Replacing rear shock top mounts

[elky]

So there is some squeaking coming the rear right interior, my guess is it is the shock top mount. My question is how feasible is it to replace rear shock top mounts without removing the shock completely?
I am fairly capable but since I will be doing it in my apartment garage I don't want to risk being without a car...

Can they be replaced by simply unscrewing first the center bolt, then the two bolts holding the shock and then pulling down the shock without actually removing it completely? Has anyone attempted such a quick fix?

I found this video but I wanted to verify first if anyone has experience with it.

 

[Duncodin]

Undoing the top mount is, by far, the biggest part of the job. If you undo the top then you may as well do another 2 minutes work and undo the one bolt at the bottom and take the shock absorber out to give it a good look over.

 

[Ianmc]

As I recall, rear shock mounts come in different thicknesses. Worth replacing both sides at the same time.

 

[Nodzed]

Definitley replace both sides and while you're at it add a set of reinforcing plates while it's apart, circa £20 for 2.

 

[Pingu]

If you are interested. Original supplier to BMW was Lemforder. They are now part of ZF.

If the BMW part number is 33521137972, your part is on this cross-reference list...

BMW Cross Reference List

docs.google.com

 

[elky]

If you are interested. Original supplier to BMW was Lemforder. They are now part of ZF.

If the BMW part number is 33521137972, your part is on this cross-reference list...

BMW Cross Reference List

docs.google.com

Thanks for the info! But I have my mind on a set of powerflex with reinforcement plates for both socks.

 

[elky]

Undoing the top mount is, by far, the biggest part of the job. If you undo the top then you may as well do another 2 minutes work and undo the one bolt at the bottom and take the shock absorber out to give it a good look over.

Eventually when I have the money I will be replacing all shocks but for now I just wanted to fix the top mounts. True but the issue is that in the apartment building garage I am not sure I have the space to undo the bottom.

Do you reckon, if I undo the top mount I can then push down the shock by hand and remove the mount as in the video?

 

[Nodzed]

Eventually when I have the money I will be replacing all shocks but for now I just wanted to fix the top mounts. True but the issue is that in the apartment building garage I am not sure I have the space to undo the bottom.

Do you reckon, if I undo the top mount I can then push down the shock by hand and remove the mount as in the video?

If the shocks are old then yes very easily, if they are in good condition they could be hard to compress but doable.

 

[Duncodin]

Do you reckon, if I undo the top mount I can then push down the shock by hand and remove the mount as in the video?

You're going to need room under the car to work to push the shock down and replace the top mount. I don't understand why undoing the bottom mount would need more room.

But you need to do it how you want. I can't say if it's possible because it would never occur to me to try it.

 

[Andyboy]

It's easy enough. In the boot* slacken the top nut first, remove the two 13mm nuts and with the rear jacked up, push the damper (shock absorber) down and replace the top mount with a new one. The wheel can stay on.

Bear in mind that there is/should be a big washer under the top mount to spread the load. Number 6 in the pic. Many have rusted away and without it the damper will just punch straight through the top mount.

*well, the storage area behind the seats where the hood goes.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

You may find it easier to take out at least one seat before trying to change the top mounts. It's a tight fit in there.

 

[Andyboy]

Do it with the hood up (closed), seat powered forward.

The top mount can't be accessed from the boot (I was thinking E36) but from under the grey carpet behind the seats.

 

[elky]

It's easy enough. In the boot* slacken the top nut first, remove the two 13mm nuts and with the rear jacked up, push the damper (shock absorber) down and replace the top mount with a new one. The wheel can stay on.

Bear in mind that there is/should be a big washer under the top mount to spread the load. Number 6 in the pic. Many have rusted away and without it the damper will just punch straight through the top mount.

*well, the storage area behind the seats where the hood goes.

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation and the image!!! Sounds very do-able so perhaps I will give it a try now in April