Soft top repair (south east)

inkey$

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British Zeds
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95
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Kent & Suffolk
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'01 2.2i M54
Hi all
I need to get my rear screen replaced as its pulling away from each corner and am assuming its the orginal 2001 plastic.
Looking for recommendations for replacement. Im in Sevenoaks, so ideally somewhere south east or an hour or two from me would be great.
Thanks

IMG_5511.jpeg
 

Jam03

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Check carefully before getting too worried about that. Mine looks much worse than yours but is still watertight.
 

inkey$

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Kent & Suffolk
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'01 2.2i M54
Check carefully before getting too worried about that. Mine looks much worse than yours but is still watertight.
Thanks. Yes, its watertight. Just looks horrific! Plus good opportunity to get a shiny clear rear screen.
 

AntStark

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Notice your stitching that holds the zip has started to rot and perish. ..see the missing threads..that’s what started mine leaking not the plastic screen
 

inkey$

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British Zeds
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Kent & Suffolk
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'01 2.2i M54
Notice your stitching that holds the zip has started to rot and perish. ..see the missing threads..that’s what started mine leaking not the plastic screen
Yes, I might need to break out the needle and thread too.
 

Ade33

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Stratford upon Avon
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For what it would cost to get a new rear screen fitted plus looking at the photos of the hood I'd just bite the bullet and take a trip to Swansea
 

inkey$

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Kent & Suffolk
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'01 2.2i M54
For what it would cost to get a new rear screen fitted plus looking at the photos of the hood I'd just bite the bullet and take a trip to Swansea
Its £120 for a new screen to be fitted and the rest of the hood is in pretty good shape.
How much is a new top in Swansea?
 

Ade33

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British Zeds
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Fair enough..When I was looking the minimum cost I could find was £200 to fit a rear screen..Given that my hood was 22 years old I decided to invest £400 at Jack Smiths and very happy with what he has done.
 

inkey$

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'01 2.2i M54
Fair enough..When I was looking the minimum cost I could find was £200 to fit a rear screen..Given that my hood was 22 years old I decided to invest £400 at Jack Smiths and very happy with what he has done.
Just out of interest, what does £400 get you at Jack Smith’s. Might be worth considering as an option.
 

Ade33

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British Zeds
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If you search the forum you will see numerous references to Raymonds at Jack Smiths work and quite a few photos so you can make up your own mind if it's what would suit.. The only problem is he has a long waiting list
 

inkey$

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Duncodin

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Pontrhydyrun
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I replaced my back window quite a few years ago. The new one zipped in good but that flap of material still didn't tuck under the piping/bead.

So even if you so zip a new window in you'll have a nice clear window but don't expect it to solve your problem with that flap of material.

A new roof often comes with stitched in window. Not zipped in. So you won't have that problem with the flap of material.
 

inkey$

Zorg Guru (I)
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Location
Kent & Suffolk
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'01 2.2i M54
I replaced my back window quite a few years ago. The new one zipped in good but that flap of material still didn't tuck under the piping/bead.

So even if you so zip a new window in you'll have a nice clear window but don't expect it to solve your problem with that flap of material.

A new roof often comes with stitched in window. Not zipped in. So you won't have that problem with the flap of material.
There must be a simple way of reseating/sticking the flap back under the piping.
 

Duncodin

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There must be a simple way of reseating/sticking the flap back under the piping.
People do use adhesive. With a thin nozzle they feed it under the piping and then push the fabric flap in. I didn't try though. My flap just didn't have enough material to tuck it in all the way round.

That was around 10 years ago that I replaced the window. Took it out again last year but when I tried to zip it back in much of the stitching just broke. Totally rotten.

I'm in the process of replacing my roof now. On taking it out so much of the material is ripe and just crumbles. I meantion that because if your roof is nigh on 25 years old I think you have a choice.
(1) don't fiddle too much. Accept that it's an old car and just enjoy the car with the roof as it is.
(2) fit a new roof.
 

MartinJ

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Sep 30, 2020
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I'm in the process of fitting a new roof, what a palaver. So far two weekends with son. Too much butyl on first fit. Using tape and liquid butyl. All removed. Top tip. butyl does not like turps and it is easy to remove with Terps. H+S. Wear a mask and decent gloves. I then wash with washing up liquid. This weekend after deciding to fit part 10 (sealing frame) in diagram below. Things looked promising. Fitted it and then tightened bolts around seal frame to hold in place. Only used butyl tape. So this weekend went to fit the whole roof. After removing bolts from the sealing frame. r several hours managed to get roof on after removing the weather seal at top of sealing frame. Tack frame not lining up with the screw holes, (all 18, so back to the drawing board). The Tack Frame attached to the roof looks too far back from the sealing frame. Still trying to figure why? If anyone out there has any tips or has come across this before any advice is welcome. Just to say I have read a number of articles including in the Bentley, and watched you tube videos and read all the relevant items items on the forum about removing and replacing the roof. Still not there. We go again next weekend. (it is dry). Possibly the hardest job I have come across on a Z3.

1721069070023.png
 

inkey$

Zorg Guru (I)
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Points
95
Location
Kent & Suffolk
Model of Z
'01 2.2i M54
I'm in the process of fitting a new roof, what a palaver. So far two weekends with son. Too much butyl on first fit. Using tape and liquid butyl. All removed. Top tip. butyl does not like turps and it is easy to remove with Terps. H+S. Wear a mask and decent gloves. I then wash with washing up liquid. This weekend after deciding to fit part 10 (sealing frame) in diagram below. Things looked promising. Fitted it and then tightened bolts around seal frame to hold in place. Only used butyl tape. So this weekend went to fit the whole roof. After removing bolts from the sealing frame. r several hours managed to get roof on after removing the weather seal at top of sealing frame. Tack frame not lining up with the screw holes, (all 18, so back to the drawing board). The Tack Frame attached to the roof looks too far back from the sealing frame. Still trying to figure why? If anyone out there has any tips or has come across this before any advice is welcome. Just to say I have read a number of articles including in the Bentley, and watched you tube videos and read all the relevant items items on the forum about removing and replacing the roof. Still not there. We go again next weekend. (it is dry). Possibly the hardest job I have come across on a Z3.

View attachment 309373
Maximum kudos points for even attempting such a thing! Good luck 🤞🏼
 

Duncodin

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Pontrhydyrun
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Z3 M44
Doing mine today too. I've showed these pictures on my rebody thread. It is a z3 just got a GRP 507 style body kit on it.

Had the sealing frame out yesterday and put back in with fresh butyl. Put the tack bow on top and bolted it in. No roof at that stage Just the tack bow and all the screws to pull the sealing frame in tight.

This morning removed the tack bow again. I've replaced the elastic parts of the tension straps so had to staple the rear straps to the tack bow.

Then layed the new roof over the frame and stapled that to the tack bow.
20240715_161545.jpg


Then dropped the tack bow into the well and climbed into the car to put the screws in.

Took a bit of fiddling with the tack bow - it was jammed up in the right side drain box so all the holes were off centre. Scratched my head and had a cup of tea. Once I noticed that the bow was jammed and wiggled it free it popped into place and centred itself and all the holes lined up nice.

20240715_192743.jpg


I'm not finished. Still lots to do.
 

MartinJ

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Thanks for the post. mmm I had the issue with the jamming on both left and right drain boxes independently of each other. Did manage with the gentle use of levers to work past it and tack band did drop into place but still not quite lined up. Your post has given me food for thought. Managed to get a bolt in on offside but the long centre bolt are just not quite there they engage with the holes but will not quite screw in. . I think the butyl seal strip is pushing it off. I think once I can get a few bolts in to compress the strip, things might get a little easier. Still, WIP.
 

Duncodin

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Points
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Location
Pontrhydyrun
Model of Z
Z3 M44
Thanks for the post. mmm I had the issue with the jamming on both left and right drain boxes independently of each other. Did manage with the gentle use of levers to work past it and tack band did drop into place but still not quite lined up. Your post has given me food for thought. Managed to get a bolt in on offside but the long centre bolt are just not quite there they engage with the holes but will not quite screw in. . I think the butyl seal strip is pushing it off. I think once I can get a few bolts in to compress the strip, things might get a little easier. Still, WIP.
The bolt hole in the dead center of the tack bow is the only round one. You need to get a screw in there. But not tight. Just get it in a few turns so you know the bow is centered.

That middle bolt hole I couldn't figure it out. Lifted the bow and lowered it but just couldn't find the hole. After a cuppa and a head scratch I climbed back in and reached along behind the seat over to the left side and could feel that the tack bow was well up against the sealing frame where it should be. Reached over to the right side and felt there was a huge gap behind the tack bow. I could get my fingers behind it. Can't see anything with the roof in the way. Just felt it so knew the bow wasn't in the drain box properly. Bit of fiddling and it eventually went in.

That one round screw hole in the middle is first. Get that one inba few turns before any others. Put the rest of the screws in working from the center out. Not tight. Just a few turns.

That's as much as I did with the screws. I then started pulling the roof over the frame and deciding how much flap to pull over the front.

I left the back screws just half in so that the butyl wasn't fully squashed so I could get that back bow back out again if I really really needed to.

That's basically where I am now. I'm confident the front is in the right place so today I'll tighten up the tackbow. Hoping for a warm day so the butyl squashes down nice.

Just been outside. Not much sun but roof feels nice and warm.

Not fully closed yet. Still have some work to do around the sides. You can see in the photo that the front corners aren't fully tensioned yet. Once I have the side flaps fixed I'll close the roof and let it sit for a week in the sun. If we get any sun 🤷‍♂️

20240716_125135.jpg


Another thing I wanted to mention is the rear roof bow. The one above the back window. When you get to the stage of putting some tension into the material make sure that back roof bow is directly under the stitched seam. It really wants to set itself just behind the stitching. I was concentrating on the front and never noticed where that bow was. I left it over night with the bow behind the seam and this morning that panel just above the window had a nasty ugly lump. Once I folded the roof back and got the bow in the right place and a bit of heat I pulled that lump back out and it looks good now.

20240716_125151.jpg
 
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