Track rod ends

[Mazza]

Went to have tracking checked today as steering wheel Is just off centred when driving. (Has been since I got it)

Turns out that the near side adjuster is seized and they could not move it even with heat.
Said only way was to have a new track rod assy. And quoted me £175.00 to do both sides. I was told that it may take a time to separate the unit to get it off.

I’ve been looking a prices and parts range from 25.00 for the pair to about 40.00 for one. (Different makes and quality?????)

The other thing I have found looking through the manual and online.....and please correct me if I have got this wrong, but to remove the track rod, you break a ball joint one end, and remove the gaiter and unscrew the other end, so you don’t actually have to do anything with the seized adjuster anyway????
If this is the case I’m sure it’s something I could do, and set it up initially by measuring the current distances then get the tracking done after.
Also where would be the best place to get a pair of track rods

I would be grateful for any help and advice

 

[colb]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/te...acement/69-SUSPEN-Tie_Rod_End_Replacement.htm

As to where to get them try any of the online parts companies, I use Carparts4less and use their discount codes that appear on their home page. They have a choice of makes on offer Lemforder are a reputable make.
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/track-rod-and-track-rod-end
Also check BMW for their prices.

 

[t-tony]

Went to have tracking checked today as steering wheel Is just off centred when driving. (Has been since I got it)

Turns out that the near side adjuster is seized and they could not move it even with heat.
Said only way was to have a new track rod assy. And quoted me £175.00 to do both sides. I was told that it may take a time to separate the unit to get it off.

I’ve been looking a prices and parts range from 25.00 for the pair to about 40.00 for one. (Different makes and quality?????)

The other thing I have found looking through the manual and online.....and please correct me if I have got this wrong, but to remove the track rod, you break a ball joint one end, and remove the gaiter and unscrew the other end, so you don’t actually have to do anything with the seized adjuster anyway????
If this is the case I’m sure it’s something I could do, and set it up initially by measuring the current distances then get the tracking done after.
Also where would be the best place to get a pair of track rods

I would be grateful for any help and advice

I unseized one for @simonlincs last year mate. It was solid, but, if you have a large vice with an anvil and a large hammer you can free them off by beating the lock nut and tapered locking collar on the the anvil while turning occasionally. Your other option is the buy the bits and set them up to length roughly as you suggested.

Tony.
ps. Beating the parts on an anvil will slightly stretch the metal and allow it to move eventually.

 

[Nodzed]

Mine were the same, heat is your friend, and when you get them loose or replace, copper slip is your very best friend.

 

[Antm72]

You are correct mine where seized you can replace the track rod end or do it complete with the rack end.
The outer lower ball joint requires popping and then with the gaiter removed rack end you can unscrew the complete unit from the rack.
You should be able go get the tracking close enough by measuring new to old and then get the car tracked as planned.

 

[Mazza]

That’s it then... order the two new track rods ( complete units) , fit them and get the tracking checked.

Got all the Torque settings from the z3 manual,
Just been in the garage and found a ball joint separator ( haven’t used this one in years!!!!)

And the 32mm spanner I bought to do the viscous fan unit is the size that is needed to undo the gaiter end.

Just need to find the parts on the inter web and then......All systems go

 

[DrWong]

I changed my track rods last year and paid about £40 for a pair of Meyle jobbies from the Bay. I'd never done the job before and it took about three hours in my back yard. I tried counting the threads but found it easier just to loosen everything off and reset the tracking off the back wheels using the string and jack stand method.

It's definitely all do-able at home including the tracking afterwards, because as you say you don't have to mess around with the seized bit once you've cracked the ball joint. Re: taking a long time to separate the assy, I'd take that with a pinch of salt. The steering rack end of the rod was very tight for me and there was no room for a breaker bar. However I got round that by putting a spanner on the end of the rod and then trolley jacking the other end of the spanner up to turn it. Oh, and you need a huge spanner for that end, like a 32 or 34.

If you decide to DIY it (and I encourage you to do so!) you may need to budget for the ball joint separator (£10) and - in my case because I had a warning light to knock out due to the steering geometry changing so much with the new rods - INPA software + cable (£30) to reset the steering wheel sensor. But both very worthwhile investments IMO

 

[DrWong]

Just seen you covered off the ball joint and massive spanner point as I was writing my post - good man

I definitely encourage you to try and reset the tracking yourself with the string method though. I'd never done it before and found it surprisingly easy and accurate, to the point where I don't think I'd ever pay someone to do tracking for me now.

 

[colb]

When I changed my tie rods on a Kia Sorento I used a tool like this for the inner joint at the rack end.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-inch...340623?hash=item33dd03b84f:g:eOwAAOSwPCVX-GpY

Got mine from Halfords and it worked a treat.

 

[Mazza]

Pair of Merle trackrod ends ordered....£50.00 with 2 yr warranty, and free 48hr delivery.
I didn’t realise there were so many different manufacturers of these parts.....some are really cheap but I would imagine quality not so good?

Thanks to all.

 

[Mazza]

Parts turned up today so might get on and swap over tomorrow.
Just a couple of questions

The gaiters have the crimped bands on them. No issue getting them off but I don’t think they can be reused, and I don’t have the tool anyway. Is it ok to use cable ties?? I’m sure they were used on the old Mini CV gaiters as part of the split gaiter repair kit.

Is it easier to fit the steering rack end first or the wheel end first?

Any additional tips to know about????

 

[Nodzed]

Parts turned up today so might get on and swap over tomorrow.
Just a couple of questions

The gaiters have the crimped bands on them. No issue getting them off but I don’t think they can be reused, and I don’t have the tool anyway. Is it ok to use cable ties?? I’m sure they were used on the old Mini CV gaiters as part of the split gaiter repair kit.

Is it easier to fit the steering rack end first or the wheel end first?

Any additional tips to know about????

@Lee can you advise

 

[Lee]

I bought a sealey tool that makes them, around £30 i think. If your not to far away your more than welcome to use it.

I have seen cable ties used but not sure if its MOT passable though.

 

[Mazza]

@Lee
You have convinced me...I wasn’t too sure about using cable ties, but thought I would ask the question

It’s not worth bodging the job.....so I will get a Sealey crimp tool and the clips and do the job properly.

 

[Alan Walter]

Hi @Mazza

I changed just the outer last year on my prev 2.8. got the inner off, cracked the ball joint (sharp tap with a hammer on the steering knuckle), and then kept on applying heat and cold (CO2 fire extinguisher) to it until I managed to free it with ease. I wound the new piece on to approximately however many turns it took to loosen, and then I had tracking checked at the garage - didn't have to change it!

Not bothering this time with my 3.0, just changing inner and outer at the same time with Meyle HD replacements.

As for the Gaiter, I just used a replacement Jubilee clamp

Cheers,
Al

 

[Mazza]

I actually changed both sides yesterday using Meyle parts. Fitted new gaiters with the crimp type clamps. the old gaiters are actually ok so will clean them up and keep them.
Got the tracking done and now the steering wheel is straight and all aligned correctly.

I played around with the seized unit by heating and using stilsons and a hammer etc but it never moved.
This was obviously the reason the steering wheel was not straight as someone had done all the adjustment on the other side.

 

[Antm72]

Glad you got it cracked

 

[mrscalex]

I used cable ties to get a car through the MOT.

I've now got the correct size clamps and tool to do the job properly.

I haven't tried it yet but hopefully this is the correct tool.

 

[HellRot]

is there anyone on here who can provide a good price for inner and outer track rod ends?