Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?

jonco

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I have the 3G EWS system with the old `housebrick' remote.

Yesterday remote would not dis-arm system - led not illuminating on remote. Opened door with key and silenced audible alarm under the bonnet but then left with hazard lights operating every time I opened a door,boot,bonnet or acoustic sensors triggered as system still armed.

Started to look at previous topics on shorting reset or fuse removal but instead changed battery in remote and basically fiddled about a bit and `hey presto' it started working.

Went into my garage this morning and found car unlocked and alarms disabled - definitely armed and locked last night and remote was in house all night :confused:

Tried to enable alarm with remote but nothing. Noticed that LED on remote continually flickering - goes steady when either button held down but no effect on car.

So do I buy new housebrick (OEM 82 92 9 404 882)- dealer quoted as ~£52 plus coding £70+? or could it be the receiver and I am wasting my money. Any way of checking?

Cheers
 

Aceman

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I managed to get a remote off ebay and put a new case on it. Just reprogrammed it to the car and job sorted. I think it only cost me a tenner in total.
 

hard top

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This old chestnut again. Jonco, you might have to dismantle your glove box from your dashboard to get to the module and reset it.
I could not be bothered and quite happily lock and unlock my car with the key, like in the "Good Old Days"......................;)
 

jonco

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Thanks for the comments guys. I have cleaned remote buttons today and have got rid of flickering light but remote and receiver are not communicating - fuses are ok - looked at error codes through INPA but not telling me anything. May have to dismantle glove box to reset as HT suggests.
HT - I remember the `good old days' but unfortunately the insurers load your premium if it's not working - don't know by how much but it's probably worth sorting.
BMG - I agree - don't mind buying a new one but need to make sure remote transmitter is the actual problem.
Aceman - How do you re-program? - is there a DIY guide I'm missing somewhere? Thought Imay be able to do it through INPA but don't understand it enough.
Cheers
 

Aceman

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Aceman

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If that doesn't work then it is definitely a glove box out job which isn't that difficult a job just a bit fiddly. Let me know if you need to do this and I will try and find the instructions on how to do this as I have them somewhere.
 

jonco

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If that doesn't work then it is definitely a glove box out job which isn't that difficult a job just a bit fiddly. Let me know if you need to do this and I will try and find the instructions on how to do this as I have them somewhere.
Thanks but sorry didn't work - LED does not go out. Would appreciate the instructions if you have them. The battery I changed was the 12v - what would the symptoms be if the Lithium has failed.
 

jonco

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:thankyou: Sorted and working again- Thanks for all the advice - would never have found the switch head - was very difficult to see even with box out. Somebody had obviously been in there before - assortment of screws and a few missing. Also found a 40amp fuse only partially engaged, However when I looked it up it seems to be for auxillary fan - which I don't have.
 

Aceman

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Great stuff Jonco so glad you got it sorted.:party:
 
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