Torque - Parts Terminology

[Martin Sullivan]

Hi all,

Thank you @Mazza for the great list of torque settings.

The main problem I’m having is finding the right description / terminology in the list.
Can someone help. I need to know:

Suspension struts - front - 2x bolts into hub / knuckle assembly. Is this “Steering Arm to Strut Housing”? 107Nm?

Outer track rod to hub / knuckle assembly. Is this “outer tie rod end to steering arm”? 45Nm

Control arm to hub / knuckle assembly. Is this “Control Arm Ball Joint to Steering Arm”? 62Nm

Having written this out, I think my question should be:
Is the front wheel hub / knuckle assembly referred to as the “Steering Arm” in the torque list provided by Mazza?

Thanks
Martin

 

[Mazza]

Hi Martin, all the info for the Torque list came from my Bentleys Z3 Service Manual. This is an American publication so you have to translate it in English

Copied a couple of pictures for you, but if you need any more info please ask.

 

[Martin Sullivan]

Steering arm! That’s the piece!

By no means is that an “arm” of any sort in my mind hence why I was confused.
I must try and think (backward) like an
American next time

Thank you.

 

[gookah]

This is an American publication so you have to translate it in English

US to UK:

Driver's side = passenger side
Hood = headwear
Tire = become weary
Rotor = helicopter part
Trunk = elephant's nose
Gas tank = LPG storage
Fender = guitar






mind you, UK to US:

Driver's side = passenger side
Bonnet = head wear
Boot = footwear
Wing = aeroplane part
Disc = music storage

 

[Martin Sullivan]

US to UK
Driver's side = passenger side
Hood = headwear
Tire = become weary
Rotor = helicopter part
Trunk = elephant's nose
Gas tank = LPG storage
Fender = guitar






mind you, UK to US:
Passenger side = driver's side
Bonnet = head wear
Boot = footwear
Wing = aeroplane part
Disc = music storage

Ha! Very good. We best avoid talking about Pants and Rubbers.

 

[t-tony]

And Fanny packs . . . . .

Tony.

 

[ZEDonist UK]

I thought I’d pull up my old post rather than create a new one.

The track rod end to knuckle and the control arm to knuckle have come loose despite being correctly torqued originally.
Everywhere else I used nylon nuts which have stayed tight but on these two areas I just used what was supplied with the new parts.

Does anyone know if these two areas would have had thread lock on originally?

im tempted to just swap them for nylon nuts

thanks
Martin

 

[t-tony]

I would fit new nylocs but fit a spring washer first.

Tony.

 

[DrWong]

From memory when I refreshed my front shocks, the bolts holding the hub to the strut need threadlock. I replaced these bolts with new ones from BMW which had thread lock pre-applied to them.

I've also replaced both inner/outer tie rods but don't recall using threadlock for those bits and they've stayed tight.

 

[ZEDonist UK]

Ill go for nylon nuts I recon. I prefer to avoid using thread locks.
I just wanted to check I hadn’t overlooked something

 

[Stevo7682]

On cars pretty much all nuts that are subject to vibration or movement with have some sort of locking mechanism on high stress it will most likely be nyloc or castellated nut and split pin on less stress bolts threadlock will more likely be used.
On a lot of the higher stress components the manuals will generally tell you to replace the nuts and bolts especially on stuff like rear hub nuts
Stephen.

 

[Delk]

I love thread lock. Besides keeping things from coming loose it also helps seal the threads so you don't get any corrosion. And you can get it in a variety of strengths from just a little to you will never come loose ever.

 

[Pingu]

View attachment 224901
Ill go for nylon nuts I recon. I prefer to avoid using thread locks.
I just wanted to check I hadn’t overlooked something

Is that nearly a whole turn (300 degrees) loose? - eek

If it's still tight, someone has given it an extra oomph and tightened it by 60 degrees.

 

[ZEDonist UK]

Nope, more than 300 degrees! It was only finger tight and the same on both sides! Needless to say the handling was a little off

I’ve never had anything come loose like this before especially after being torqued. Every other fixing was solid.

I’ve got some blue (medium strength) thread lock so having said I’d prefer not to use it I think I will.