Transmission warning light

[Dobiwallah]

Guys,
I was standing in a traffic jam because of an accident, when I noticed that my transmission warning light was on. The Z didn't pull up so smoothly anymore, and all the torque was gone, in short, emergency mode. The cruise control still worked. The Internet told me to change the brake light switch which I did, but that didn't help. I dedusted an old computer and had to find cables and mouse etcetera. I tried to read out modules with carsoft, but it couldn't find all the modules, which is normal. I couldn't find the fault with carsoft, but also not with Inpa. Any suggestions? Should I bring it to the stealer, or can any car mechanic handle these situations?

 

[NZ00Z3]

The automatic transmission has a separate computer called EGS. Look for the error codes in the EGS. Access to the EGS is only via the round socket under the hood/bonnet.

 

[Dobiwallah]

I tried to connect via the round socket and the OBD2 socket. Maybe the carsoft software just can't get at it. With the Inpa software you have to choose "shift-F5" to get to the older cars. When I choose E36 I can access certain modules, but not the EGS.

When I come home from work I will have a look at my brake pads. Some say it can be them as well, but you would expect to have your brake light coming on.

 

[NZ00Z3]

..

 

[Dobiwallah]

Thanks for the link, I give it a try when I'm back this afternoon.

 

[t-tony]

I used to get the Transmission light on my 2000 Z3 Auto now and again. I could delete the code via the OBD2 port under the o/s dash.
I get the same light on my 2003 Z4 Auto also and can delete it the same way. I have no idea what triggers the light and code apart from usually a very tight turn to the left, which made me think speed sensor in the Diff.

Tony.

 

[Dobiwallah]

I checked with the torque app on the OBD2 port, but that one doesn't see the fault. It only sees the camshaft sensor fault which I have sometimes.

 

[Dobiwallah]

I tried to install the newest INPA, but my Windows XP was appearently to old, I got the message that it was not a valid Win32 applicator. Besides that, the newest INPA doesn't work with a ADS cable the bimmer forums told me.

Anyway, after fidling around, and playing with the com port settings I was able to connect to the EGS module via the OBD2 plug. Don't ask me why, it just worked, inclusive the DME/DDE module.

So now I could read what is causing the fault.

I got a 104 DTK temperature sensor fault which I could reset and the fault below:

P Single diagnosis EGS - Status: ERROR !
" Module Info : EGS
Version: EGS 7.32 "
Supplier : Bosch
Device Nr. : 1423505
Hardware Nr. : 23
Diagnose index: 70
Bosch Hardware Nr. : 0000000000
Bosch Software Nr. : 590
Production Nr.: G03
egs3_feh.dxt:
5 Pressure regulator. Verify the cable between the EGS Control Unit PIN5 ant the solenoid valve.0 Verify also the winding of the solenoid valve.
Single diagnosis completed

Now the next question is, is this an easy job? Has anybody done this solenoid? Where can I find it, there is not a lot of info on the net about a pressure regulator

 

[colb]

Had a look on OEM parts site and found this
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CL32-EUR-01-2000-Z3-BMW-Z3_20&diagId=24_1605
5 solenoid valves listed for the 2.0l auto box. Check the wiring loom to them before changing them may be a dodgy connection causing your fault if the ECS isn't seeing one of them.

 

[NZ00Z3]

..

 

[Dobiwallah]

Thanks Colb an Murry, these files points me to the right direction. I always wanted to know how an automatic works. If my driveway has dried up today the first thing I do is check the wire loom. Sometimes the bottom of my Z is hitting the gravel from dirt road leading to my driveway. At the moment I can't do a lot because my garage is still not repaired after the cyclone Cook damage of 3 months ago. I can't park inside at the moment. The roller door is stuffed.

As I understand from a few youtube videos, to reach the pressure regulator valve you need to drain the hydraulic fluid en open up the pan. Not a typical driveway job with dust blowing in the open part.

So I'm a bit doubting if I should bring it away. My pride says, no you can do this yourself. And my wallet says it will cost you $$$$. But other jobs around the house are stacking up, the limited time factor as usual.

Anyway, I am back on nightshift for seven weeks and can drive misses Dobiwallahs Rav4 (slowboot to china, don't let her read this) to work. Gives me plenty time to figure thing out. The garage should be repaired over about 3 weeks (they say...)

 

[Dobiwallah]

I did today een continuity test between the plug of the EGS and the plug to the gearbox. The wire between 5 and 6 is ok, even if I wiggle the plugs on both sides of the cable. I also measured all the solenoids
Solenoid 1 = 25.7 Ohm
Solenoid 2 = 18.7 Ohm
Solenoid 3 = 29.19 Ohm
Solenoid 6 = 5.0 Ohm (Hydraulic pressure regulator, the problem solenoid)
Solenoid 7 = 19.1 Ohm (Torque converter clutch solenoid)

There is not really a consistency in the values of the solenoid valves. Strangely enough I also measure values again the mass of the car and the solenoids.

Does anybody knows how much resistance solenoid 6 should have? This solenoid is not particular cheap to buy, If I know that this 5 Ohm is way to low or to high I dare to order one somewhere.

 

[NZ00Z3]

Do you realise that using an ohm meter to test a DC coil requires you to let the measurement settle? You will get a range of readings while the battery in the ohm meter charges the inductive reactance of the coil, then you will get the steady state resistance.

 

[Dobiwallah]

yeah, I waited until the value was steady. Does anybody have the time to measure the value of pin 5 and pin 53 on the big plug? It only takes 5 minutes...

 

[Dobiwallah]

I brought the Zy to the local auto transmission specialist. Bad news for me. He opened the tranny up and found all metal particles in the pan and the magnets. Hens the reason I measured a ohms resistances between the wires and the mass. It shorted the pressure regulator solenoid out. A overhaul is gone cost me $4000 plus GST. I just don't have the facility and time to do this my self. I had a quick look at a manual conversion, but I might as well buy another Z manual for the cost and effort.

My Z has only 80.000 km on the counter, that was a short life of the tranny. I'm an easy going driver, but have had the refs up to 6500rpm when I was climbing a hill from Napier to Taupo. I can't image that that would ruin my gearbox. Any thought on this?

 

[t-tony]

I would at least try a fluid and filter change and see where that leaves you. 80k KM is roughly 60K Miles ? That is very unlucky at that mileage.

Tony.

 

[Dobiwallah]

I would at least try a fluid and filter change and see where that leaves you. 80k KM is roughly 60K Miles ? That is very unlucky at that mileage.

Tony.

I think that if the metal parts are shorting out the solenoids, the transmission is to far gone.

Yesterday my son spoke to my German neighbor in the street. The German is a (of course) BMW addict, and he told my son about a European car specialist in town who gave him a quote of NZ$3000 for an auto to manual conversion of his E36. So I went to the guy to ask him about a conversion, and he told he can do it probably for the same money as the overhaul of the automatic transmission.

Within 10 minutes I drove to the transmission specialist to cancel the overhaul of the transmission. I hope he is not to upset about the cancellation, luckily he hadn't started yet. And now my Zed is at the other place waiting to be "converted"

I have done a auto conversion before myself, but that was with an 1974 Simca 1501. That was a piece of cake. But doing a Z3 myself is a step to far for me...

 

[Dobiwallah]

Ok, I did some research on diff and gearbox ratio. My Z has a LSD with an ratio of 4.44. When I was driving 100 km/h the rpm was around 3000 rpm on the dial. If I calculate that theoretically, 3200/120*100=2666 rpm, less then the dial shows.

With a manual gear that would be 3450/120*100=2875 rpm with 100 km/h

If I keep the auto diff the online percentage calculator says there is a difference of 22.3% between the diffs. So basically When I drive 100 km/h than 1.223 * 2666=3260 rpm

That is a bit much I think, any suggestions? Are my calculations correct?

Automatic
1th gear ratio: 2,86:1
2th gear ratio: 1,62:1
3th gear ratio: 1,00:1
4th gear ratio: 0,72:1
Reverse gear ratio: 2,00:1
Final drive: 4,44:1
RPM at 120 km/h (theoretical): 3.200 rpm


Manual
1th gear ratio: 4,23:1
2th gear ratio: 2,52:1
3th gear ratio: 1,66:1
4th gear ratio: 1,22:1
5th gear ratio: 1,00:1
Reverse gear ratio: 4,04:1
Final drive: 3,45:1
RPM at 120 km/h (theoretical): 3.450 rpm

 

[NZ00Z3]

I get 3,606 rpm @120 km in my spread sheet. 3,005 rpm @ 100 km. PM me your Email address and I'll send you the sheet.

My 2.0 L manual Z3 has a 3.45:1 diff and sits at 3,000 rpm @ 100km.

 

[Dobiwallah]

Thanks for the spreadsheet Murray
With a 5 speed I definitely need another diff. With 16" (I have 17") I would do 3868rpm. Bit high aye?

I read of guys putting a E46 6 speed their Z. Is there somebody here who has done this? With a 6 speed I could leave my diff in.