having read some of the posts i seem to be at that OK stage with it....but i do like my music...i know some of the guys just run with a sub...but im thinking of a more complete sound ...i think a full speaker replacement might be in order
I have done a full conversion, I have the same head unit as you, yes it is a phenomenal piece of kit, in order to get the best out of it though you need to bypass all the BMW speaker wiring (leave it all in situ for when you want to put back stock) and fit new speaker wire runs, then you need to fit some good 100 - 200 rms component speakers in the foot wells and some 100 rms coaxial in the rear.
Alpine then do an inline amp for our head units which plugs straight into the back of the HU it is called a KPT-445, can get them off ebay.
Then you need to fit a sub enclosure, I have built one (version 1) that sits where the HK sub sits and is made from 2 x 5.25" 8ohm hi fi woofers bridged to a fli amp to give 4ohms.
Then all you need to do is set the low and high pass filters on the Alpine HU and you will have an excellent system, demonstrated it to Mint earlier today
If you are worried about cutting the plastics at the rear to accommodate 5.25" speakers then I have a pair of virgin side plastics with HK 3" speakers you could purchase for when you put it back stock.
P.S. I am making version 2 of the sub later this month, so will post the dimensions and a how too
i know its only right to bypass the wiring....how difficult was it to run new.?
as for the sub...didn't some build one that sits between the hoops?..upward facing?
the rest of the speakers i'll look into.....never really looked ICE
spent many years messing about with all sorts of HI FI ...till it got silly...ceramic satellites and playing with reference stuff ...one had to stop when one started trying to clean up the power supply coming into the house !!!
thanks for the advice Rich
ps..i get down your was some times...wouldnt mind a listen..or if we're at the same show give me a nudge
Its easy to run new cables everything goes down the centre tunnel or under the left hand and right hand lower front cowling, same as the oem wiring, easy enough to do, just one thing to remember is when putting in an amp make sure it has short earth lead otherwise you will get ground feedback.
There are a number of options for the sub, but having it play upwards from the hoops is no good when the roof is down. There were two subs fitted to the z3, one being the HK which you can take out the old speaker and with a little mod fit a Kicker CVT into it. I based my sub but did not want to spend 80 - 100 quid on the kicker sub, so went the hi fi root on this and made the sub enclosure out of 12mm MDF, works fine but will get a better fit using 6mm (version2) this enclosure sits where the original sub sat and plays forward into the cabin, providing the fill and base that is missing, and looks OEM only sounds better