Warm start problem

[Perfectjake]

Wondering if anyone has any ideas.

My '97 z3 1.9 has problem when starting warm. When I try to start the car maybe 15-30 mins after stopping the engine spins but doesn't fire up, I can then try again and it starts fine. It starts every time from cold without a hiccup. Anyone else have some insight into this?

Also thinking about getting a code reader to use on my z3 and my dad's one (51 1.9) any good ones around?

Thanks.

 

[andyglym]

Wondering if anyone has any ideas.

My '97 z3 1.9 has problem when starting warm. When I try to start the car maybe 15-30 mins after stopping the engine spins but doesn't fire up, I can then try again and it starts fine. It starts every time from cold without a hiccup. Anyone else have some insight into this?

Also thinking about getting a code reader to use on my z3 and my dad's one (51 1.9) any good ones around?

Thanks.

Hi

The C110 is what many use though be sure to get the adaptor for your Zed (20-16 pin as in the link)
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...gheMA0&usg=AFQjCNH7nKlQkTQegodcgYkgcN7ibxMhng

Not sure on the starting issue but somebody will be along soon.

Welcome

 

[t-tony]

A code reader is always a good addition to your tool box Jake, does the car run ok when it's going?

Tony.

 

[Perfectjake]

Runs absolutely fine once its going

 

[t-tony]

Runs absolutely fine once its going

I would start with a very thorough inspection of all the rubber induction components , also does the car have a fuel filter and if so has it been changed recently?

Tony.

 

[Perfectjake]

Thank you Andy, just bought one.

I think it does have a fuel filter, no idea when it was last changed as I only acquired the car a couple of weeks ago. Also i'll have a look at all the rubber induction components.

 

[Perfectjake]

Looks like it was serviced recently. New oil and filter and air filter, and fuel filter looks spotless (brand new). Just passed MOT easily and looks like all bushes and suspension arms have been replaced fairly recently. Looks like I will have to wait for the code reader to find out what is wrong.

Edit: Just tested battery, 12.6 volts when off 13.75v when on and idle. So I think that rules out the alternator/bad battery.

 

[Brian4]

Hot starting seems to be cam sensor fault and stalling when putting the engine under load from idle is air leaks in the induction.

Code reader is starting point but not always the full answer.

 

[oldcarman]

Be sure to check those hoses carefully as some cracks don't show up easily and usually on the underside of bends where you can't see them clearly. Use a small mirror and bend and squeeze to be sure. Also, just because a fuel filter looks clean on the outside doesn't necessarily mean it's clean inside. HTH JIM

 

[Perfectjake]

Good point, due to it's very clean oil/filter and new air filter it doesn't seem unreasonable to assume the shiny oil filter is new too. A;so I will really thoroughly check the hoses!

I'll see what the code reader throws back. Looking around changing the cam sensor may be a good call.

 

[oldcarman]

I'd check the hoses before going to the cam sensor unless a code shows up. It's amazing how a very tiny spider web looking crack can change things with your ratio of air. A crack can certainly open as your engine revs and turns in the compartment. HTH JIM

 

[billysally208]

I had this recently on a Vauxhall - started from cold perfectly - but once engine up to working temperature would refuse to restart - wait 15 mins and it would restart again and run perfectly until switched off again. It was the Crankshaft sensor - seemed to fail when warm.
The C110 diagnostic tool is ok (if you have good eyesight - the screen is a bit small) - I use one of them, and have recently bought the Delphi DS150e which is very good and will also do many other makes of cars as well as BMW's

 

[Dobiwallah]

Can you reset the airbag light with the Delphi DS150e or the C110? Or align the steering wheel?