Slave cylinder

[Guinn]

Just wondering...is it really so difficult to replace a slave cylinder? I've yried about every repair shop here, including a german autoworks. and nobody wants to touch it. I would do it myself, but I have a lack of work place, and a touch of lazy. I will probably end up doing it myself, but is there some terrible secret to the job no one will tell me?

 

[Duncodin]

I must confess that I've never looked closely at the z slave cylinder but I've replaced and refurbed on many other cars and never had a problem.

So I'd be very interested to know what the problem is that stops people wanting to touch it.

What wrong with yours? Leaking? Does it need replacing? If it's just a tiny leak and no water/rust has gotten inside then maybe just the seals need replacing. (Do they still do that nowadays)

 

[colb]

I think its a bit of a mare to bleed it, some unbolt it to carry out the bleeding to get all of the air out of it but then your faced with keeping the actuator pin from being pushed out when you apply pressure to the pedal when bleeding so that has to be secured before you start bleeding. I think the point of doing it off the mounting is that you can turn the cylinder to assist getting the air out of it as you bleed it. No doubt someone who has done this will be along to explain more.

 

[NZ00Z3]

Yes, I've fitted a new slave cylinder.

@colb has nailed the 2 issues.

Bleeding the Slave Cylinder
Best method is to:

• Remove it from the transmission but still have it plumbed in.
• Measure the length of the push rod sticking out. If its a new slave, then take the measurement off the old slave.
• Turn it upside down. This puts the inside end of the bleed drilling a the top to capture the maximum amount of air.
• Push the push rod against something hard so that it is all the way in. This reduces the amount of fluid and air in the cylinder.
• While holding it like so, get your mate to push the pedal gently, while you use your 3rd hand to bleed the air out of the system.
• When there is no more air coming out, let the push rod go.

Now, this is where people get into problems. I learnt the hard way. The internal spring has pushed the push rod out only part way. You fit the slave and think all is well. Then you press the clutch and nothing happens, so you press it again and hear a tinkle tinkle of the slave internal parts falling into the inside of the bellhousing. The push rod was not engaged with the clutch fork, so it shot off on it's own trajectory and missed it's target. Time to go fishing with one of those "magnets on a flexi stick" things.

• Get your mate to gently push the clutch while you measure the push rod and get it to the measurement you took right at the beginning.
• Line up the slave on the studs and watch to see that the pushrod has hit it's spot on the clutch fork. The slave should be about 10mm off being fully flush fitted. This is good and shows that things are correct.
• Bolt it in.
• Give the clutch one (1) push. if there is no clutch plate resistance, don't press it a second time. Take he salve off and refit.