E89 She arrived... dead battery, boot locked, no circuit / connectivity to battery

BigCL

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Happy New Year all!
So she arrived on 31 December, very un-elegantly scraped off the transporter... luckily the front left wheel hung on to the car, so no further damage was inflicted.

I already have a problem - the battery is dead and there seems to be no connection to any main 12v battery in the boot / truck - my tester is not even showing zero volts! I've heard of the huge trouble to open the boot with no power, so that's my first task. My big concern is that the alarm will go off when I eventually get into the boot and get a new battery connected, as the key fob I have may have lost its programming. How long does the alarm go for - does it ever stop? Is there a way of hushing it? You can see the car is open, but I don't know if that was by the steel key or by the fob - if by key then presumably the alarm will blare as soon as it has power?

Also, the there is an "exploding" positive terminal on the battery, does that prevent the car from being jump started from the bonnet power points?

Also, clearly the car has the pedestrian protection and has fired the bonnet hinges up - can these exploded hinge attachments be removed (temporarily) so that it shuts better?

PS Someone helpfully took out any service documents and the wheel locking key (unless it is in the boot). She was previously registered as DR59... so it would be great if someone on here recognised it.

Pic attached - the scrape marks were made by the ramps from the transporter.

I'm happy to start a thread about the repairs - what's the best way to do that on here?
 

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t-tony

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Many people don't carry the "Book pack" in their cars so the original owner may have it if you're lucky,

You can start a progress thread for your car here,


Be aware that because people are genuinely interested in what you are doing you may well get some comments which may appear "off topic" . If that happens and it bothers you then say so at the outset, otherwise accept it as part and parcel of genuine interest in your build. I look forward to seeing how it progresses.
Sorry I can't help re the flat battery issue but I'm sure one of our E89 owners will be able to assist soon. I would've thought that you would be able to jump or charge from the terminals under the bonnet or there would be no point in them being fitted.

Tony.
 

DomiMik

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Also, the there is an "exploding" positive terminal on the battery, does that prevent the car from being jump started from the bonnet power points?
No need to worry about that, this device gets activated in case the control units register an accident, nothing else.
See here for further details:
 

BigCL

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No need to worry about that, this device gets activated in case the control units register an accident, nothing else.
See here for further details:
Thanks for your reply - does the activation of the BST prevent the car from being jump started from the bonnet power points?
 

DomiMik

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Okay, i think I got your question wrong.
Jump starting should work nonetheless, although it's not advisable to run the engine when the battery isn't connected as far as I know.
What you can try though is to bridge the car (is that the right word in english...?) without starting it, this might let you open the boot.
 

colb

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You should be able to apply 12v jumpleads to the underbonnet connections to provide power to the front of the car, ignition and starter feeds, As stated earlier don't crank the car without having the battery connected in the boot until you check the battery is connected. 12v connected on the jump start posts under the bonnet should enable the boot to be opened so you can check the battery connection. Since the car had an impact check the safety connection on the + battery connection hasn't blown to disconnect the connection. Once a good battery is connected use a meter on the under bonnet connection to see if 12v is getting to it from the battery. As to the alarm, if it activates it should be silenced once the ignition key is inserted and ignition turned on, the car should recognise its a puka key being used and silence the alarm. Once power is restored it should be simple enough to reset the key fob functions by using the setting functions on each of the keys using a sequence of button pushes, thread on here with how to do this if you search, here is how its done on an E85
BMW Z4 - Key Remote Programming

Three methods to try:

Method 1:

1. Working from within the vehicle and with the doors shut

2. Turn ignition to position 1 and back to off within 5 seconds.

3. Remove the key from ignition and press and hold the unlock button for 15 seconds during this time press the key lock button 3 times within 5 seconds.

4. Release both buttons.

5. Doors will lock and unlock to show correct programming has occurred.



Method 2:

To do this procedure you need to have one working key and one key that needs to be programmed.

1) Get in and close all doors.

2) Turn on the ignition and turn off quickly. (No more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds.

3) Remove the 1st key.

4) Hold the key up near your left shoulder (this is so it is closer to the remote receiver antenna.

5) Hold down the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times. Release the unlock button and the doors lock which confirms the operation.

6) Quickly repeat steps 4 & 5 for key #2 etc.

If it does not work, try doing the keys in opposite order. Key 2 then key 1, vs 1 then 2.



Method 3:

Alternate if you do not have a working remote

1. Turn key to position 1 five times very quickly 2. Remove key 3. Hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times, release unlock button.

4. If you have another key do the same button pressing within 30 seconds 5. Turn on ignition to finalise.

PLEASE NOTE: This programming procedure programs the remote control part of the key. Any transponder chip for the immobiliser (starting of car) will not be programmed and must be done by a specialist.
 

colb

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Once you get into the car and power restored best get a code reader on it and give it a scan to see whats sitting in there before you do anything else, may well be some codes there in relation to the prang its had with regard to airbags and stuff. After that then give it a go at starting it see how it runs and re read the codes, clear them and see what comes back when run again.
 

BigCL

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Dec 23, 2020
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Z4
You should be able to apply 12v jumpleads to the underbonnet connections to provide power to the front of the car, ignition and starter feeds, As stated earlier don't crank the car without having the battery connected in the boot until you check the battery is connected. 12v connected on the jump start posts under the bonnet should enable the boot to be opened so you can check the battery connection. Since the car had an impact check the safety connection on the + battery connection hasn't blown to disconnect the connection. Once a good battery is connected use a meter on the under bonnet connection to see if 12v is getting to it from the battery. As to the alarm, if it activates it should be silenced once the ignition key is inserted and ignition turned on, the car should recognise its a puka key being used and silence the alarm. Once power is restored it should be simple enough to reset the key fob functions by using the setting functions on each of the keys using a sequence of button pushes, thread on here with how to do this if you search, here is how its done on an E85
BMW Z4 - Key Remote Programming

Three methods to try:
Method 1:
1. Working from within the vehicle and with the doors shut
2. Turn ignition to position 1 and back to off within 5 seconds.
3. Remove the key from ignition and press and hold the unlock button for 15 seconds during this time press the key lock button 3 times within 5 seconds.
4. Release both buttons.
5. Doors will lock and unlock to show correct programming has occurred.
Method 2:
To do this procedure you need to have one working key and one key that needs to be programmed.
1) Get in and close all doors.
2) Turn on the ignition and turn off quickly. (No more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds.
3) Remove the 1st key.
4) Hold the key up near your left shoulder (this is so it is closer to the remote receiver antenna.
5) Hold down the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times. Release the unlock button and the doors lock which confirms the operation.
6) Quickly repeat steps 4 & 5 for key #2 etc.
If it does not work, try doing the keys in opposite order. Key 2 then key 1, vs 1 then 2.
Method 3:
Alternate if you do not have a working remote
1. Turn key to position 1 five times very quickly 2. Remove key 3. Hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times, release unlock button.
4. If you have another key do the same button pressing within 30 seconds 5. Turn on ignition to finalise.
PLEASE NOTE: This programming procedure programs the remote control part of the key. Any transponder chip for the immobiliser (starting of car) will not be programmed and must be done by a specialist.
Brilliant instructions... many thanks Colb!
 

BigCL

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Hi all - update - I attached jump leads and tried the remote key to open the boot - nothing. The remote key fob didn't open the car doors either. So I assumed dead key battery - so I went to swap it out. Turns out the car has one of the damn soldered-in rechargeable batteries (i.e. non-comfort access I believe). I cannot recharge it because the car is dead. BUT - I also can't see a slot in the dashboard for the key to fit into either, to be able to charge!! So sorry I am such a NEWBIE !
 

Andyboy

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Jun 2, 2019
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Nothing wrong with the key. They battery Plus terminal has probably blown meaning that you could attach ten batteries via jump leads and still no power will get anywhere. You need to get the car door open using the key blade in the key fob and then access the boot area via the ski hatch. Once in (you'll need some BFI I expect) you can activate the manual emergency boot release with a coat hanger - apparently it's very fiddly.

Until you replace the battery terminal, nothing will work. Including the electronic boot release.
 

BigCL

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Nothing wrong with the key. They battery Plus terminal has probably blown meaning that you could attach ten batteries via jump leads and still no power will get anywhere. You need to get the car door open using the key blade in the key fob and then access the boot area via the ski hatch. Once in (you'll need some BFI I expect) you can activate the manual emergency boot release with a coat hanger - apparently it's very fiddly.

Until you replace the battery terminal, nothing will work. Including the electronic boot release.
I read that when the battery "+" lead blows it leaves another wire connected, with connections to door locks, windows.
 

Andyboy

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You still need to get into the boot. I've bought stuff from Copart with the terminal blown and nothing works. The boot release pull is on the passenger side of the lid interior, triangular shaped.
 

BigCL

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You still need to get into the boot. I've bought stuff from Copart with the terminal blown and nothing works. The boot release pull is on the passenger side of the lid interior, triangular shaped.
OK cheers Andy - I'll have a look at that (I think I have to punch my way through and fish around for a few hours). I also heard that UK cars don't have the pull cord, so that will be even more fun.
 

Nodzed

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There's no manual boot release on UK e89s that I am aware of.

On the front of the alternator beneath the multi plug you will see a nut (if it has a plastic cap you need to remove it) Strip both ends of a long piece of thick wire, connect this to a jumper cable. Connect the jumper to the positive of a charged battery, (or charger) other jumper cable to negative of the same battery and to earth on the e89. Touch the live end of the wire to the nut on the alternator and this will power the car enough to open the boot regardless of whether the battery + terminal safety break has activated, its powering via the alternator not the battery supply, so a back door if you like. Best have someone else to activate the fob as you will have your hands full. You may have to get access to the alternator from beneath the car.

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BigCL

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There's no manual boot release on UK e89s that I am aware of.

On the front of the alternator beneath the multi plug you will see a nut (if it has a plastic cap you need to remove it) Strip both ends of a long piece of thick wire, connect this to a jumper cable. Connect the jumper to the positive of a charged battery, (or charger) other jumper cable to negative of the same battery and to earth on the e89. Touch the live end of the wire to the nut on the alternator and this will power the car enough to open the boot regardless of whether the battery + terminal safety break has activated, its powering via the alternator not the battery supply, so a back door if you like. Best have someone else to activate the fob as you will have your hands full. You may have to get access to the alternator from beneath the car.
Thanks Nodzed - something to try as soon as we get above zero degrees here (Coventry).
 

ASA

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Hi guys. I am new to this website. Came across it after searching online as I am facing the exact same problem.

Things I tried already:
- Jump starting from the front (Using 4 different jump leads and starter pack and different batteries/cars)
- I tried connecting jump lead to alternator and negative to chassis (No sign of any power)
- No Ski access and mine is a also a UK version so I don’t expect to find an emergency release in boot if I brake the clips and centre hatch

I had the same issue with an E92 couple years ago. Only solution was finding the right wire that was going into the junction box and giving it 12 volts and the boot opened. I remember I followed a thread online. Tried to do the same this time but the car is different. Anyone has any ideas as to how? Which colour wires or any other suggestions?

any help is much appreciated.

P.S. BigCL I’m in Manchester and just bought a damaged E89 will be working on it at home. It would be nice to stay in touch and Lear from each other.
 

Nodzed

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- I tried connecting jump lead to alternator and negative to chassis (No sign of any power)
Hi did you connect to the correct bolt on the alternator, its quite specific apparently?
 

BigCL

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Hi guys. I am new to this website. Came across it after searching online as I am facing the exact same problem.

Things I tried already:
- Jump starting from the front (Using 4 different jump leads and starter pack and different batteries/cars)
- I tried connecting jump lead to alternator and negative to chassis (No sign of any power)
- No Ski access and mine is a also a UK version so I don’t expect to find an emergency release in boot if I brake the clips and centre hatch

I had the same issue with an E92 couple years ago. Only solution was finding the right wire that was going into the junction box and giving it 12 volts and the boot opened. I remember I followed a thread online. Tried to do the same this time but the car is different. Anyone has any ideas as to how? Which colour wires or any other suggestions?

any help is much appreciated.

P.S. BigCL I’m in Manchester and just bought a damaged E89 will be working on it at home. It would be nice to stay in touch and Lear from each other.
Will definitely keep in touch. What damage does yours have? I was thinking of doing some youtube videos when it gets above zero degrees.

I think if we found the right wire for the boot lock solenoid (ideally at the fuse box) 12v should cause it to open? Just can't find the fuse on diagrams... Good luck!
 
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