshop for some tidy up work last year I asked them to waxoyl behind everything before reassembly.
These are the photos they took...

5751.jpg

5751a.jpg
5751b.jpg
5751c.jpg
5751d.jpg
 

Woodsta888

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Exmouth, Devon
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2.0
Waxoyl fine for prevention. But if you have rust, most examples will, you need to get as much off as you can back to bare metal and use a converter/sealer to treat those areas before covering in something like waxoyl.
Bilthamber Hydrate 80 is good. I did the inner front wings and have left them under the house for over a year (damp) and no rust has come back at all- and I didnt apply any protection yet. Just the bilthamber stuff - really impressed. And it's just paint on with a brush.
 

DrWong

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3.0i
Plus one for Bilt Hamber, all their stuff is amazing. My work flow for treating rust is angle grind the loose stuff, then get back to bare metal with Bilt Hamber Deox C or Gel (incredible stuff), then epoxy prime, seam seal, colour coat etc.

Also used their cavity wax and underbody wax (seems similar to Waxoil). Great range of products for DIY'ers and garage tinkerers :thumbsup:
 
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