Time I pulled my finger out

[mrscalex]

Only reason I’m removing the hubs is to change the back plates. Shame the bearings have to get wrecked to remove the hubs as they are quite and smooth on rotation but will replace with Myle HD or AG. Once the Deox gel has done its stuff I should be able to assess those spot welds better but had a scratch with a screw driver and appear ok but shall see. In case of welding required or am considering seam welding the whole lot was considering this Dirty Pro Tools™ Professional Mig Welder Gasless 100A 100 Amp 230V No Gas with Mask & Welding Weld Wire with Accessories https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OX40FZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BYWZCbGA4Z2T9 but need to do a bit more research first.

I would choose your bearings very carefully given the enormous job it is to replace them. I’ve read a number of stories on forums in recently researching this area where people bought 3rd party bearings and regretted it.

I recently discovered that not all things Meyle are good. Meyle HD yes generally. Meyle Standard which I think the bearings are - less so.

BMW used 2 bearing suppliers FAG and a name that escapes me. But you won’t find the second supplier on retail sale anyway so it doesn’t matter.

FAG bearings are generally available although a little more money. And I don’t doubt some suppliers rebadge FAG bearings. Although I would expect it to still say FAG in the centre - just the box it’s shipped in changed.

I’ve been biding my time on eBay and managed to pick up FAG bearings for £15-£20 each.

The Z3 rear bearing is used on a stack load of BMWs including more modern ones. So there are tons out there on eBay.

 

[Althulas]

FAG bearings that’s the one that I’ve seen recommended cheers

 

[Althulas]

A little update. In this warm weather I have found the Deox gel would dry out despite thick applications so needed doing every three days. Lots of wire brushing with the angle grinder do get to clean metal. Then given a coat of Phos Kleen B basically a medium acid with gives a phosphate coating. Just one more area to go over with a full strength acid amazing to watch it eat the rust away. The two spot welds I were concerned about cleaned up well and intact the spot welds come up a darker grey. The ends of the inner sills are not to bad the driver side looking worse around the jack pad area but will have to be done when back on its wheels. Another clean at the weekend with a coat of epoxy paint to apply then seam sealer once cured and a suitable top coat to go on.

 

[Lee]

Wow man that's some work, what's the mileage on that shell ?

P.S remove the circlip, makes pulling the hubs off easier.

 

[Althulas]

92000 on the shell there about a. Some of the pics make it look worse than what it is, amazing on how much sealer there is but needed taking back in parts to get back to clean metal. The outer sill are scrap totally corroded at the ends but inners look good. I have a replacement bonnet, rear and front wings all A one panels sprayed up ready to go on, I have some spare sills which will do for now.

I’m refurbishing where possible , but some brackets were to far gone to bother with considering the replacements were reasonably priced. I have a full set of Stronflex bushes so will be pretty new underneath when finished so should be good for another 20 years.

The engine has been rebuilt and not fully run in yet and will need a visit to MR Vanos to complete the overhaul.

 

[Lee]

92000 on the shell there about a. Some of the pics make it look worse than what it is, amazing on how much sealer there is but needed taking back in parts to get back to clean metal. The outer sill are scrap totally corroded at the ends but inners look good. I have a replacement bonnet, rear and front wings all A one panels sprayed up ready to go on, I have some spare sills which will do for now.

I’m refurbishing where possible , but some brackets were to far gone to bother with considering the replacements were reasonably priced. I have a full set of Stronflex bushes so will be pretty new underneath when finished so should be good for another 20 years.

The engine has been rebuilt and not fully run in yet and will need a visit to MR Vanos to complete the overhaul.

Just to elaborate on the hub removal, remove the large nut and unbolt the drive shaft. You'll also see a circlip to remove. I use a large threaded bar with a bearing each end and pull it off. Takes around 10mins a side like this.

 

[Grumps]

Blimey Mark your really going for it. Good luck, I hope you get the desired results.

 

[Althulas]

Underneath ready for epoxy paint and sealer after that. I was planning on overcoating with the same green paint that’s underneath which I presume is a primer? Any ideas anyone?

 

[t-tony]

If you want it to look original Mark, that'd be the way to go, if not I would say use any well known quality paint that is used in exposed areas under vehicles. @Sean d

Tony.

 

[Althulas]

Slow steady progress the diff was caked in rust, grease and muck after 7 hours of angle grinding with wire brush attachments, degreaser and had to resort to some phos kleen A acid to shift the muck in between the fins. The body is now acid etched with phos Kleen B and drying off. I did have illusions of grandeur of polishing the diff cover but I think some high temp aluminium paint will have to suffice after I’ve dremeled the old bush out.

Found a nice diff bolt screw set http://www.specialclassicparts.de/e...GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/83478026/Products/FW001 They also have the diff output cover bolts.

 

[Althulas]

After lots more cleaning up finally got to hang the washing out. Just the caliper hangers, beam plates to clean up and prime. Then onto two pack epoxy paint for the underneath of the rear end, rear beam and trailing arms. Drive shafts primed and given a coat of hammerite smooth other stuff will get the same after. I bought some rubberised paint for putting a coat to the underneath of the trailing arms and diff for a bit more protection, maybe a bit overkill?

 

[Mint]

Coming on well Mark

 

[Mazza]

Great work Mark.....I look forward to doing mine...

 

[FRANKIE]

Well worth doing pal and makes a massive difference, soon look like this
View attachment 100583

Did you have that frame cleaned and painted or did you do it yourself, and if so, how?..................Frankie

 

[Althulas]

I used a wire cup and wheel on a angle grinder Frankie, Ground any rust off to clean metal then areas acid etched with Phoskleen B https://www.rust.co.uk/product/phos-kleen-b-rust-remover-28 I could have saved some time and effort if I has used some paint stripper prior to angle grinding stuff.

 

[Althulas]

It was a bit to warm yesterday for the 2 pack epoxy paint as it was going off quick and needed deft work to use up so only did the rear beam but today was better and got the trailing arms done. A nice finish roller brushing but the sponge rollers don’t last long. Just the rubberised spray to do underneath the trailing ante and a top coat of hammerite satin to finish. Only other painting jobs is painting the Calipers and hangers and some bolts that can be reused. Just another nut, bolt, washer, braided lines, bleed nipples,!and wheel bearing order to finalise and before putting it all back together oh and some suspension bits to collect.

 

[Althulas]

Progress is a bit of a crawl at the moment due to working away in Cornwall and a trip to Germany this week so the wife can say hello to family and take in some sight seeing.

Underneath now refurbished and brake pipes in the sort of right locations I think the rear passenger side was a bit tricky, resorted to bending the pipes around sockets for the tight bends. I could not find a tool like in @t-tony thread. I ended up buying some secondhand front Calipers due to seized bleed nipples that did not go so well on one of them being drilled out and they came at a good price. Calipers and carriers painted just the logo to be painted and rears to be rebuilt.

Hopefully will have the rear beam back in on the next update.

 

[Jjim]

Fantastic work there

 

[Althulas]

Paint drying off but not entirely happy looked a smoother finish in primer I should have spray painted in two minds to cover with paint stripper and start again. Any thoughts on highlighting the ///M a bit to chavvy perhaps?

 

[Paul H]

Personally I'd just paint over them.