Suspension Advice

John_B

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Hi folks

I just bought my 1.9 Z3 (sold as a non-runner due to a failed MOT that the prev owner didn't want to deal with) and am currently assembling a list of all the jobs my new project requires, and I think the most sensible ones to start with are a service and the MOT failures so that I can get it safely back on the road before I start worrying about the more trivial things like upgrades and restorations etc.

Along with brakes and tyres, one of the failure points was "NSF Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn" and also an advisory for "OSF Suspension arm ball joint has slight play" - As someone who is wanting to use this as an opportunity to graduate from 'tinkerer' to 'home mechanic', would I be right in assuming these relate to one/both of the 2x ball joints on each lower wishbone arm (such as these)?

And has anyone use The Spares Hut before? These same arms are between £83 and £130 each on E.C.P. This place is selling a pair for £80 :pompus:

Thanks in advance :)
 

t-tony

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Those are the parts you need. The tester should have quoted inner or outer ball joint on the failure.

Tony.
 

John_B

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Those are the parts you need. The tester should have quoted inner or outer ball joint on the failure.

Tony.
Thanks Tony!

it was the previous owner who put it through the MOT, so maybe the tester explained it to them, but the certificate itself just says "suspension arm ball joints" 🤦‍♂️

Cheers 🙂
 

t-tony

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Are the inners classed as "Ball" joints?
Yes, that's exactly what they are. That's why when the rear bushes are totally shot you get such tramlining, because the arm pivots on the inner ball joint.

Tony.
 

t-tony

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mwpe

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The inner ball joints are also replaceable too. Special tool required, personally I can't see the point with complete arms the price they are though.

Tony.
When I replaced mine the cost of the tool and the joint was less than a new arm plus there was no need to remove the whole arm and I still have the tool for future use.
 

John_B

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When I replaced mine the cost of the tool and the joint was less than a new arm plus there was no need to remove the whole arm and I still have the tool for future use.
This is exactly the conundrum I am contemplating - To get new arms or fit new ball joints 🤣
 

DrWong

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Had same conundrum, MOT fail on one ball joint. Replaced entire arm, as cost difference was negligible, saved myself the effort of pressing in/out, and also renewed the other ball joint. I think it'd be reasonable to expect the other ball joint to fail not long after the first (and following the same principle, I ended up replacing the arms on both sides)
 

DrWong

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When I replaced mine the cost of the tool and the joint was less than a new arm plus there was no need to remove the whole arm and I still have the tool for future use.
Just curious if you needed any tracking adjustment after replacing just the one ball joint? I replaced both arms and it threw my tracking totally out of whack. Would be an argument for replacing just the ball joint, if it saves the job of realigning afterwards.
 

mwpe

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No tracking adjustment required, this was about 4 years ago and i have done about 50k miles since then.
 

AntStark

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They are the failures but to be honest the rest won’t be far behind..you might as replace the lot while you are at it ..you know all is good then.
Meyle HD kit is good
 

t-tony

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When I replaced mine the cost of the tool and the joint was less than a new arm plus there was no need to remove the whole arm and I still have the tool for future use.
Chances are you will never need to replace Mike if it lasts as long as the original one did. Ant bought the tool and changed the ones (inner and outer) on his Z3.
To change the inner joint, which has about a 4" stem through the chassis rail, you have to remove the arm from the car which is why I don't see the point.

Tony.
 

John_B

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Nice one, thanks all! It does seem that replacing the entire arms is the sensible approach 😃
 

Andyboy

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Replace the complete wishbones but use good ones such as Febi or Lemforder.
 
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