Tip of the day - Injectors

Southernboy

Zorg Guru (II)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Points
100
I've just spent what might be the best 75 quid on a full chemical and ultrasound clean process of my 6 injectors.
All the O rings and micro filters were replaced as well as the flow rates and spray patterns tested and checked.
The beauty of it is that after I re-fitted them earlier today, I went off to the shops for some fruit & vegs.
To say I was pleasantly surprised would be understated. I had been contemplating pulling the Throttle body out and having it tested. I was thinking the motorised throttle had some issues. Driving was a a push the pedal and then wait a couple of seconds before the motor responded to the extra fuel being injected... Well, now with clean and serviced injectors the response is immediate and spirited. It's like a whole new experience of performance.
When I pulled them out, they were crud encrusted with carbon although looking at the pintle, it seemed the little holes were clear. When I got them back, I was a little puzzled when I noticed that those little holes were now even smaller !! I then realised that they had appeared larger because a ring of carbon had built up around the holes, and gave the impression of the holes being larger.
Bottom line - after 20 something years of living in the dark, your injectors could be depriving you of a heap of performance pleasure.
Removing the injectors is easy, but fiddly. The black plastic wiring box cconnecting to the tops of the injectors is held on by small wire clips - 1 per injector. The tricky part is, the clips face downwards - ie. the open end of the clips can be seen from above. The fear is losing one or more as it falls down into the dark areas below the manifold. - Well, here's the thing - only unclip 1 leg of the clip and carefully push it over the side slightly. With all six done, you can use a stiff flat screw driver to sequentially lever the plastic box off the injectors.
Once off, push the clip legs back so they are fully locked on. When re-fitting, you can simply push the black box onto the respective injector and it will clip on as required withou having to un-hook one leg again.
Once off you will have access to the 4 M10 bolts holding the fuel rail down onto the injectors. Remove them and then look under the rail at the connection point of the injector to rail - look from the camshaft cover side.
You will see that the rail has 6 clips - 1 / per injector. A needle nose pliers works perfectly - simply get a grip and slide them off towards the cam cover side. One all out, you can lift the fuel rail off. Whatever fuel is in the rail will spill out and down the side of the engine, but it's not a large amount and impossibe to catch.
Move the rail out the way as best you can, and you will be able to lift out the injectors.
Re-fitting is easier, since the clip issue if the wiring distribution box is easy. Also, dont worry about getting the injectors lined up accurately. They will swivel easily if you use a little rubber grease on the O rings top and bottom when fitting.
Re-assembling the injectors is best done by getting them connected to the fuel rail first, and then dropping them all into their ports in the manifold. Bolt and tighten the fuel rail down, and then simply press the black wiring / connector box onto them. Reconnect the Vanos connector and the vacuum hose, and re-fit the air distribution thingy on the top of the manifold, Reconnect the hose connecter for the CCV to the air distribution thingy and replace the fuel rail cover.
Bear in mind that there is no fuel in the rail or the injectors, and there is no fuel pressure. Switch on the ignition and wait for the fuel pump to re-fill the rail. Do not crank the motor - switch off and on in the same manner several times. This will give the fuel a chance to dribble into the injector tops. After 4 or so on / offs, you can crank the motor - it will not fire immediately because the fuel will need to be pumped to the bottom end of the injector and build up pressure so it is squirted into the cylinders as it should. The motor may run rough for a few seconds until pressure is stabilised, but then it will settle down to it's usual smooth idle.
Finally - you can not turn the ignition on while the injectors are out the car !! If you do, the fuel pump will have a field day pouring petrol all over the engine out of the fuel rail...

I can't say what the cost of a service will be in the UK. Here there was a large disparity between service providers. Some were double what it cost me, and one was cheaper by a negligible amount. The people I used are a well known performance company witha reputation for excellent work.
The deciding factor was they would collect and deliver free, which in itself is a saving in fuel costs.

As I said at the start - it's one service item which has likely not been done in 20 something years and the instant rewards in sponaneous response from the pedal will make you grin with pleasure.
 

Sean d

Zorg Expert (I)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Sep 29, 2015
Points
201
Location
Lincolnshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.8
I've just spent what might be the best 75 quid on a full chemical and ultrasound clean process of my 6 injectors.
All the O rings and micro filters were replaced as well as the flow rates and spray patterns tested and checked.
The beauty of it is that after I re-fitted them earlier today, I went off to the shops for some fruit & vegs.
To say I was pleasantly surprised would be understated. I had been contemplating pulling the Throttle body out and having it tested. I was thinking the motorised throttle had some issues. Driving was a a push the pedal and then wait a couple of seconds before the motor responded to the extra fuel being injected... Well, now with clean and serviced injectors the response is immediate and spirited. It's like a whole new experience of performance.
When I pulled them out, they were crud encrusted with carbon although looking at the pintle, it seemed the little holes were clear. When I got them back, I was a little puzzled when I noticed that those little holes were now even smaller !! I then realised that they had appeared larger because a ring of carbon had built up around the holes, and gave the impression of the holes being larger.
Bottom line - after 20 something years of living in the dark, your injectors could be depriving you of a heap of performance pleasure.
Removing the injectors is easy, but fiddly. The black plastic wiring box cconnecting to the tops of the injectors is held on by small wire clips - 1 per injector. The tricky part is, the clips face downwards - ie. the open end of the clips can be seen from above. The fear is losing one or more as it falls down into the dark areas below the manifold. - Well, here's the thing - only unclip 1 leg of the clip and carefully push it over the side slightly. With all six done, you can use a stiff flat screw driver to sequentially lever the plastic box off the injectors.
Once off, push the clip legs back so they are fully locked on. When re-fitting, you can simply push the black box onto the respective injector and it will clip on as required withou having to un-hook one leg again.
Once off you will have access to the 4 M10 bolts holding the fuel rail down onto the injectors. Remove them and then look under the rail at the connection point of the injector to rail - look from the camshaft cover side.
You will see that the rail has 6 clips - 1 / per injector. A needle nose pliers works perfectly - simply get a grip and slide them off towards the cam cover side. One all out, you can lift the fuel rail off. Whatever fuel is in the rail will spill out and down the side of the engine, but it's not a large amount and impossibe to catch.
Move the rail out the way as best you can, and you will be able to lift out the injectors.
Re-fitting is easier, since the clip issue if the wiring distribution box is easy. Also, dont worry about getting the injectors lined up accurately. They will swivel easily if you use a little rubber grease on the O rings top and bottom when fitting.
Re-assembling the injectors is best done by getting them connected to the fuel rail first, and then dropping them all into their ports in the manifold. Bolt and tighten the fuel rail down, and then simply press the black wiring / connector box onto them. Reconnect the Vanos connector and the vacuum hose, and re-fit the air distribution thingy on the top of the manifold, Reconnect the hose connecter for the CCV to the air distribution thingy and replace the fuel rail cover.
Bear in mind that there is no fuel in the rail or the injectors, and there is no fuel pressure. Switch on the ignition and wait for the fuel pump to re-fill the rail. Do not crank the motor - switch off and on in the same manner several times. This will give the fuel a chance to dribble into the injector tops. After 4 or so on / offs, you can crank the motor - it will not fire immediately because the fuel will need to be pumped to the bottom end of the injector and build up pressure so it is squirted into the cylinders as it should. The motor may run rough for a few seconds until pressure is stabilised, but then it will settle down to it's usual smooth idle.
Finally - you can not turn the ignition on while the injectors are out the car !! If you do, the fuel pump will have a field day pouring petrol all over the engine out of the fuel rail...

I can't say what the cost of a service will be in the UK. Here there was a large disparity between service providers. Some were double what it cost me, and one was cheaper by a negligible amount. The people I used are a well known performance company witha reputation for excellent work.
The deciding factor was they would collect and deliver free, which in itself is a saving in fuel costs.

As I said at the start - it's one service item which has likely not been done in 20 something years and the instant rewards in sponaneous response from the pedal will make you grin with pleasure.
Good write up and I'm sure a lot of Z's would benefit from it, I have been reading about fitting bigger injectors, some say the benefits are staggering however some of this may be that the originals where not performing as they should
 

Southernboy

Zorg Guru (II)
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Points
100
I suspect you're right about the OEM not performing up mto par Sean. Regarding larger injectors, I would be cautious. It would require the air intake to compensate. Personally, I would really like to find a guru who knows the intracies of the OEM DME setup. The Z3's were deliberately de-tuned to comply with emissions controls in the USA when they were manufactured. I gather that the full potential of these cars lies in re-programming the DME to provide the full performance capabilities. If I consider that the 728 i (tank) was running the same motor as the M52 and M52TU, and basically outperforming the Z3, the performance parameters are in the DME.
My next step will be to find the guru - I have replaced the M52TU intake manifold and fitted the M54 3.0 manifold with the monster DISA valve and runners which match the intake ports on the cylinder head. I also changed out the OEM intake cam and fitted the M54 intake cam, which provides one degree more lift and some 15 degrees extra duration. This amounts to a heap more air getting in compared to the OEM M52TU setup. I could take the car to a tuning shop and they could do some basic re-mapping to optimise the upgrades, and that would likely give me some considerable perfromance enhancement. Removing the cats on the exhaust side would also create more power. But ultimately I would like to get inside the DME issue. Once that has been covered, one should know clearly what is possible.
 
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