Using pond water as coolant!!

[Fraser]

Morning all,

I had an hour or so spare this morning so I thought I would check what my coolant looked like as I've had temp issues with the car since I had it, but I've never got as far as getting round to sorting it.

Needless to say I was a bit surprised just how bad it was when I dip tested it.....

I'm sure I've seen this stuff when I've been carp fishing!

Can someone please tell me how much coolant I'm going to need to replace this washing up water??

I believe that it's a 50/50 mix I need, but how much volume does the cooling system take?

Thanks in advance......

 

[Faheem]

My 4 cyl M44 took around 7 litres from empty.

 

[Fraser]

Thanks @Faheem, that's great!

What coolant did you use in your system?

Tesco have got Prestone on offer but I'm not convinced it's going to be any good as it says it can mix with any previous coolant? Sounds a bit dodgy to me.

Has anyone used this before??

 

[mrscalex]

You’ll pay nearly as much for 3rd party stuff and it may not be the right thing.

Just go to BMW is my advice.

 

[Ianmc]

Could do with a good flush before adding new coolant.

 

[Faheem]

@Fraser I filled mine up with distilled water and added some radiator flush. Drove it around for a while then flushed all of that out and replaced it with coolant.

I just used TripleQX stuff that I already had lying around but if I had to buy coolant then I would have got it from BMW.

 

[Nodzed]

IMO Dont go to BMW and pay over the odds absolutely no point, just get a good antifreeze and distilled water and mix 50 50. Or buy a recognised name pre mixed coolant. Flush the system first.

 

[Mazza]

A flush through would be a good idea, there may be all sorts of ‘ pond life’ in there.

I was lucky in a way as I had my radiator off, so able to wash that through using a hose, then put the hose in one of the pipes and let it flush through the engine till is ran clean. Then reassembled it all.

I bought this coolant from my local motor factors together with 5 litres of distilled water , mixed 50/50 in a spare 5 litre container which was then filled slowly into the system, then poured the rest of the distilled water into the antifreeze container, and topped up and bled the system.
Then you have the remainder ( approx 2-3 litres ) to top up as and when required.

When I bought it there was an option of green or blue. As mine was originally the green one thats what I used.
You could see on the expansion tank there was a greenish tinge on the plastic.
Mines be done for a while now ( about 1500 miles) and have had no issues with it at all.

Definitely wouldn’t pay the BMW prices!!!!!

 

[DrWong]

Ahh the great coolant debate! I topped-up me ma's Yaris with Prestone and she hasn't had any problems

When I changed my thermostat though, I refilled with BMW coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water as per handbook. In terms of economics, the BMW stuff worked out only slightly more expensive per/litre than a named brand and I was happy to pay the difference to know that what I was putting in was exactly to spec for the engine.

I'm pretty sure most modern coolants are fine though

 

[Fraser]

Thanks for your views and opinions everyone

How easy is it to dismantle the front of the car and remove the radiator as I'm thinking of doing the waterpump and thermostat whilst I'm at it? Can a very mediocre warehouse manager with some tools manage it?
Is there any thing else I should think about doing/replacing whilst I'm there? Will I need any replacement clips etc?
I'm coming across some rusted bolts holding on the undertrays at the minute that will need replacements fitting when it goes back together so I'm thinking I'm going to find more along the way and I like to be prepared!

 

[Ianmc]

It's not difficult to replace the radiator. I simply followed the service manual with no difficulty. Whilst it's out, a good time to replace water pump and thermostat; again not difficult. Have fun!

 

[Mazza]

Good call to do the thermostat and pump.
I can scan and email all the appropriate pages of Bentleys service manual if you PM me with an email address.
Plus I have various photos that I can upload if you would like any.

Basic tools required, but you will need a 32mm spanner and locking bar to remove fan. ( you’re a bit too far from me to borrow mine) I used a sealant on the thermostat gasket, only because one of the mating faces on mine was a bit pitted, and didnt want to take a chance of it weeping.
Make sure the waterpump has a metal impeller not the plastic one.

I cant think that there any plastic clips that would be a problem. There are two, one either side at the top of the rad, holding the cowl on, my but squirt them with WD40 and they will undo ok

The undertrays are held by 6 or 8 self tappers (8mm hex head) at the front end with 2 (10mm hex head) at the rear of the panel. I have the BMW part numbers for these and body nuts if needed.

Air filter , radiator cowling and rad removed.....gives you loads of room !

Also raise the front end of the car first, as you need it up to fill and bleed the system, plus it needs to be lifted to remove the undershield.
I also put some plastic tubing over the radiator drain tube and drained it into a bucket to save it flooding the garage.

 

[Sean d]

Any old antifreeze mixed with tap water will do

 

[Fraser]

That's great @Mazza, thank you.

I was having a look at the undertray earlier thinking that it should be coming off a lot easier than it was, but I think I have to remove both parts together.

Any photos you have are always a good start too!

 

[mrscalex]

For those who are saying don’t pay BMW prices. How much do you think it is?

The last lot I had was £11.50 for 1.5 litres. You need 3. So that’s £34.50.

The G48 is £25 in Halfords.

So are you keen to save a tenner? At the possible risk of not using a compatible type? Or do you think it’s cobblers that you need to use a specific type anyway?

 

[Sean d]

Or do you think it’s cobblers that you need to use a specific type anyway?

Yes, my thoughts exactly

 

[Mazza]

For those who are saying don’t pay BMW prices. How much do you think it is?

The last lot I had was £11.50 for 1.5 litres. You need 3. So that’s £34.50.

The G48 is £25 in Halfords.

So are you keen to save a tenner? At the possible risk of not using a compatible type? Or do you think it’s cobblers that you need to use a specific type anyway?

I have no problem with paying an extra 10.00 if I have to, but your quote was a lot cheaper than I was quoted by my BMW dealer. No I dont think its cobblers at all. The G48 is a compatible type, and as the system had been completely flushed through, there was no mixing of different inhibitors.
I also get a good discount at my local motor factors, which is within walking distance, against the BMW dealer which is a 20 mile round trip. So for me it was the better option and to be honest cant see any problem with it.
Only time will tell, if I made a good or bad decision, but done 1500 miles since and no issues so far.
I bought lots of genuine parts from my local BMW and also Sopers when I did the rebuild (one being £114.00 for the camshaft sensor), whereas other parts like the water pump and idler bearing I got quality parts off ebay.

I accept what you are saying but BMW have an interest in selling spares.

How many people buy the special lubricant, as specified by BMW, to fit the control arm (wishbone) end bushes. (Lollipops) .........Probably not many and it only costs about £5.00, but I wonder how many just use a silicon spray or washing up liquid. And yet BMW state that failure to follow the exact procedure may impair the cars handling and stability

 

[gookah]

I always drive to the BMW dealers to put air in my tyres. I find it runs smoother, and the warranty remains intact.

Also I only use the BMW screen wash, as the bugs know the difference and the wiper blades last longer.......

 

[mrscalex]

I think we're missing the point with the BMW bit. And also missing the opportunity to give the facts to the OP and let him make his own decision.

It makes sense to use eg, G48 if you know your antifreeze and know that it's compatible. But there are a lot of anti-freezes out there that are not chemically compatible with materials used in a BMW engine and places that the coolant passes through like the heater valve. The level of phosphates and silicates varies between antifreeze types and correct selection is relevant.

If it was all made up and not important then why don't Comma make one antifreeze for all engines? I've just checked on their website and they show 6 different types to match various manufacturer requirements. From memory, I think BMW antifreeze needs to be phosphate free.

But if you don't want the hassle of understanding all that, then for a few extra quid it's sensible to buy BMW so you know you are on safe ground.

It does matter what you put in your engine. And even water will prove that.

Use of tap water rather than distilled water is important if you live in a hard water area like Swindon. If you live in a soft water area like South Wales then not an issue. The tap water in Swindon killed my steam iron and leaves a white coating on taps, shower screens and sinks. I bring tap water back in a jerry can from Swansea now and use that in my steam iron - no problem. I really don't want Swindon tap water in my engines as it will do the same as it does around my house. If tap water can fur your engine up then I'm not putting any old antifreeze in.

I don't care what other people use if you want to take the risk. Perhaps you don't think it is a risk. But I think someone who asks the question should be given both sides to make an informed choice.

I'm no BMW fan boy but it's cutting off your nose to spite your face if you think everything BMW sell is expensive and unnecessary. A good example is a passenger footwell storage net. £20 from BMW. Usually £20-£25 secondhand. Same thing with side/marker front bumper lights.

 

[Fraser]

Guys, I'm really sorry, I didn't mean to start an argument around this, I was just looking for some advice and I've definately got some varied opinions around the topic, so thank you all for your valued input.

With all of the information you guys have given me and with my own observations, I'm working to the conclusion that the best course of action would probably be the following -

1. I have no idea which coolant was used last (BMW or another, or even mud maybe looking at the colour of it!!), so it would be silly to not to flush the whole system out and start again. I would probably use tap water for this and remove the radiator etc to get right in there as I have the waterpump to do as well.

2. Flush the system until the water remains clear when emptying it back out. (I'm guessing this may take a few runs to do?? What do I set the heating controls to to flush the matrix??)

3. Use ionised water and a compatable coolant in the 50/50 mix in the final fill.

I presume that the water temp is generally at around 90 degrees celcius when the engine is up to temperature, so this means that there will be some condensate and steam coming off the water. This is where any impurities in the water will show up and cause a possible blockage dependant of calcite content?? I'm also guessing that this will be s gradual build up over time and may not even be apparent for about 10 years if tap water is used constantly, but it kinda makes sense to me, (think about gallstones) . It is a risk that can be easily avoided, but it depends what resources you have available and your attitude to risk I guess.

From my point of view its interesting to see how many different views are out there on this, so thank you.