How To Guide Tighten wheel bolts/nuts

t-tony

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Ok, most of us fit our own wheels but do we correctly torque up the bolts as they should be?

1. I use a long "stud" to aid with locating the wheel onto the hub. This has a slot cut in the end to facilitate removal if it's a bit tight to turn.
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2. Next, I use a short extension and socket to screw in the bolts, again much easier than using just your finger and thumb.
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3. Next I use my impact wrench on the lowest setting (1 on my Ryobi tool) to run the bolts up and "nip" the wheel to the hub.
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4. When you have all the wheels back on and the car back on the ground, apply the handbrake and select P if it's an Auto.
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Remove the chocks from the front wheel.
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and then all that is left is to torque up the wheel bolts.
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5. To torque up the bolts you have to set the wrench to the applicable figure for the vehicle you're working on. In this case 120nm. Something kindly pointed out by @Jack Ratt :thumbsup:when tightening a 5 bolt pattern I tighten one, then skip one, working my way round the wheel.
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I set the wrench horizontal to start with, after I applied the correct torque the wrench had moved approx. 15 degrees below horizontal, indicating the the bolts had turned.
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If you use the impact wrench any higher than the low setting the wheel bolt will already be "over tightened".
I can show this by moving the wrench to the next bolt. When placing the torque wrench horizontal and applying the correct torque the wrench does not move from the horizontal position, meaning that the bolt is already too tight. nb. After use the torque wrench should be de adjusted back to zero for storage - you should not leave a torque wrench under tension for long periods of time.
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Hope this is helpful and if you have a question please ask.

Tony.

ps. Next time you have tyres fitted please pay particular attention to the person tightening your wheel bolts. IF the torque wrench does not move, it is already too tight. If wheel bolts are tightened to the correct torque the tool supplied with the car is adequate to loosen the fixings. If you see this happening, go and complain and ask for it to be correctly.

pps. I almost forgot one important detail, please make sure your wheel centre caps are correctly aligned with the valve stem. Apologies fir the dirty valve caps @andyglym , speed limiter is on.
 
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Jack Ratt

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How about the bolt tightening sequence, or is it no longer a recognised practice?
 

mwpe

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Whenever I have new tyres fitted, the first thing I do when I get home is recheck the torque on the wheel nuts.
 

t-tony

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How about the bolt tightening sequence, or is it no longer a recognised practice?
Good point Garry. Something I just take for granted but i will add that. Thanks mate!

Tony.
 

t-tony

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Whenever I have new tyres fitted, the first thing I do when I get home is recheck the torque on the wheel nuts.
Do you sometimes find they've over tightened them Mike?

Tony.
 

Stevo7682

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Also if I may add Tony

Always make sure all hub faces and inner wheel faces are cleaned up and free of corrosion ( the flange that sticks out the wheels sit on can be lightly greased)
NO grease on wheel bolts .

Stephen.
 

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ktnez99

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When my wheels are off to do the discs and pads, can we go through this, please @t-tony ?
 

ktnez99

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Also if I may add Tony

Always make sure all hub faces and inner wheel faces are cleaned up and free of corrosion ( the flange that sticks out the wheels sit on can be lightly greased)
NO grease on wheel bolts .

Stephen.
Forgive my asking what some might think is a daft question: why does this matter?
 

t-tony

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t-tony

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Forgive my asking what some might think is a daft question: why does this matter?
It reduces the risk of wheels coming loose. This is also why you should not paint the mating surfaces of the brake disc/hub ares as some do.

Tony.

ps. And no, it's not a silly question at all.
 

Stevo7682

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Dawn what happens is the 2 metals ( alloy wheel and hub ) react with each other causing (galvanic corrosion ) corrosion

Quite often wheels seized on so if you don't clean it will be tight going on then you end up using the wheel bolt to draw the wheel on possible damage to hub and bolts through stretch of bolts also wheels may not be fully on .

Secondly if you do get wheel on ( say only small amounts of corrosion) you tighten it up seems fine but what has happened is you have crushed the corrosion a bit and it powders and falls away leaving the wheel not fully against hub .

Both of these scenarios will lead to 1 thing.

The wheel comes loose ( best case ) or completely off ( worst case )

Stephen.
 

t-tony

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Used to be common but the place I have used recently actually use a torque wrench.
That's good as long as they're used correctly. I used to complain to my old boss about it but all he was concerned with was the fact that it appeared that they were doing it right (even if they were not) which was a CYA operation. You can't beat DIY though Mike.

Tony.
 

Pingu

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When tightening, I lower the car so the tyre is gripping enough not to turn when the torque is applied. If the wheel isn't properly seated and the car is lowered onto its full weight, the bolts could be tightened, but the wheel is still loose.
 

the Nefyn cat

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Actually in Nefyn. My, that took a while.
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When tightening, I lower the car so the tyre is gripping enough not to turn when the torque is applied. If the wheel isn't properly seated and the car is lowered onto its full weight, the bolts could be tightened, but the wheel is still loose.
Just the same back when I was doing this sort of stuff for a living, if it's a wheel that can be locked (handbrake or similar) torque it up off the ground, otherwise get just enough weight on it to stop the wheel turning and torque it. And a drop of thin oil/WD40 or the like to lubricate the nuts and bolts, you're not measuring the friction in the threads. Definitely NOT on the faces of the wheel and hub.
 

gookah

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t-tony

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When tightening, I lower the car so the tyre is gripping enough not to turn when the torque is applied. If the wheel isn't properly seated and the car is lowered onto its full weight, the bolts could be tightened, but the wheel is still loose.
This exactly why I say run the bolts up with the gun on lowest setting. This will seat the wheel properly but not exceed the torque for the bolts.
As for Torq stix, I have never used them but don't doubt they're good for what they're used for.

Tony.
 

Nodzed

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I almost forgot one important detail, please make sure your wheel centre caps are correctly aligned with the valve stem
:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:=))=))=))=))
 
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