Got a cam sensor code on my Coupe, so I'll be trying this out sometime soon. Thank you.
And then I saw this. Something else to watch.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AnSzKzyzh8
I watched the video you posted the link to.
Did you notice the difference between the Meyle replacement sensor and the OEM. The OEM sensor shaft is considerably narrower in diameter than the Meyle sensor. Now here's the rub - I was reading a post on Bimmerforums regarding a P0340 fault code issue. The OP replaced the sensor with a non OEM sensor which was exactly like the Meyle sensor - fat vs thinner OEM.
Anyhow, the result was that the replacement sensor didn't resolve the PO340 code. The OP obviously didn't know how to test the OEM or new replacement sensor, and decided to buy a new OEM sensor, which after fitting appears to have resolved the P0340 code issue.
He made the conjecture that it might be that the fatter non OEM sensor wasn't reading the signal as sharply as the OEM sensor because of it's larger diameter. In other words, he was suggesting that the larger diameter meant that the proximity disc on the cam was actually being read for a longer duration than would be read by the narrower diameter OEM sensor.
Now we get to the nitty gritty part... I posted this tip because I had an OEM sensor fitted and had the P0340 code come up. Before I learnt how to test the sensor as per my tip of the day link, I bought a Meyle sensor and that is currently fitted in the car. The P0340 code still comes up... So, this weekend I'll do a test on the Meyle sensor, a test on the connections for power, ground and signal lines to the ECU, and finally a test of the original OEM sensor. This I hope will resolve the problem clearly, since there are only 2 areas that can be at fault - 1. the sensor, and 2. the connection of the sensor to the ECU.
To quote the code fault wording on the scanning tool when it showed the fault on my car it showed- "P0340 DME SIGNAL - INLET CAM SENSOR".
That seems to indicate to me that there may be a fault on the signal wire from the distribution box under the intake manifold where the cam sensor wire connects. This is testable with a multimeter, as are the power -positive voltage and the ground line, either of which could also be the culprits. A weak voltage, or poor ground would affect the signal strength as much as a poor connection of the signal wire to DME.
Fortunately i still have the OEM sensor with the narrower diameter tube section, and if I find it is working to spec, I will then be persuaded to look at the connectivity from the distribution box to the DME and the positive and ground connections.
I still have the "old fashion" multimeter with a needle indicator, so went out and bought a digital display model today... with nice big digits so I can see them even without my specs...
As far as the "mooted" larger diameter vs the thinner OEM idea goes, this doesn't make sense to me, and it might well have been a connectivity issue between the sensor plug and the connector at the distribution box. The fact that the Bimmerforum OP, effectively replaced the sensor twice, that simple action may have cleaned away any oxidation or whatever which may have given rise to the problem originally.
As part of my plan this weekend, I'll certainly use some switch cleaner on the connector at the distribution box as well as the connector on the sensor lead, just to make sure that the problem isn't at that contact point.
No doubt that the P0340 fault is causing me issues, because i do experience bouts of weak engine power which I am attributing to the cam sensor... Hopefully my effort will be rewarded and I will have resolved the problem - I'll let you know what the outcome is.
